What steel will hold a 25 degree inclusive edge the best?

PS, I really look forward to the results considering V4E just showed that it can surpass all other steels presented in the last bladesports competition.
 
bodog said:
PS, I really look forward to the results considering V4E just showed that it can surpass all other steels presented in the last bladesports competition.
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That doesn't mean anything.....

It's knife design and the person cutting that is MOST of it....
 
Yeah, I was gonna post something about that at the end but I figgered you already knew that and would say it better than me anyway. But still, m4 is well regarded for hard cutting and if anyone beat it with V4E, then at least it can be said that it's no slouch. I don't think AUS6 could do it...
 
bodog said:
Yeah, I was gonna post something about that at the end but I figgered you already knew that and would say it better than me anyway. But still, m4 is well regarded for hard cutting and if anyone beat it with V4E, then at least it can be said that it's no slouch. I don't think AUS6 could do it...
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It's like any other sport really....

It's 80% to 90% talent, with some luck thrown in, the rest is equipment......
 
Ok, so simple question. How do you achieve a micro bevel of less than .001, and how do you know that you've achieved it? I'm not meaning to doubt anyone here, there's obviously some serious testing going on. Just my own rough estimate would be something like making one pass per side with my last stone, being one of 8,000 or higher with my usually routine. Ohh and keep up the testing fella's, good for the goose and so on...
 
Thanks for the tip Sadden!! I usually carry folders for edc, however I think (know) that the bark river essential is going to be accompanying myself on many a fishing trip next year.
 
winguy7 said:
Ok, so simple question. How do you achieve a micro bevel of less than .001, and how do you know that you've achieved it? I'm not meaning to doubt anyone here, there's obviously some serious testing going on. Just my own rough estimate would be something like making one pass per side with my last stone, being one of 8,000 or higher with my usually routine. Ohh and keep up the testing fella's, good for the goose and so on...
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Oh it's no problem. It's very unusual to do that. First, take a hollow ground knife you don't mind ruining the finish on, lay it flat to the sharpening stone, and start scrubbing. Do so until the secondary edge bevel from before is gone. Now, raise the angle to the microbevel angle desired and make 5-10 passes per side very lightly. Now you have a microbevel on a knife less than 0.001" thick. You should barely be able to see the microbevel in good light. You can also do this on a water cooled grinder. It's just important you use some kind of coolant, as edges that thin will overheat before you can stop it without coolant. Easy to grind steels help a lot. Try something like 1095 or AUS-8.
 
Thx, that sounds about right. Now in regarding some earlier posts about needs, and just some of my personal dislikes...here they are. I like hollow grinds on my folders best, accompanied with a blade shape that allows for a thicker tip. That's one of my biggest dislikes of my spyderco's, being mostly flat ground. I don't cut fruit very often and other than looks that grind serves no purpose for me. On a fixed blade its ok, however I'll take a convex grind over a flat any day on a hard use knife. Then there's corrosion resistance. Which is not that big of deal, but it does need to have some. I don't shy from rain, I enjoy it. It means everyone else went home. Often I'll spend 15 or more hours on the lake at one time, several hundred miles away from home. So as long as a knife can spend some time damp and not develop surface rust or worse I'm happy. Next comes the lock, with the axis and caged ball lock being my favorites, followed by the compression lock. Liner locks and frame locks just aren't my favorite. I like something easily manipulated with one hand. Quick to deploy and quick to secure. It also has to be capable of self defense if need be. I'm usually far from anywhere and I need to be equipped for anything. YOU NEVER KNOW. I say capable of defense because I abhor the use of tactical any more. Too many people out there saying an endure is a tactical knife, etc. get real!! Lastly and most ironically all this has made me re-evaluate what I carry. Because although I always have a different knife in my bag, I reach for what's closest every time. My folder. So instead of carrying a folder at all while hunting or fishing, I'm going to carry a fixed blade on my person. Hence the Barky.
 
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I gotta say my gayle bradley in m4 is a really good low angle holder. It came rather thin behind the edge, .015-.018 and in dropped it down to a 26° inclusive without thickening the bevel too much, the good thing about hollow grinds. M4 has pretty good edge stability, gets really shatp and had agressive cutting in my usage. Right now in using/testing my elmax para 2 and s110v manix 2 which is very impressive so far, I need to make a post about it. Byt befire thise 2 my m4 gb and my beloved military (one of the best knives ever made, jyst mho, thank you Sal) in m390 very my go yo fir all daily tasks. Only downside of m4 I experienced is its not stainless and it gat patinaed around tge spydie hole but I dont care, I actually like patina but using a blade wears it off. So try m4 or elmax which is a really great plus really stainless to boot.
 
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