What steel to try next,(not what’s best).

P

Psy223

Joined
Dec 17, 2018
Messages
107
when it became apparent that I was sliding down this slippery slope, and believing that variety is the spice of life, I set some guidelines for myself.
1. No knives I wouldn’t use
2. $100 limit
3. Made in America
4. No duplicates
5. Different steels
Number two quickly turned into $100ish.
Number three became “ok, no China!” And then, “ so the Keen is made in China?”
Number four became unless it’s s really good deal, or if it satisfies number 5.
Which brings me to the question- in an effort to try different steels and figure out what I like what steel should I try next?
I have, in no particular order: knives in 420, Aus8, 14c28n, 8cr13, D2, and cpm154, andH1.
I hope to buy 3-4 knives this year in the $100ish range.
Recommendations? I’m not scared to sharpen regularly or to send it in for manufacturers sharpening periodically.
I use a knife daily, but not in a rough or extreme way.
Thanks
 
At that price range and the your list, I would probably go for 1095, 440A, 440C, VG-10, S30V, and S35V next. Be aware that different manufacturers have different success rates with certain steels from my experience. For example, I have a Chinese made Boker Urban Trapper in VG-10 that does not take nearly the edge that the Kizer does. Both are sub-$100 knives.
 
Matrix Copper in D2
Dividend in M390
TRM Atlas in S35VN
Native in S35VN
ZT0350 in S30V
 
S35VN, M390

You can get some LC200N in the Native 5 Salt for just over $100
 
At only 100$ your limited in the available steels. Spyderco is number one in offering many variations in steel types. They do make a fair amount of knives with more affordable handles with unique super steels. But even so they often range above 100$ or slightly.

In any case, if you can find one on the exchange or the bay, spyderco urban in k390 is a good steel to try. Was fairly affordable new but it's also a non locking knife. It's made in Italy but I think if you limit yourself to USA only your missing out on the wide array of steels spyderco has to offer.

Spyderco Chaparral Lightweight In xhp steel is a great knife overall and it's made in Taiwan. It's under 100 but it's a quality backlock knife. Great blade geometry too.

Spyderco Delica in various steels is made in Japan. Usually under 100 depending on the variety.

Spyderco UK pen knife comes in different steels too, here's one in s110v for 100 and USA made.
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-UK-Penknife-Lightweight--50020

The spyderco native light weight series is made in a few different steels. For at or around 100. Also made in USA.



Benchmade Mini grips in s30v are around 100 and USA made. Look on the exchange for lower prices. Benchmade are making a change to s30v instead of 154cm as the base steel, so some changes and sales may be happening in the mean time.

Kershaw has one or two models in m390, USA made and under 100.

Buck knives as some models in different steels for around 100. also check out skblades a vendor here who offers sprint runs for buck knives in different steels. They range in prices, a few just over 100 but around there give or take.

Check out three rivers manufacturing. A usa company that offers an assortment of really great knives in different steels and prices. They have one in 20cv a m390 analog steel for good prices. I forget the exact price but it's around your price range. Probably a bit more but it's worth it for the slicey blade.

As mentioned a few times... Check out the bladeforums exchange. Lots of good deals on good knives at discounted prices for used or LNIB knives.
 
Psy223 said:
when it became apparent that I was sliding down this slippery slope, and believing that variety is the spice of life, I set some guidelines for myself.
1. No knives I wouldn’t use
2. $100 limit
3. Made in America
4. No duplicates
5. Different steels
Number two quickly turned into $100ish.
Number three became “ok, no China!” And then, “ so the Keen is made in China?”
Number four became unless it’s s really good deal, or if it satisfies number 5.
Which brings me to the question- in an effort to try different steels and figure out what I like what steel should I try next?
I have, in no particular order: knives in 420, Aus8, 14c28n, 8cr13, D2, and cpm154, andH1.
I hope to buy 3-4 knives this year in the $100ish range.
Recommendations? I’m not scared to sharpen regularly or to send it in for manufacturers sharpening periodically.
I use a knife daily, but not in a rough or extreme way.
Thanks
Click to expand...

