What would make the best broadhead RE: edge geo, steel?

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fmajor007

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Apr 1, 2010
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I know we're a KNIFE forum, but broadheads and knives are similar right?

So, as the title suggests.... What steel, edge geometry and attendant heat treat would make the best metal solution for a 2 edge broadhead shot out of a recurve bow.

Something like the Zwickey here (i don't want to copy their design - just want to do my own thing)
Zwickey_Eskimo_2_blade_screw_large.jpg


A constraint would be the head would need to have a ferrule or a way to thread into a standard aluminum arrow insert as the image above shows.

I dunno how thick it would need to be maybe .08"?

HELP?!?
 
I'm by no means a bow guy, but A2 is my favorite steel for things expecting to see abuse. I'm sure it'd do well for a Broadhead
 
JTknives said:
I did some broadheads last year out of A2 and 15n20. Both worked great. The A2 was tougher and actually stuck solid in a concrete block.
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Ha!!! I've been reading soooo many posts on A2 vs CPM154, S7, 5160, AEB-L, etc and reading your comments on all these different steels going back YEARS! Thanks for posting - i appreciate you chiming in.

Geoff Flato said:
I'm by no means a bow guy, but A2 is my favorite steel for things expecting to see abuse. I'm sure it'd do well for a Broadhead
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Thanks Geoff - I surely appreciate opinions of knife makers. Ya'll know yer stuff - even though ya'll don't always agree!

To others who are looking in, please post up your opinions - there's no wrong answers and it won't affect your client/customer base!!!
 
The big problem is getting the weight down to a practical range of 5-10 grains per pound of draw weight. But that's total arrow weight so you subtract the arrow and your let with around 100-200gr broadhead weight. That's why most of the time the blades are so thin.
 
JTknives said:
The big problem is getting the weight down to a practical range of 5-10 grains per pound of draw weight. But that's total arrow weight so you subtract the arrow and your let with around 100-200gr broadhead weight. That's why most of the time the blades are so thin.
Click to expand...

That's spot on.

Do you have any pics of your design?

What did you settle on for weight?

What do you think of the single-bevel trend vis a vis Ashby's Study? There are sooo many new broadheads that are coming out that way nowadays.

I don't mind a heavier all-in arrow weight. I was never in the "speed demon bow" camp - that was always for my long-distance rifles so a decent balance of speed and retained energy at terminal distance is sweet spot.

I haven't bow hunted in *years* and everything has changed and I've never with trad gear. This is more of a next year goal so i'm giving myself plenty of time to get everything in order.
 
You're gonna love trad hunting, it takes everything to a whole new level. Good luck with it!
 
JTknives said:
I did some broadheads last year out of A2 and 15n20. Both worked great. The A2 was tougher and actually stuck solid in a concrete block.
Click to expand...
Hey JT - do you happen to have any pics of your broadheads? I'm wondering how you managed the ferrule?

I'm thinking of using a pre-fab screw-in adapter and making a groove to match the thickness of the blade material. Then notching the blade to fit the shape of the adapter. The question is how to solidly "weld" an aluminum insert to a steel blade.... dissimilar metals completely...
 
You could use jb weld or something similar to mate up the ferrule and the aluminum screw.
Of course you could also just forge it all out in one piece and then draw out a "tang" and tap that to match the thread you wanted....
 
Thanks for the response!
A.McPherson said:
You could use jb weld or something similar to mate up the ferrule and the aluminum screw.
Click to expand...
Do you think the JB weld (or any epoxy) would have sufficient impact resistance?
Is there a way to weld or solder aluminum to steel (brazing, 'silver' soldering)?

A.McPherson said:
Of course you could also just forge it all out in one piece and then draw out a "tang" and tap that to match the thread you wanted....
Click to expand...
That was my original idea and I haven't discarded it. I would have to use some thicker stock - well, 1/8th" or whatever diameter the insert screws are. That would mean a bit of carefully hogging off material with the belt sander, but I think it could be done (this is all a new venture for me).

Again, thanks for the input/suggestions!
 
fmajor007 said:
Hey JT - do you happen to have any pics of your broadheads? I'm wondering how you managed the ferrule?

I'm thinking of using a pre-fab screw-in adapter and making a groove to match the thickness of the blade material. Then notching the blade to fit the shape of the adapter. The question is how to solidly "weld" an aluminum insert to a steel blade.... dissimilar metals completely...
Click to expand...
Why not thread in pre-fab screw and internal thread in blade material ?
 
Natlek said:
Why not thread in pre-fab screw and internal thread in blade material ?
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good idea.

Though as i mentioned above, the blade material would have to be same thickness/diameter as the pre-fab screw which could work very well - just requires a good bit of metal hogging on the belt sander.
 
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