What to Get as My First Fixed Blade?

The sheath for the Hudson Bay has a folded loop fastened with a single rivet, designed to allow the knife to swing naturally with your motions as well as allow for a more comfortable draw. This would help keep it out of the way while in the saddle. The Bushlore has a stitched loop, but is at least large enough to allow it to tilt slightly on the belt if needed.
 
I made two danglers out of some scrap leather. I glued it together and went to the shoemaker to have it riveted (I don't have much leather working tooling). I attach them to my sheats when needed via big split ring (like the ones on the keychains but stronger). This way if I am carrying a backpack with a load bearing belt (heavy backpack, that is) I drop the knife below the backpack belt so it is accesible. It also helps when sitting in the car or something.

What I mean is that you can choose whichever knife you like and then fix the sheath issue. Have you thought aboug a drop leg sheath strapped to your leg? It could also work.

Mikel
 
Personally a drop leg sheath would drive me nuts while in the saddle. But that's just me.
 
Wowza! Lotta replies! Thanks! You guys have given me a lot to think about.

Wow, you guys really, really like that Fallkniven F1, don't you? :D At $120, it sure is appealing. Would much rather it had a wooden handle, despite the fact that the high-tech stuff is way better for everything, no doubt.

Each and every suggestion you guys made was looked at and considered. It took a long time to search them all out! A couple were out of my price range. Anything above $150 is out no matter how great of a fit it would make me. I just don't have the money. I'm a poor wage slave.

I probably shouldn't have mentioned the Trail Master. It's really for a different purpose -- backpacking rather than trail riding. I don't consider that an EDC knife for me, certainly not one that would fit in the saddle!

The Condor Hudson Bay was a great suggestion from FortyTwoBlades, who's always giving great advice. It reminds me of a certain Crocodile Dundee scene of which I'm sure we're all familiar. Lord, though. A nine-inch blade? Whew. Someone might think I'm compensating for something. ;)

Good thinking about the swivel sheath. No matter what, I'm going to want one of those now even if I have to get one custom. And, I plan to figure out what to do about the sheath after selecting a knife, as suggested. If I have to have a custom one made, I'm willing to do so.

Crimsonfalcon07 mentioned Bark River and I really have to hand it to them when it comes to their website design. So many handle choices! And, high-res pictures of each! Wow.

The Aurora with some type of wooden handle looks great! Unfortunately, I'm way too poor to own one!

During my search, I did find a great megathread: Let's see your good old basic fixed blades, Bowie's, Stickers, ect.

From there, I saw the perfect knife for me (knowing nothing of the blade composition). It's gorgeous. Unfortunately, it's an old 70's 525 Gerber and examples on eBay are far flung from my budget:

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Here's my issue and I'm still facing it. What I find ascetically pleasing and what I think would make a "good" knife are a bit divided.

Looks like I'm going to have to learn about stainless to make an informed decision.

Can someone help me out here? I'm pretty sure I want to stay far away from 440, but I don't know what, if any, alternatives to "high-carbon" steel there are that I should consider.

People seem to like Cold Steel's San Mai (in all forms?), but as I understand it, that's a proprietary name. So, I can't look for a San Mai Benchmade or whatever.

Mikel_24 noted laminated steel that is apparently a go-between. I understand the concept.

What other types of stainless technologies should I consider?

I've been reading, and it sounds like a "good" stainless is more expensive, but not really much worse off in the realm of sharpness and edge retention. Someone on here mentioned that CPM 154 is a "good" stainless. Others?

Honestly, it looks like I've probably got all the good $100 knife suggestions there are to give. I'm either going to have to step up to a $200 knife or go with a $100 knife that performs well, but may not be a perfect fit for the Western style I'm seeking...


Gah, I remember going through this with my first "good" hand gun purchase so long ago. :D
 
Now that we have a price range narrowed down a bit, and the style that you're looking for, do you think you could give us a size range to work with?

It looks like you're looking for something in the 4-6in range, and preferably with a stainless blade.

For the types of blade you're looking at, carbon blades are more common, and the stainless ones are more expensive so you'll be riding a fine line on what you can afford, and what you like. And honestly, if you're ok with maintaining your knife, a carbon steel should work just fine for you (as long as you don't keep it in a wet sheath or out in the rain or something like that). So perhaps consider that as well.