If you’re finding that you’re turning into abit of a steel junky here are some flavours anyone in your position should try. M390 (or 20cv or cts204p), M4(!!!!), 3v, s110v/s90v.

Some like m390 can be found on relatively cheaper options like an m390 kershaw dividend. Others I suggest you do some shopping on the used section of this forum. You can find some great stuff for alot off retail price.
 
I’d say get:

1. A good tool steel/non stainless like 3v, m4, 4v, k390, 10v, cru-wear or hap40. They usually have pretty great edge retention and toughness compared to their stainless counterparts. They’re my favorite area of steel because of the way they take an edge.

2. A s30v, s35vn, cts-xhp or lc200n steel. Good all around steel, not really great at anything, but good at everything. (Except lc200n which is fully stainless and very tough, apparently)

3. A m390, cpm 20cv, cts 204p class steel. They’re more stainless and have theoretically better edge retention than the s30v but a little less tough. Many consider it the “best” edc steel.

4. A high wear resistant steel. Think s110v, zdp-189, maxamet, s90v.

With one from each of those four classes, I think you’d have a good sampling of what the industry has to offer.

As for which knives to get, I’d say get some frn Spyderco sprints as they come out, or used if you can get them cheap. You could get a manly wasp in s90v pretty cheap, a chaparral lightweight in xhp, a trm neutron in m390 (over your price point unfortunately), and a Spyderco urban in k390, which come up on the used market occasionally. The manly and the urban are both slipjoints, for what it’s worth.
 
If you’re hell bend on the budget, you’re going to be limited on the steel choices also. That may turn into a buy a knife you may not use or doesn’t suit your taste just because you want to try a different steel.
Trying a steel isn’t the same as owning a knife you like and will use to experience the full potential of any given steel. IMO, it’s better to have a knife you’ll use for a long time than have one that has the flavor of the month that won’t get used.
If it were me, I’d increase my budget and buy fewer knives that I’d use enjoyably.
 
1095 is a must-do.

I can't imagine how you don't have a VG10 yet.

The others I like aren't available for 100-ish.

(Maxamet, LC200N)
 
Thanks for all the feedback.
I am putting a “watchlist” together and and keeping an eye on the exchange. There are several knives out there that I find appealing,(understatement is a life skill), and I’m going to try to wait on/budget for them and grab them when a good sample shows up.
 
Check out some of the Bucks at SK blades. There is a folding hunter with a cpm20cv. Over budget some, but USA made. I have a Microtech socom elite in m390 (analog of 20cv) and have enjoyed the steel. Not crazy to sharpen and holds a nice edge.
 
I have picked up a Kizer in S35vn off the exchange. Received it yesterday and will be putting it in the pocket today. The blade is a cut above any of my other knives,(bah dum tsh). That is likely due to the superior sharpening skills of the previous owner versus my clumsy attempts.
 
I have to ask, what roles do you plan for these knives?

Buying a new knife just to try a different steel can be fun but the knife could easily collect dust in you safe if it does not meet your other needs. So, what gaps do you currently have in you knife line up? Do you still need a large fixed blade like a machete? Bushcraft knife? Rescue knife? What? This info could really help us out with what we recommend.
 
Great question. Most of my knife needs are filled. I have a few fixed blades, including machete, and skinners. My concern here is specifically regarding the “pocketknife” I have always had VERY cheap pocketknives because I had a history of losing them. I bought a Leek last May and it was the first time I spent more than $10 on a pocketknife. I carried that Leek everyday for six months and used it almost everyday for typical, low impact kind of stuff. Opening plastic packages,zip ties,boxes, tape.

In November I felt that six months without losing it earned enough trust to put a new knife on my Christmas list. I started looking for a knife I liked and was immediately overwhelmed by the options. That’s what led to the guidelines in my op. More of a way to limit what I was searching through rather than searching for.

I’ve purchased six knives since November. Three of them off the exchange here. This gives me a total of 10 knives that I can carry on a daily basis. A rat2 in D2 has been my most frequently carried over the last month.

