What's a good axe?

H

HungryJack

Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
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I recently bought this book on axes because I really don't know a thing about them. It's a very interesting book to say the least. The guy seems to really knows his stuff about axes. The preface says that the author has probably forgotten more about axes than most of us will ever know LOL.

It really is an interesting read. I'm not sure if this book is well known on the forums or not, but the guy goes into detail about each part of the axe and what one needs to look for in order to get the best one for your intended purpose. It's interesting because he says that back about 50-100 years ago there were axe stores that carried up to 300 different types of axes at a time, but nowdays it seems a lot harder to find a good axe.

Anyway, after reading that book I really want to get a good quality axe for felling trees, hewing logs, chopping ect. However, I seem to be having a hard time finding a place that has a good selection. Based on the this book, the closest thing I can find to what I want and what would be best for the job is this axe by Snow & Neally. Unfortunately, I think that I might do better with a 3.25 or a 3lb axe and they only seem to make this one in 2.5 and 3.5lbs.

Are there any other manufacturers out there that make a better axe for my intended use and have a better selection? I'd appreciate any advice you axe experts can give this beginner. Thanks!
 
Brody R. said:
You should look into Gransfors Bruks, they make great axes. I have their double bit felling axe and it works great.

http://www.osograndeknives.com/Gransfors Bruks/Images/GB490-2.jpg

You could look around, I found mine for $125 a while back. If you don't wanna go double bit maybe check out their American Felling axe.

http://www.osograndeknives.com/Gransfors Bruks/Images/GB434-2.jpg

They both come sharp and with a good sheath.
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Thanks for the advise! That American Felling Axe looks like a good one. How do the Gransfors Bruks compare to the Snow and Neally? After some searching I didn't find the S&N mentioned on this site at all. Are they not that good or something?
 
There is not much discussion of axes on Bladeforums compared to the volume of discussion of knives. Daren Cutsforth sells both Bruks and Snow and Nealy you might want to drop him an email about them.

-Cliff
 
HungryJack said:
It's interesting because he says that back about 50-100 years ago there were axe stores that carried up to 300 different types of axes at a time, but nowdays it seems a lot harder to find a good axe.
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I would suggest it's always been tough to find a good axe.

Many years ago, axes were not nearly as standardized as they are today; as a result, you had a wide variation in style, quality, and even terminology. It seems like every region in the US had a profile named after it.

Also, a lot of axes have been flat-out replaced by other tools or even dare I say superior tools. That's reduced the number of axe variations down quite alot: you just don't see planing axes or the wide variety of broadaxes today as you would have 100 years ago.

So I repeat myself, but even today you can walk the aisles of hardware store after hardware store and think, "These are awful."

It's like anything else: you get what you pay for. If you don't expect a lot of an axe, and don't use them enough to need comfort or consistency, get a less expensive one and ensure it's as sharp as it can get (sharp = safe). But if you need an axe...really need a good one...spend the time researching and exploring. The money won't be missed if you get a good one!
 
Watchful said:
I would suggest it's always been tough to find a good axe.

Many years ago, axes were not nearly as standardized as they are today; as a result, you had a wide variation in style, quality, and even terminology. It seems like every region in the US had a profile named after it.

Also, a lot of axes have been flat-out replaced by other tools or even dare I say superior tools. That's reduced the number of axe variations down quite alot: you just don't see planing axes or the wide variety of broadaxes today as you would have 100 years ago.

So I repeat myself, but even today you can walk the aisles of hardware store after hardware store and think, "These are awful."

It's like anything else: you get what you pay for. If you don't expect a lot of an axe, and don't use them enough to need comfort or consistency, get a less expensive one and ensure it's as sharp as it can get (sharp = safe). But if you need an axe...really need a good one...spend the time researching and exploring. The money won't be missed if you get a good one!
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Well, I'm looking for a really good axe. I want basically the best (functionally) axe I can find. I'm not too concerned about asthetics, I just want it to perform well.

Thanks.
 