As far as steel... that ones a bit much to cover in just one post. If you get 440, try to get at least 440c. Other than that, for the "good" stainless steels you're looking at the CPM154 and VG10 and better range of things.

Good luck :).
 
You might also consider going custom. You can get some nice stuff at a very affordable price. Andy Roy of Fiddleback Forge, for instance, could probably hook you up. As could a number of other talented makers on here. I know for a fact that Darrin Sanders does a good heat treat, because he heat treats all of my blades, and I've been really happy with how well those have held up. Maybe browse a bit through the knifemakers market area. If you want wood and a nice carbon steel blade, custom is probably the best way to go, and you can definitely find stuff in your price range.
 
Crimson, I'll take a look. Hard to imagine that a custom shop would want to make me something like that Gerber I picture-linked for $100 though!

It looks like you're looking for something in the 4-6in range, and preferably with a stainless blade.

"Yes" on 4-6 inches, "no" on stainless unless I'm forced to go that route. As has been suggested, a "good" stainless such as VG10 is entirely acceptable. Something like in a Wal-Mart knife is not.

Like I say, and is the central focus of this thread, I'm having trouble resolving the difference between knife styles I think look appealing and knives well known to perform excellently.

You know what would be great for a newbie like me? A tiered knife steel chart, one stainless, one carbon.

Since no one's going to agree on the "best" steel or a ranking of #1-1,000 since everyone uses knives differently and has had different experiences, the tiered system would help people come to some agreement.

Like, "These three are the best, these three are really good, these four are good, these five are passable, stay the heck away from these eight."
 
Got it, I'll see if I can help out a bit.

In terms of something being "good" or not its always a little bit hard to just have a blanket statement like that. The reason is that some steels are good with one thing, and less so with another. That said, here's a pretty basic rundown.

Disclaimer: I'm no "expert" but this is kind of how I see things. Anyone else feel free to fix any mistakes I make as I go along, because I acknowledge that I'm still learning here.

Carbon Steel:

1095: This is probably one of the most common knife steels out there. ESEE, Becker and other extremely well respected knives out there are made out of this steel (or slight variations of it). Its pretty cheap, but also a very solid performer (which is why it is so common). I would say that this is the "benchmark" for most carbon steels. It rusts if left unmaintained in bad conditions, but its not too bad (I've had my Becker BK2 stripped for almost a year, and have yet to see it rust).

There are other 10xx steels out there that see pretty frequent use (1085 and 1075 most notably). These ones have less carbon, which means less wear resistance, but higher toughness. You'll see these on lots of machetes and other things that need more toughness but less edge retention.

D2: Almost stainless (semi stainless). Very good edge retention, but not super tough.

A2 and o1: Other than they're both tool steels, I don't know much about them. Should be tough.

L6: Saw blade steel initially, its known for being very tough, but also rusting very easily. Its supposed to hold a great edge (I don't own anything in this, so I can't confirm). Only production maker I know that uses this off the top of my head is Svord, which can be a little hard to find here in the states (other than the peasant folder).

5160: This is probably one of the other most commonly used carbon steels out there other than the 10xx series. Usually you'll find it in larger blades for some reason.

51200: Originally a ball bearing steel. Its kinda like 5160, but with better wear resistance, and less toughness.

CPM 3v: Probably one of the toughest steels out there. Its actually fairly stainless for a carbon steel, and it has great edge retention as well. You'll pay for this one.

Infi: Only used in Busse Knifes, and its super pricey. There is some nitrogen in this steel, and its also very stainless for a carbon steel. Its very tough, and has great edge retention. You'll REALLY pay for this one.

The short story is this. It seems like most carbon steels are pretty decent, and I feel like its a lot less likely to get a junk carbon steel than it is to get a surprise junk stainless (surgical stainless anyone???).

The aesthetics are a bit harder. You're right, there is a potential separation between looks and performance. However, everything thats been recommended so far has been good quality stuff. No one around here is in the habbit of recommending junk. As long as you stick to a brand that is pretty well known, you'll likely be fine.

If it were me, and had your budget and taste in looks, I would likely go with a Kabar MK1 leather handle, or the Condor Bushlore. Both fit the bill and are affordable. If you want to be a bit more adventurous, a Becker BK15/16/17 with some custom wood handle scales, with the black coating stripped, and a leather sheath would do nicely. You could also go with a custom. There are people out there that should be able to make something work in your price range.

