What to use to grind scales flat

lamontjb

lamontjb

Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
105
Wanted to ask for some advise on grinding scales flat. I have been using a KMG for a couple of years and I dont feel that I am able to grind scales (or bolsters, etc) as flat as I would like. Is this a user error or is there a better tool for this? Is a disk grinder preferred for grinding scales and bolsters that meet together?

I would like to start using better handle materials and would like to pick up the right tool to make them look right. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

-John
 
I use a KMG flat platten for initial flat gringing of bolsters and scales. Then I go to a disc grinder for flatness. For edge joining bolster to scale.. grind one right side up and the other upside down. No matter if you are out of square a bit..they meet up perfectly. I normally ease the bottom edge of scales just a bit to alleviate any very small debris, solder, etc at inside corner of bolster/ liner. Now...I make slipjoints and not fixed blades or others.
 
I use a disc grinder followed by final manual sanding/flattening on a granite surface plate. Seems to work well for me.

Erin
 
I don't have a disc grinder for now, so I glue a piece of 220 or 120 X sand paper on my glass top table. After rough flattening on my belt grinder, I lay both scales on the glass, sand them perpendicular to the grind lines to the belt grinder scratches. After the scratches gone you can be quite sure they are dead flat...
 
I understand that grinding one side up, and the joining piece down would create the same angle, however dosent this assume that the disc grinder has a rest plate? The disc grinder from Beaumont dosent show this, is there an attachment that I need to add to it (or something like this)?

Also, what grit do you use? It seems that it would be easier to have an all in wonder for the fine flatening since changing grits isn't as easy... like use the KMG flat platen initially, then have something like 180 on the disc grinder.

Am I on the right thought process here? Thanks again.
 
Tape a piece of 180 sand paper to a Granite surface plate and get after it. Don't forget to use a pencil to shade the side you are sanding flat, when all of the pencil marks are gone... It's flat
 
I got a granite floor tile that I glue a 100 grit and a 220 grit to do the final flat. Real important for folders. Like said mark the back with pencil and move a bit on the paper to see where the high and low parts are. When close go to the 220.
 
Lamont: Si senor..you are right on. You can easily add a table in front of your disc grinder....just be sure that it is very close to the disc as pcs may fall thru or be pulled thru the crack and go flying...well...who knows where!:eek:
 
Hi john: You can superglue a piece of plate glass to your platen and your flatness will improve significantly. You will need to move the platen back to account for the extra thickness. Have been using this for 20 years with great results and no safety problems. Also, using a coarser grit, new belt will help with flatness. 80 or 120 grit is a good choice. Just keep the belt speed down and apply even pressure.
 
RJ Martin said:
Hi john: You can superglue a piece of plate glass to your platen and your flatness will improve significantly. You will need to move the platen back to account for the extra thickness. Have been using this for 20 years with great results and no safety problems. Also, using a coarser grit, new belt will help with flatness. 80 or 120 grit is a good choice. Just keep the belt speed down and apply even pressure.
Click to expand...



Also, it's a good idea to use X weight rather than J.

J weight can tend to flex and cup which you really don't want when grinding flat.

x weight will remain much flatter.
 
I use a piece of 1/4" tempered glass that i glue sandpaper to. Handsand and take your time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top