If you search on the Internet S&N have somewhat of a mixed review of quality. This is never the case with a GB. Wetterlings are generally liked but their cosmetic finish is less apealing than the GB, but the steel quality is top notch, again slightly canted heads and poor grain orientation can plague you when buying a Wetterlings sight unseen. You can also buy just a head IIRC, then you could buy a handle seperately to make sure you get a good one. There is a comprehansive walkthrough on fitting a handle to an axe head in the free publication called 'An axe to grind'

located here.

http://scoutmaster.typepad.com/axegrind.pdf



If locating a GB is difficult then an Iltis Oxhead may be a decent choice. Alas, even GB let an axe out of the door now and then with less than perfect grain so either take the time to drive to a place that sells them or ask the owner of the store to look for one with good grain orientation. I believe Lee Valley will do this for you.

Another place to read up on axes and axe tests is

http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_topic.php?id_rubrique=20
 
I believe that the book you reference was once sold as Keeping Warm with an Axe: A Woodcutter's Manual. I have found it to be full of information, most of which I had heard from my dad and have subsequently forgotten:rolleyes:

I have also been looking for a good falling axe and haven't been able to get any good recommendations, besides the GB. I have the Small Forrest Axe and am very pleased with GB's quality, but I can't justify the cost of the American Felling Axe right now. I have seen it recommended several times, but I've never seen any comments from anyone with hands-on experience. I wonder if it performs any better than the Snow and Nealy you reference, NIB? I have seen it for not much more money than the S&N. I read a post by Cliff about felling axes, once, I think:jerkit: , but I don't recall the axes he mentioned as being superior. Maybe he'll chime in again. Also, does anyone know of a forum where axes/crosscut saws/etc. are discussed with some regularity?

I'll be moving to central Kentucky in a couple of weeks and would like to procure my winter's store of firewood without the benefit of my chainsaw, if possible, so any recommendations about any equipment that might come in handy are much appreciated.


Todd
 
Todd Robbins said:
Also, does anyone know of a forum where axes/crosscut saws/etc. are discussed with some regularity?
Todd
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The bottom link in my last post is probably your best bet. A couple of guys on that forum have a lot of hands on experience with axes.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm still not sure exactly what I want as I'm still reading through the book that I got. I'll probably wait until I'm all finished before I decide, but after reading the chapter on double bitted axes I'm kind of leaning towards one of the GB double bit axes. It sounds like the double bit axes are a little more efficient, although they do have the disadvantage of being a little more dangerous and you don't have a poll to do any hammering with.

I'm not too concerned about the last two items though. A little caution can take care of the danger issue and I also plan on getting a maul eventually as well. I can use that for any hammering I need to do (or just use a hammer!). I figure if Dick Proenneke could make it for 35 years up in Alaska by himself with a double bitted axe, I can get by without hurting myself with one also, as long as I follow the precautions that Cook lays out in his book.

But like I said, I'm not finished reading yet, so my decision may change.

What equipment would you recommend for sharpening and finishing the blade?

Thanks!
 
I have used a large Hults, it is more of a splitting profile, very thick. An Iltis Oxhead is very nice, the one I had needed little work, however Jim Aston has noted there is significant variability and some need significant grinding. The Bruks felling axe is also way too thick for local woods aside from Pine. There are little actual felling axes (double bit) made anymore. I check on Ebay from time to time and what commonly sells are swampers not felling patterns. To keep them sharp I like a file, coarse/fine waterstone and fine/x-fine dmt plus loaded newsprint.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
I have used a large Hults, it is more of a splitting profile, very thick. An Iltis Oxhead is very nice, the one I had needed little work, however Jim Aston has noted there is significant variability and some need significant grinding. The Bruks felling axe is also way too thick for local woods aside from Pine. There are little actual felling axes (double bit) made anymore. I check on Ebay from time to time and what commonly sells are swampers not felling patterns. To keep them sharp I like a file, coarse/fine waterstone and fine/x-fine dmt plus loaded newsprint.

-Cliff
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What do you think of the Bruks American Felling Axe? I wonder if that would be a good choice for Jack? Link
 
I've had my Gransfors Bruks small foreset axe for a while and i think that it is superb. i highly recomend getting one!
 
