What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Justin W said:
Finished this one today. 6in Santoku in AEBL and Canarywood.
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WTF is all that white shit?
 
kdnolin said:
View attachment 1510037
good weather for cryo earlier this week.
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That's crazy.

Ready for glue op on this kitchen couple, I have to up my bolster fitting game now that I have a file guide. Was too lazy to regrind the tangs and now I have a sloppy fit. Will try to hide it with dust and epoxy and/or colored epoxy. Wood is African blackwood and home stabilized poplar.

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Storm W said:
Once again I love your style. How are you making those handles with no cap to cover the slot. I don't know much about wa handles.
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I mill a slot to fit the tang into the top block on the mill. Then glue the two Pieces together

sometime I burn in it with the tang depending on the wood and fit
 
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HSC /// said:
I mill a slot into the top block on the mill. Then glue the two Pieces together

sometime I burn in it with the tang depending on the wood and fit
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The second handle looks like frame style so no milling there I guess? The first one I cant see, but I guess if its one piece, than you drill and burn in?

Do you taper the tangs and/or the the step down on the tang?
 
FredyCro said:
The second handle looks like frame style so no milling there I guess? The first one I cant see, but I guess if its one piece, than you drill and burn in?

Do you taper the tangs and/or the the step down on the tang?
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Both of the last two u see are frame handles with g10 frame. If you have the G 10 thickness the same as your tang thickness, it slides in perfectly and aligns perfectly

the tangs are slightly tapered. Sometime I have a step shoulder, sometimes I don’t.

I’m a very spontaneous maker

So correct no milling on the frame handles. Unless I use a bronze cap. Then the cap gets a slot milled

I don’t care for drilling 3 to 4 inch long holes with a small diameter drill
 
After faffing with bolsters, dowels and shoulders on tangs I really appreciate a frame style with no shoulder. Much easier to fit nicely and snug, even if you have to sand micarta/g10 to the desired thickness.

When I said step down, I meant to thin the tang squarely all around the neck (haven't tried that yet but it seems like a pain to do correctly even with a file jig).
 
FredyCro said:
After faffing with bolsters, dowels and shoulders on tangs I really appreciate a frame style with no shoulder. Much easier to fit nicely and snug, even if you have to sand micarta/g10 to the desired thickness.

When I said step down, I meant to thin the tang squarely all around the neck (haven't tried that yet but it seems like a pain to do correctly even with a file jig).
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"thin the tang squarely all around the neck". no I don't do this

dowels aren't necessary...try 2p-10 glue, it has a shear strength of almost 4000 psi,
glue two pcs of scrap wood together and try to break it apart... lmk how it goes :)
 
HSC /// said:
"thin the tang squarely all around the neck". no I don't do this

dowels aren't necessary...try 2p-10 glue, it has a shear strength of almost 4000 psi,
glue two pcs of scrap wood together and try to break it apart... lmk how it goes :)
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Yeah, I was thinking there is no reason to over complicate things. Next WA I am going to try to burn in the last fraction of the mm on the bolster/ferrule and drill oversized on the handle and fill up with epoxy (no shoulder). Thank you for answering.
 
Frame handles are a very good method. You can use it to the best advantage where the two scales don't exactly match if placed together. I have used it with mammoth with an ebony spacer. The effect is quite nice. Use a good grade laminating epoxy, like West System or System Three and it will not come apart. Pins are OK if they enhance the handle (mosaic), but the epoxy joint alone will be sufficient.
 
HSC /// said:
"thin the tang squarely all around the neck". no I don't do this

dowels aren't necessary...try 2p-10 glue, it has a shear strength of almost 4000 psi,
glue two pcs of scrap wood together and try to break it apart... lmk how it goes :)
Click to expand...
Do you make the frame handles with G10 and then glue wood on either side with 2p10? I have three blades in the works that I was planning to make frame handles for if I can get them straightened out...
 
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