What type of oil do you use?

I haven't heard this one yet, so I'm gonna throw it out there.

I use hair clipper oil. I found it does a great job of protecting the blades from rust and the aplicator has a long needle like snout for getting in the joints on slip joint knives. :thumbup:
 
I like mineral oil. It won't go rancid like vegtable oils and it is food grade so I don't worry about using it with food.
 
i am thinking that mineral oil would be better than pam (although my dad always has used it and swears by it) btw i have tried pam on one of my fixed blades when i put it away and when i came back it had this weird lacquer like coating on some parts (maybe it had it all over and i just noticed where the pam was especially thick) and i still haven't been able to get it off

and pam will defiantly go rancid and will jelly up if you use it in a high friction area
 
I've found Nano-Oil to be the best knife oil as well as general purpose oil: www.nano-oil.com/

Actually bought it because of the very favorable reviews on various forums, and the stuff not only works very well but also for a very long time.
Guns, knives, multitools, flashlights, gym equipment, electric hairclippers, clocks, etc, etc.

Link to a thread on Candlepower forums: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?199915-Nano-oil-(Chtristian-stclaire

Link to a thread on a clockmakers forum: http://www.clockmakersnewsletter.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1276011717/10

Link to a thread on a model powerboat forum: http://www.modelpowerboat.com/showthread.php?1765-Nano-oil-does-anybody-else-use-it
 
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t1mpani said:
If not using Renaissance Wax (most often do), I generally use either Boeshield T-9 or Eezox.
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Interesting that you use Ren Wax. I collect ancient coins and the debate has always been spending money for Renaissance Wax or being cheap and using Minwax Wax Floor Paste, which has proven over 10 years in my collection to be virtually the same stuff, just not as refined (yellowish in the can). Its much cheaper, does the same thing, and on a knife if it yellows its no big deal to strip it with a wash of turpentine or someting and recoat. But if its a user, you'll be wearing the wax off anyway. Seems if you are waxing, Wax Floor Paste is a great option.

Also, CLP Breakfree is what I use on my firearms, in fact it is so good I have had a Mosin Nagant barreled action in my garage for 10 years plus now, once coated in CLP with a cheap paint brush and allowed to dry (1-2 weeks) and it is not rusted. This is Houston, humidity is 90% and more usually. I'm impressed, no rust.

Problem is I have a couple of Khukuris that are high carbo steel, highly polished. Any oil I put on them, including CLP, seems to bead up. The surface is so smooth, there is no surface tension to keep the oils from beading up. I'd really like a film on there. Ideas?
 
Like Kwackster said nano-oil is amazing stuff, my old G-10 military flicks almost like a Para 2 now with this stuff. I would recommend this to anyone, on PB washers it works really well. Just beware the knives also close much smoother with nano-oil ! ;)
 
yak23flora said:
Interesting that you use Ren Wax. I collect ancient coins and the debate has always been spending money for Renaissance Wax or being cheap and using Minwax Wax Floor Paste, which has proven over 10 years in my collection to be virtually the same stuff, just not as refined (yellowish in the can). Its much cheaper, does the same thing, and on a knife if it yellows its no big deal to strip it with a wash of turpentine or someting and recoat. But if its a user, you'll be wearing the wax off anyway. Seems if you are waxing, Wax Floor Paste is a great option.

Also, CLP Breakfree is what I use on my firearms, in fact it is so good I have had a Mosin Nagant barreled action in my garage for 10 years plus now, once coated in CLP with a cheap paint brush and allowed to dry (1-2 weeks) and it is not rusted. This is Houston, humidity is 90% and more usually. I'm impressed, no rust.

Problem is I have a couple of Khukuris that are high carbo steel, highly polished. Any oil I put on them, including CLP, seems to bead up. The surface is so smooth, there is no surface tension to keep the oils from beading up. I'd really like a film on there. Ideas?
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It's all personal preference---I use the wax because I store knives in their sheaths, and since I'm pulling them in and out of their sheaths I don't like the leather getting coated with wax that turns yellow and contrasts with the black/maroon/brown of the leather finish. I've yet to finish off my first tub of Ren Wax, and have been using it for ten years---it doesn't take much.

In answer to your question about the beading up, ironically it was HI Khuks that led me to Ren Wax when I experienced exactly the problem you're describing years ago. All my khukuri blades are waxed and living in their sheaths, and I've never had a blade rust or discolor on me since.
 
t1mpani said:
In answer to your question about the beading up, ironically it was HI Khuks that led me to Ren Wax when I experienced exactly the problem you're describing years ago. All my khukuri blades are waxed and living in their sheaths, and I've never had a blade rust or discolor on me since.
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This is good to know. I don't wax any of my user knives but I do use Ren Wax on my carbon steel safe queens. They are kept in a climate controlled environment so I don't really know if the Ren Wax is keeping them pristine or if they would be pristine even without it. It's good to know that Ren Wax protects your sheathed knives.:thumbup:
 
On my work blades like my Tomahawk, I use a homemade beeswax formula on the blade and on the handle
It gives the wood a non-tacky grip and is super water repellent too!

On my pocket knives, I generally use some sort of firearm oil
 
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