This isn't mine, but look what you can do with a BK17...
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Just thought I'd get your imagination going :).
 
Great post, Logan! Thanks a lot! That really helps! I wondered about the 1075 and '85.

So, if the 10xx number is lower than the good 'ol 1095, then it has less carbon and thus can take a bit better beating without breaking/shattering, but won't keep its edge quite as well, if I'm reading you right. Of course, the temper, design and craftsmanship also play a big part in this.

Thanks again! :)
 
If you end up getting a custom sheath done up you should have one done for the machete as well--have a frog made for it for lashing to the saddle in the same way that cavalry sabers used to be suspended. :D
 
Condor Hudson Bay knife. The swiveling belt loop will be a lifesaver in the saddle--trust me. And it's a great camp knife for well below your price cap that'll go well with your new El Salvador. :D It'll match the aesthetic you're looking for as well.

I also agree that the KA-BAR USN Mark 1 would be a good choice to consider.


I recently took a four day motorcycle camping trip with the Condor Hudson Bay. I used it hard it as my fire prep tool, and it easily handled splitting up some pretty knotty hard, campwood and also shaving up big piles of slivers. I discovered that I prefer it to my hatchet for this stuff.

Aesthetically, it is really plain Jane, but so were the traditional knives after which it is modeled.
 
I could make you pretty much anything you want for $200 or less. If you're interested send me an email or call me and we can discuss options and I'll give you a price quote. Like Nick said I do my own heat treating and can use pretty much any steel you desire. I also make leather sheaths. My contact info. is my sigline below.

Edited to add; I have a few already made in 1095. Send me an email and I'll send you pics and prices back. They're all in the $125-$175 range.
 
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Great post, Logan! Thanks a lot! That really helps! I wondered about the 1075 and '85.

So, if the 10xx number is lower than the good 'ol 1095, then it has less carbon and thus can take a bit better beating without breaking/shattering, but won't keep its edge quite as well, if I'm reading you right. Of course, the temper, design and craftsmanship also play a big part in this.

Thanks again! :)

Yep, you've got the right idea. However, the difference is more drastic on the lower 10xx steels. 1075 and 1085 are still quite good. I've used SK5 (1085 equivalent from Japan) and the 1075 used in the condors and neither have let me down. As far as I can tell, they didn't perform much different than the 1095 of my KaBars, other than being a bit more prone to rust.

Good luck.
 
Darrin does good work--he did the scales for my prototype Oberst and Baryonyx machetes. Top notch fella' to deal with.
 
Yep, you could get a superb custom piece from Darrin for a very good price.

I am personally partial to 1095 for knives of the size you mention, although I would like to give 3V a try. 1095 is inexpensive and a great performer though. Not the best steel ever, but very well-rounded. I like 5160 for choppers but not for knives. It has good impact resistance.
 
The Trailmaster is an outstanding choice, but it is a bit heavy. So is the Ontario Marine Raider, which is also a fabulous knife. And though you may not think much of folders, technology is rapidly catching up. The Cold Steel XLG Voyager is almost as strong as a fixed blade and is easy and light to carry. Another one to consider is the Rajah II. Do a search on YouTube and you may be startled to find out what it can do. Less than a hundred bucks and it'll chop and do many things a fixed blade will do. All that said, the Trailmaster is a knife you'll never regret getting.
 
Check out a Randall Model 19 Bushmaster. 5 inch blade with leather stacked handle and awesome leather sheaths. Would look great in your setting. Yes they are expensive but you only need one plus you have the perfect belt sander setup on the way to maintain the super sharp zero bevel grind. You can get them on Ebay with no wait and very little markup over the Randall factory price. You won't find one at Walmart!......ever!
 
Sorry I did not catch your price range in your OP. Randalls are worth the money but way beyond $150. That being said you could always get one of the suggested knives and order a Randall with just $50 down and you don't pay the balance until the knife ships. By then you will easily have the money plus you would have something truly unique. Only other one that pops into my head right now is the Ontario P3 Quartermaster. It has a 6 inch blade and leather stacked handle and run about $100. The very best part they are made right here in the USA! Blade is stainless however.
 
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