What will a disc sander add?

E

EdgeCraft

Joined
Mar 27, 2009
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122
When you already have a 2x72" grinder with a flat platten, what is gained by having a disc sander?
 
ditto what Frank said. I always thought i was getting stuff flat using my platen and then using a granite plate, that is until i flattened a blank I had already been working on with my new disc. It makes your knives look 10 times as professional.
That platen on your grinder isnt that flat to begin with and then gets wallowed out by the belt rubbing it.
You need a disc.
 
They're also handy for squaring things up or setting a consistent chamfer.
 
Handy for keeping things flat in folder work. Handy for flattening and squaring the ends on hidden tang grips.
 
Any tips on setting up or using one? I have one on my Craftsman 2x42 that I rarely use b/c I don't really know the best way to approach it. Seems like when I have used it on occasion, I had a hard time keeping control of the blank. Also, I have a hard time getting it perfectly square so that if I am trying to square an edge, and flip the blank over, I get a different grind angle. I'm a noob, so go easy :)
 
It helps to bring the table nice and close to the disc, then use a square to set the table 90 degrees to the disc. When you think you have it, take a piece of wood maybe an inch thick and grind the edge fully flat. Then flip it over and lightly grind again. Check the edge. If you started another plane, adjust as necessary.
 
bunghole said:
Seems like when I have used it on occasion, I had a hard time keeping control of the blank.
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You're working on the side close to you, where the disc spins down towards the work rest, right? If you stray past the center on the other side where it spins "up" your workpiece will chatter like crazy.

A square like Salem mentioned is a must when setting the table. The angle guide on the machine is sort of in the ballpark but that's about it.

Also, be gentle with the pressure you put against the disc, the one on my 2x42 isn't super solid. Hope this helps.
 
S knife shop disc grinder is a bit different than the disc on the side of a bench top sander. Those are fine for wood flattening and such, but won't do much for grinding blades. A disc like most of us use is a 9" turned and trued disc mounted on a 2/4HP or larger motor with a 5/8" or larger shaft. It runs flat and true. They can blade surface in seconds. They are the cat's meow for starting flat bevels.

Another reason to have one is the showy shower of sparks ( alliteration not intended) that come off the disc when hogging down a blade.It impresses the heck out of the neighbors.
 
bladsmth said:
S knife shop disc grinder is a bit different than the disc on the side of a bench top sander. Those are fine for wood flattening and such, but won't do much for grinding blades.
Click to expand...

I'm sure that's true. The disc on the Craftsman is pretty light-duty. As you say it's handy for light work on handle materials but I don't think I'd try to do much work on steel with it, certainly not beveling.
 
Since I'm not in a contest to see how many knives I can make with how few tools Il'll give the disc a plug. I do hollow and flat grind blades both, when it comes to flat grinds and clean plunges a variable reversing disc is priceless. I still do the bulk grinding by belt but I'd bet I walk up to one of my discs x10 of a belt grinder.
Ken.
 
I used a disc exclusively for almost 20 years. I only got into a belt 8 months ago or so. I did everything with the disc so what is the advantage? I still do most all my finishing on the disc. I gives the true flat finish that has already been mentioned. Since I am used to it, I have much better control with what I am doing. They take up a very small footprint so having a couple is not a problem. They are relatively inexpensive to set up. This is the main reason I started with a disc. I could not afford to buy a 2x72. The 9" variable speed reversible motor is the best. I made due with a single speed reversible for many years. Just took longer to clean things up with files but it did work. Between the disc, a few files and a couple of die grinders there was little I could not do.

I would recommend a heavy steel disc. The aluminum discs work but I like the steel much better. More rigid and the kinetic energy keeps things moving. Mine is 3/4" thick with a large hub. It would take forever to stop if I did not have the vfd slowing it down. I use the 9" dia so I can use standard paper and trim it to fit. The pre-cut discs are harder to line up and 3-4x the price.
 
Hmmm.

Now you people have me thinking about buying another piece of equipment I don't have room for. Have you no mercy?

Anyone point me to a recommended brand or item?
 
Can someone post a photo or link of an "ideal" knife making disc sander set up. Verticle or horizontal Shaft? Tool work rest? Some pictures I've found don't show a work rest in use. Is it needed?
Is it possible to use hook & loop paper for changing grits, or does a set up like this http://www.nielsendesigndiscgrinder.com/ work best? OR can you reuse paper put on with spray adhesive & released with a small heat gun? Or is it just to much of a mess?
Which disc grinder do you recommend?
Is a flat or 1 degree bevel on the disc best? Does it matter for small knives?
 
I use the Nielsen design set up as it is very quick to change discs/grit. I actually just bought another one of these Neilsen design disc systems for another vfd system. Using the disc grinder has cut my handsanding down consideralably. It saves a ton of money on paper as you don't have to peel off paper that is not worn out to change grits. Just pull the whole disc off and change discs with other grit that is on it. If anyone uses a disc grinder, I feel that you won't regret getting the Nielsen design disc set-up.

Jim
 
I don't know if I'd call mine ideal but its a good one, the motor is a 1hp baldor.
This has done most everything I've ever wanted a disc to do. I made the work
rest and installed the reverse switch other than that the unit was given to me.
I like to grind with no backing untill the very finest grits then I put a piece of .005
printers blanket on it sometimes. 3M Feathering disc adhesive and ready to go.
Ken.

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bunghole said:
Hmmm.

Now you people have me thinking about buying another piece of equipment I don't have room for. Have you no mercy?

Anyone point me to a recommended brand or item?
Click to expand...

Well, it's like this. Get a 3 phase 1/2hp motor (if you are using it for cleaning up and no serious metal removal), get a 9" disc from Rob at Beaumont (1deg offset if youare wooried about chatter), get a VFD or make wiring to attath it to an existing appropriate FVD, build footing for it, and a worktable if you really need one (notice KC did not have one), and plug and play.

1750RPM motor that is...
 
I was originally thinking of adding a buffer to my power tools, but would a disc grinder be a better too to own? I was looking at the one linked off of the Wayne Coe site, how would that one stack up against the Beaumont one?
 
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When I made mine variable speed and reversability was #1 and 2 over all other concerns. Unless you are talking WTH is his name in the blade mag from what, 2 years ago with the double disc sander instead of a reversable motor.
 
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