What would be the best way to stabilies my wood for handels.

[Louis Vaillancourt]

hello people. I've been making knifes on and off for a few years now and i would like to know if any one has tricks for stabilysing the wood that i use for my knife handels. The problem is, it swells or shrinks whith the invirment and i would like to fixe this situation whith out having to buy already stabelized woods.When i'm done working on the handels i put 3 coats of danish oil. It looks very nice but it doesn't stabilyse.

P.S. Sorry for the spelling.

 

[CWendling]

best way ive found is to send it to WSSI

 

[Louis Vaillancourt]

And what is wssi.

 

[deker]

WSSI is Wood Stabilizing Specialists Inc. You can find them at http://www.stabilizedwood.com

They will completely impregnate your wood with an acrylic monomer that will make it work like plastic and finish like glass. It's great for softer woods that wouldn't otherwise be useful for a hard-use knife.

-d

 

[Leatherface]

DIY!!!

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_hints_tips3.htm

 

[Louis Vaillancourt]

Hi Decker.Thanks for the answer. Do you know if there's a way i can do it at home.

 

[David Wesner]

Hi Louis , see this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=437760&page=10 & Tracy Mickley for "resinol" . He will be starting to carry it for sale along with "loctite" adhesive products. I guess resinol is "the stuff" we need for stabilizing

 

[Louis Vaillancourt]

Thank you for the thread.I went to see it this morning and will try to get info on the resinol stuff.

 

[Greg Obach]

if you want to do it yourself... here a post i made while back...

http://p222.ezboard.com/fprimalfiresfrm19.showMessage?topicID=1023.topic

take care
Greg

 

[B Finnigan]

I have been using Minwax wood hardener with good results. It is also on the shelves of most hardware stores so there is a convenience factor also. I can also stain it by diluting the stain with acetone. It is a bit tedious but it works. For denser woods you can add acetone to it to thin it out a bit more.

 

[indian george]

This is what I have been using for years. They use this in museums and even used it to stabilize wooden objects out of King Tut's Tomb.
It's Paraloid B72, I mix this 50/50 with Mini-Wax Wood Hardener. The B72 comes in pellets and you must use acetone to dilute it.
It can be obtained from Conservation's Emporium Tel# 800 672 1107.
:thumbup:
I mix pigments with it and it comes out really nice.

 

[B Finnigan]

I will certainly try that! Thanks.

 

[Greg Obach]

think this is it

http://www.museumservicescorporation.com/consemp/catalog/f.html#AcryloidB-72


Greg

 

[indian george]

think this is it

http://www.museumservicescorporation.com/consemp/catalog/f.html#AcryloidB-72


Greg

Yep!!! you got it Greg.:thumbup:
I use a Mason jar as a chamber and a Food Saver lid to suck out the air.

 

[B Finnigan]

So I am not the only one using the Foodsaver (plus) to vacuum stabilize. I'll be dipped in HT relish!!!

 

[indian george]

I'll be dipped in HT relish!!!

Now you would be really playing with fire.

 

[Louis Vaillancourt]

Thank's a lot guy's.What do you think about the danish oil. I use it to finish the handel's and it make's like a varnish when done but is not.I can delute it whith turpentine as well. What would be the aproximet time to leave under vaccum to have a good result?

 

[Mark Pointen]

On one of the links above,(obach's primalfire) Tai Goo suggests using heat instead of pressure. Gently simmer linseed oil or rosin and submerge. Anyone try that?

 

[B Finnigan]

I think most people stabilize so the wood does not shrink or expand when the heat or humidity changes. Oil impregnation will certainly repel water and preserve the wood but it would not solidify it so it would no longer move.

 

[Mark Pointen]

good point!
Thanks