How big of a tree do you suspect you will be felling? The AFA was probably designed for monsters, not ~20" stuff. I dare say the 32" would suffice for nearly everything. Its billed as a professional Limbing axe, I have the 26" model and plan to get the 32 very soon. The bit is nice and thin and super light (like the DB that Dick had, well maybe not that thin, but certainly not thick) and I think it would be chomping at the bit to cut some stuff down.

http://www.wetterlings.com/

http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html
 
Few people probably cut down such large wood, I had a GB Forest axe and I would not want it for the wood I cut down which is mainly 6-12", the Iltis is much more efficient. The American Felling axe by Bruks has a much thicker profile than the Forest axe, Jim Aston put up pictures of it a few years back, I was very surprised by the thickness of the bit.

-Cliff
 
Todd Robbins said:
I'll be moving to central Kentucky in a couple of weeks and would like to procure my winter's store of firewood without the benefit of my chainsaw, if possible, so any recommendations about any equipment that might come in handy are much appreciated.
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Well unless you're a Amish of some sort, or have loads of spare time, I'd suggest you get a chainsaw. Of course it depends if you plan to rely only wood for heating, but I know many people who cut their own wood. They all use chainsaws, and even with that help it takes them a large part of their spare time.
Sure that who be a great experience to do all your wood cutting with an axe, but if you have another job and don't want to spend most of (all?) your time in the wood, I have some doubts about it.

Equipment:
Security shoes
Chainsaw Security trousers
Helmet
Chainsaw
Log dog
Maul
Wedges
Some buddies around (for help or just in case)

If you really want to go without power tools:
Felling axe
Large saw (but this one will be the harder to find).
Maul (If you plan to cut large trees)
Wedges
Some buddies around
 
Ravaillac, not to be argumentative, but I can't think of a better stress reliever and feeling of acomplishment than felling a couple of trees, sawing them up and splitting them, with the grand finale of seeing them stacked at the end of the day. It sure beats sitting on the sofa, you earn your beers for the evening and sleep like a dead man. :D :thumbup:

Cliff, did you read the description from Oregondealer? they just copied it word for word from the GB Axe book, take a look and tell me if you can see the boo-boo.
 
Temper said:
Ravaillac, not to be argumentative, but I can't think of a better stress reliever and feeling of acomplishment than felling a couple of trees, sawing them up and splitting them, with the grand finale of seeing them stacked at the end of the day. It sure beats sitting on the sofa, you earn your beers for the evening and sleep like a dead man. :D :thumbup:
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I'm simply pointing that this is quite a lot of job, and it looks quite like what you describe even with a chainsaw. Doing it as a hobby is great. But if wood is your primary heating mean, and you need to stack huge volume of wood for next winter... it's something like taking a second evening job. That's a pretty long term demanding engagment. If you're ready for that, well contragatulations, you're now my personnal hero :D .

If wood is only for chimney fire for your romantic evenings, or cut some with axe and when bored finish with a chainsaw, well that's another story.
 
With an axe you can fell enough wood in a few days to last through a winters burning. In general you spend more time doing the prep work than cutting the wood. It takes much more time to limb, stack and buck the wood than to just knock it down. Bucking wood with a chainsaw vs swede saw is many to one times slower though and that is where the real time is spent. You can chop down a 12" pine easily in under a minute, however it takes *way* longer to limb it, stack it, transport it to the home, buck it to length, split it if necessary, and restack it. The felling time is relatively insignificant in comparison. The chainsaw takes the axe readily on limbing though and is a huge time saver there, and similar vs a swede saw for bucking. It still isn't a massive undertaking though, about a weeks work if the wood is small to moderate in size and not dense hardwoods.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Few people probably cut down such large wood, I had a GB Forest axe and I would not want it for the wood I cut down which is mainly 6-12", the Iltis is much more efficient. The American Felling axe by Bruks has a much thicker profile than the Forest axe, Jim Aston put up pictures of it a few years back, I was very surprised by the thickness of the bit.

-Cliff
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That's good to know, as I haven't seen the American Felling ax in person. The Iltis Oxhead looks like a nice one. How would you compare it to the Iltis double bit felling axe?
 
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