What type of epoxy to use for layering G10?

S

scs.knives

Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
525
I have seen many makers layer 2 or 3 pieces of G10 on top of each other for a handle. Is there a different type of epoxy used for this?
 
Personally I like using West Systems 105 resin with the various hardeners. 205 is the standard, 207 is special coatings (think bar tops and other slow cure applications). There are other hardeners for various applications, too. It is a laminating epoxy so it can hold at a thinner thickness than some hobby type epoxies. If you buy the quart size or bigger get the calibrated pumps for the cans, makes it easy rather than balance beam measuring.


-Xander
 
I use West Systems G flex for all of mine. The other day I had a knife all glued together and started sanding. It was spalted maple over black and red g10. The supposedly stabilized maple turned out to be brittle crumbling garbage. So I had to take a chisel to it. I managed to get the chisel between the steel and g10 and start pounding it through. After the handle flexed enough then chunks of wood started popping off. In the end once I got the handles off the g10 was still in tact with chunks of wood still stuck on it. I feel confident the G flex does a good job.
 
Another vote here for West Systems G-Flex.
Like J, I don't recommend the stuff lightly. I have used other epoxies, but when I glued two pieces of G-10 together with the G-Flex it took some serious beating with a hammer and heavy duty prying to finally get the two pieces separated. Compared to other epoxies, this stuff is tough!!! I feel confident putting my support behind it.
 
I'm going to get some West Systems, but Loctite 324 is hard to beat if you want a structural adhesive that is almost cured in minutes. Only problem is that it is pricey.

If it's a liner and the hardware are bolts, then I see no problem with super glue.
 
I am going to go against the grain so far and put a vote in for Acraglas, I have put it through multiple tests and had similar experiences as explained by Jared.
 
I don't think that's against the grain, Ryan. Lot's of people love the stuff as far as I can tell. Now, manure, would be an option that some may oppose.
 
Yes, of course. Bolts are just piece of mind and are not necessary with good adhesive. Of course, if you want your knife to survive under any conceivable circumstance or duration, mechanical fasteners or peening may appeal to you.
 
ERIK KNIVES said:
Yes, of course. Bolts are just piece of mind and are not necessary with good adhesive. Of course, if you want your knife to survive under any conceivable circumstance or duration, mechanical fasteners or peening may appeal to you.
Click to expand...

I use the very best epoxy, G-Flex for a solid bond and then a mechanical fastener on top of that so I can sleep well at night. :)

(other stuff like acraglass and the good loctite work just as well from what I hear)

I tested the G-Flex and it withstood a sledgehammer, blowtorch and a pack of razor blades! It was like Pulp Fiction that day!!! :D


If a mechanical bond such as flared tube, corby bolts or rivets are used properly on top of this glue bond you are looking at the possibility of heirloom grade cutlery. (of course there are many other options!)


For lamination you want something either clear or dyed to match the handle material. G-Flex has a slight amber tint but so far in my limited lamination experience i can't notice any glue line.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
I use the very best epoxy, G-Flex for a solid bond and then a mechanical fastener on top of that so I can sleep well at night. :)

(other stuff like acraglass and the good loctite work just as well from what I hear)
Click to expand...

We could debate your "Very Best" comment (But I won't :p ) I will put acraglass above loctite by quite a bit though. There was a "Glue War" Thread years ago that was very interesting...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/337504-Glue-Wars-2
 
RyanW said:
We could debate your "Very Best" comment (But I won't :p ) I will put acraglass above loctite by quite a bit though. There was a "Glue War" Thread years ago that was very interesting...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/337504-Glue-Wars-2
Click to expand...

Good stuff Ryan!

You know I'm kidding around with the "very best" thing but for those reading this I'd like to point out that it is only the best I have used.

Same with the loctite and acraglass, that is just what I hear. By the way I'm not talking about the loctite you can usually buy locally, that stuff is not very good from what I hear. (but I have a bottle opener with that epoxy that takes a beating hanging from my fridge, it is still good after a year and a half)

I have read that thread a few times, great info. I have to say my luck with the gorilla glue has not been the same, I'm glad I tested it on a keeper.


GFlex Test, not a knife but pretty cool. I wish I had filmed myself trying to remove some G10 scales with a 3 pound sledge, at the time I was thinking they made it too good!

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-torture-demo/
 
Basically if you use any high quality, name brand epoxy that is not a "hobby" epoxy you will get great results. I use West systems 105/205 because that's what my race boats are made with and it works well, plus I already have a gallon of it. T-88, Acraglass, 105/205, G-Flex are all good epoxies. Just remember to measure accuratley and use two mixing cups for best results. If longer pot life is needed, I take a piece of cardboard with wax paper on it and spread the epoxy out to help dissapate the heat build up. A piece of glass with car wax on it works very well aslo and is reusable.


-Xander
 
fast14riot said:
Basically if you use any high quality, name brand epoxy that is not a "hobby" epoxy you will get great results. I use West systems 105/205 because that's what my race boats are made with and it works well, plus I already have a gallon of it. T-88, Acraglass, 105/205, G-Flex are all good epoxies. Just remember to measure accuratley and use two mixing cups for best results. If longer pot life is needed, I take a piece of cardboard with wax paper on it and spread the epoxy out to help dissapate the heat build up. A piece of glass with car wax on it works very well aslo and is reusable.


-Xander
Click to expand...

I agree, with proper prep and use any high end epoxy is going to be very good.

I made a large model race boat with a cardboard frame in St.Vincent, W.I. and used epoxy I bought in a rum bottle! It is indestructible, lol...

Sorry to take this off topic, back to lamination! I'm gluing up a bunch of liners tomorrow so I'll try to get some photos.
 
Last edited:
Well if Daniels Beer bottle opener is holding up to his Beer use... Loctite gets my vote! :eek:
 
Not much to add, I use G Flex Epoxy as well.

However, I will add that roughing up the surfaces and then making sure they are very clean will be time well spent.
 
ERIK KNIVES said:
Glue wars? If I'm not mistaken, Loctite 324 beat the rest in man made materials to steel. I can't find the post, though.
Click to expand...

I did a destruction test of CF laminated to Ti with 324 yesterday.

The carbon fiber delaminated, and stayed stuck to the Ti.

Another piece of Ti laminated on to the Ti substrate is still stuck on there as well.
 
ERIK KNIVES said:
I don't think that's against the grain, Ryan. Lot's of people love the stuff as far as I can tell. Now, manure, would be an option that some may oppose.
Click to expand...

No, you don't want to use manure, it's a crappy adhesive.

I also have had good experience with acraglas. However, I'd like to point out that surface prep trumps everything.



edit:I was at a trade show a number of years ago and Scotch had their VHB tape where they had bonded a piece of steel to a piece of glass and then separated the two. There were still little shards of glass stuck to the steel, which I found impressive. I believe I heard that Chris Reeves knives uses VHB for some of their scales. Has anybody here tried it?
 
Nathan, I heard about the VHB tape some time ago, but then it kind of faded away into my memory. Still don't know of any specific examples where it was used on knives but it's an interesting idea.

Like you said, surface prep trumps everything. After some lessons early on, I rough both steel and synthetic mating surface with 50 grit zirc paper and use some elbow grease to really get good scratches, then I wash thoroughly with dawn detergent and dry, then I wipe both pieces down with first acetone and then 90% alcohol. Using these methods I'd probably be confident using any of the major epoxies mentioned in this thread.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top