The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Zombie, yes, and yes. I've got a format and co-authors in mind, they just don't all know it yet, lol.
... I loved Don Fogg's "The Way" section at his old site. Things like just knowing when to stop and just sweep the shop and reflect a bit...
That last part is what I've been wanting to say, but I wasn't sure if that qualified as "intermediate". I'd gladly buy a book that could help me understand the finer points of design!The importance of testing to dial in your equipment. It's one thing to look up a recipe to heat treat W2, compared to doing 20-50 coupons testing different temps, soaks, and quench mediums.
Specific metallurgy would probably be too overwhelming and there are several good sources for that information. There are great General guides as well as specifics on several sites on the web.
An area I see lacking in many newer makers is understanding of ergonomics and geometry. How much drop in the handle, where is the tip relative to the index finger and but of the handle etc.
I think in knife design you enter an area best done with experiments rather than books. A book can show you the difference between a drop point hunter and a french chef's knife or the difference between a Japanese and Western style handle. I mostly do kitchen knives. look at the folks in my household. I have large hands, my wife has small hands, the granddaughter that cooks with us has average female hands. a knife that is comfortable for me, too big for wife, and uncomfortable for grandkid. I have made identical blades but had three different handles.That last part is what I've been wanting to say, but I wasn't sure if that qualified as "intermediate". I'd gladly buy a book that could help me understand the finer points of design!
I have worked in places that use some Toyota practices for the last 20 years. I reference them because there are many books available that talk about what to do and keep it simple. A lot of it is common sense. If I am buying an SAE grade 7 bolt, the lowest cost and the highest cost product should perform the same. If I use Starrett O1 PGFS, the lowest cost and highest cost should be identical. If I look at how my work area is arranged, can I change it so work flow is easier or so I can sit if I need to. do you work on only one knife or do batches? experiment with stuff, a brand new Blaze belt rough ground two blades, it took two Norzon belts to do two blades, but the total cost of 2 norzon belts was $3 less than the one Blaze. which do you buy next time? just some thoughtsgood ideas, Scott. Some of those considerations certainly fit the ballpark. I take it you're big on Toyota style industrial practices to increase volume, etc, lol. I'll have to look that up.
for some backround and science on steels and heat treat, this book was written for us "Metallurgy of steel for bladesmiths" by John Verhoeven https://archive.org/details/Metallu..._Others_who_Heat_Treat_and_Forge_Steel_By_Joh more ideas can be found by reading the posts of Roman Landes on this site and hypefreeblades forum http://www.hypefreeblades.com/forum/search.php?author_id=114&sr=posts
if I started a thread that listed heat treat info for steels I used, would you contribute the steels you use that are not on the list?