What I’ve found is I like folding knives with smooth lines. It needs to open one handed because I frequently need to cut things that I’m already holding and can’t put down. I don’t yet own a knife with a flipper, all speedsafe,autos, or thumb studs so far,(this appears to be a glaring omission) A three - three and a half inch blade length is about right. I have liner lock, frame lock, and back lock knives with no significant preference. I like thinner frames due to medium hands and dainty fingers. I appreciate drop point, and Warnecliff (no idea if that’s right, autocorrect hated it). I don’t find tanto appealing, but wouldn’t rule one out. Thanks again. I hope this helps you, help me.
 
Tool steel - 1095 (loving my traditionals in that steel and it is fun to control the patina)
Stainless - CTS-XHP

Editted to add: Thin knife in CTS-XHP = Cold Steel Code4, I love mine
 
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Psy223 said:
Great question. Most of my knife needs are filled. I have a few fixed blades, including machete, and skinners. My concern here is specifically regarding the “pocketknife” I have always had VERY cheap pocketknives because I had a history of losing them. I bought a Leek last May and it was the first time I spent more than $10 on a pocketknife. I carried that Leek everyday for six months and used it almost everyday for typical, low impact kind of stuff. Opening plastic packages,zip ties,boxes, tape.

In November I felt that six months without losing it earned enough trust to put a new knife on my Christmas list. I started looking for a knife I liked and was immediately overwhelmed by the options. That’s what led to the guidelines in my op. More of a way to limit what I was searching through rather than searching for.

I’ve purchased six knives since November. Three of them off the exchange here. This gives me a total of 10 knives that I can carry on a daily basis. A rat2 in D2 has been my most frequently carried over the last month.

What I’ve found is I like folding knives with smooth lines. It needs to open one handed because I frequently need to cut things that I’m already holding and can’t put down. I don’t yet own a knife with a flipper, all speedsafe,autos, or thumb studs so far,(this appears to be a glaring omission) A three - three and a half inch blade length is about right. I have liner lock, frame lock, and back lock knives with no significant preference. I like thinner frames due to medium hands and dainty fingers. I appreciate drop point, and Warnecliff (no idea if that’s right, autocorrect hated it). I don’t find tanto appealing, but wouldn’t rule one out. Thanks again. I hope this helps you, help me.
Click to expand...

The Kershaw leek is a nice knife. So is their Blur.

After reading your comments above I would recommend that you consider the following knives based on ergonomics and lock types:

1. Ka-Bar Dozier #4065. It is a back lock with FRN scales. Instead of a thumb stud, it features a thumb hole. You can also get it with a stud under a different model number. 3 inch blade. Light weight. $20-25 dollars. Taiwan Made.

2. Bencemade 531. Designed by Mel Pardue. This could be a great knife for you because it is thin and light weight (2.1 oz.). It offers G-10 scales, a 3 1/4 inch blade (154 CM) but S30v steel should standard shortly. It is priced a little above your price point but you can find them used for a fair price. I bought mine used for less than one C note. In excellent shape I might add. Made in the US.

3. Benchmade 535 Bugout. It is less weight than the 531 and offers nicer hardware. Much better ergonomics than the 531, too. Very, very comfortable knife. Scales are FRN and some people whine about that. Don't worry about it at all. Once again, 3 1/4 inch blade (S30v steel this time). This will replace my 531 when the time comes. Amazing knife. Street prices start at $115 and can go up depending upon options. Once again, made in the US.

4. Spyderco D'Allara 3. With a blade almost 3 1/2 inches (once again, CPM S30v steel), this knife is a little bigger. Released in 2017 this knife offers G-10 scales and stainless liners so it is also a little more weight. But, it is balanced extremely well and the weight really is not an issue. Rides surprisingly well in your pocket, too. Bronze washers and BBL lock (kind of like an Axis Lock). Slight learning curve with the BBL lock, though. This knife was designed by the legendary Sal; Glesser as a test bed for a FRN model. Spyderco just lowered the price from two hundred dollars down to $139. When they are gone, they're gone and prices will start to rise. Manufactured in Seki City, Japan. A city known world wide for their knives and fine craftsmanship.

If you will note, I ignored your price limits, steel request and focused on ergonomics and lock types because of your comments above. All the knives I listed come from reputable manufactures and offer a fine knife for the money. Especially the Ka-Bar priced at twenty bucks. You'll just have sharpen it more often.
 
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