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- Nov 22, 2009
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It depends on what the client wants in the way of ranges of angles, and size of stones they will be using. I factor all this info together and select the appropriate size(s) of pipes....I keep many sizes on hand.
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What's not working: my sharpener or me?
- Thread starter dingobaby
- Start date
It depends on what the client wants in the way of ranges of angles, and size of stones they will be using. I factor all this info together and select the appropriate size(s) of pipes....I keep many sizes on hand.
I would suggest getting a diamond hones (SMKW has a cheapie for only $6, double sided; coarse and fine). I've used mine (freehand) to do serious reprofiling of several blades. Also I would suggest picking up a couple cheap Moras; learn to sharpen on the flat freehand; then you can handle anything. I only use the diamond stones for major reworking; then go to arkansas or emory on wood for final edging.
IMHO, all these fancy sharpening aids/systems are just crippling us (collectively) and stopping folks from learning how to really sharpen a knife. It's like all the kids have calculators now (or "smart" phones), but don't know how to make change at a store without the automatic change registers. We're getting too dependend on gadgets and forgetting how to do the basics. Learn to sharpen freehand and you'll never have to rely on a gadget again. (rant over).
Rich
IMHO, all these fancy sharpening aids/systems are just crippling us (collectively) and stopping folks from learning how to really sharpen a knife. It's like all the kids have calculators now (or "smart" phones), but don't know how to make change at a store without the automatic change registers. We're getting too dependend on gadgets and forgetting how to do the basics. Learn to sharpen freehand and you'll never have to rely on a gadget again. (rant over).
Rich
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2009
- Messages
- 11,601
It is no secret, it is just dependent on the persons needs and desires. Longer ramps need bigger pipes, more compact ones need smaller pipes, and obviously lower angles will require smaller pipes. If you use big stones and strops, you will need to use a larger ramp...if you are using smaller stuff...you get the point..
If you watch my first ramp video, it gives a list of supplies and a "how to" make your own. I suggest making that one, then playing with it to find out what you want and need, then with a few simple measurements you can determine what size pipe to get.
It is not rocket science...you can do it if you have some skills with basic wood working wools (saw, drill, screw drivers...simple stuff).
Ummm. Reading that again I think what I said could have come across wrong. I didn't mean it to be offensive any way.
I was thinking of making one after I decide on some stones. I had a thought of using a tough plastic, like a cutting board, to make one that is water friendly.
I was thinking of making one after I decide on some stones. I had a thought of using a tough plastic, like a cutting board, to make one that is water friendly.
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2009
- Messages
- 1,679
Guided angle sharpening is actually rather new for me. Prior to that I used good old fashioned bench stones. I started using DMT Aligner because I have to deal with the so called "super steels". Decent Japanese waterstones that can handle such steels are actually more expensive than the Aligner set, takes more room, requires more maintenance, creates more mess (they have to be wet), and most definitely not pocketable.
Yes, Japanese water stones are a mess. I also collect antique Japanese swords which require specialized polishing/sharpening. I have a friend who is a certified polisher. His work room is a mess. Water, stone "mud", etc everywhere. I've never used Japanese water stones, never found anything that I couldn't sharpen to a shaving edge with regular stones/hones; still use them when finishing an edge. Only used diamond plates the last two/three years. I"m always amazed at the number of knife collectors/users (not referring to you) who haven't the foggiest idea how to sharpen a knife. The ones that really bug me are those who put a fine steel, well made knife on a coarse power grinder and call that sharpening :-(
Rich
Rich
A slightly belated response on my part, but thanks for all the tips guys.
However... I'm still having some trouble with the knife and I'm not sure why. For the sake of clarity, let me give you a detailed description on what exactly I'm doing.
I've probably put like 3 or 4 hours of solid work with the extra course diamond hone on the knife so far. From what you've all said, it seems like I should have a re-profiled and sharp edge by now, although I most assuredly do not. In fact, it's quite dull; so much so that I can apply pressure and run my fingers on the edge and not get cut at all. I've frequently been doing the "magic marker" test and it seems like I should be on the edge, although there might be a very tiny black line at the most terminal edge of the knife (so small that is is hardly visible to the naked eye and I currently have no means of magnification).
When using the extra course hone I am indeed applying a decent amount of pressure. At first I was making small concentric circles on the blade maintaining contact with the steel and the hone the entire time (i.e. both an downward and upward stroke in one motion) as I thought this would be the most efficient way to simply remove material from the edge. As I thought I was getting closer to actually working on the edge, I went to just a downward or upward stroke. I should note that I have absolutely no justification for my technique and have only been following my intuition (which granted may be totally incorrect).
I should note that during the beginning of the re-profiling process, I was not paying very close attention to working each side of the edge equally. I figured that at beginning it didn't matter all that much, although I did approximately try to work each side equally. As of late however, I have been making sure that I do an equal amount of strokes on each side.
As for the clamp, there might be a problem. I know it's very important to have the knife securely locked in position, which for the most part it has been, but every now and then the blade slips and moves maybe a a millimeter away from the original clamped position. I usually catch this pretty quickly and with a little force push the knife back into its original position.
I'm pretty sure that those are all of the potential factors that could be hindering my progress on the knife, but of course, maybe there are others. I'm just flat out confused at this point and a bit frustrated too. Why am I have such terrible luck with this?
However... I'm still having some trouble with the knife and I'm not sure why. For the sake of clarity, let me give you a detailed description on what exactly I'm doing.
I've probably put like 3 or 4 hours of solid work with the extra course diamond hone on the knife so far. From what you've all said, it seems like I should have a re-profiled and sharp edge by now, although I most assuredly do not. In fact, it's quite dull; so much so that I can apply pressure and run my fingers on the edge and not get cut at all. I've frequently been doing the "magic marker" test and it seems like I should be on the edge, although there might be a very tiny black line at the most terminal edge of the knife (so small that is is hardly visible to the naked eye and I currently have no means of magnification).
When using the extra course hone I am indeed applying a decent amount of pressure. At first I was making small concentric circles on the blade maintaining contact with the steel and the hone the entire time (i.e. both an downward and upward stroke in one motion) as I thought this would be the most efficient way to simply remove material from the edge. As I thought I was getting closer to actually working on the edge, I went to just a downward or upward stroke. I should note that I have absolutely no justification for my technique and have only been following my intuition (which granted may be totally incorrect).
I should note that during the beginning of the re-profiling process, I was not paying very close attention to working each side of the edge equally. I figured that at beginning it didn't matter all that much, although I did approximately try to work each side equally. As of late however, I have been making sure that I do an equal amount of strokes on each side.
As for the clamp, there might be a problem. I know it's very important to have the knife securely locked in position, which for the most part it has been, but every now and then the blade slips and moves maybe a a millimeter away from the original clamped position. I usually catch this pretty quickly and with a little force push the knife back into its original position.
I'm pretty sure that those are all of the potential factors that could be hindering my progress on the knife, but of course, maybe there are others. I'm just flat out confused at this point and a bit frustrated too. Why am I have such terrible luck with this?
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2009
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- 1,711
Has anyone used both these & DMT stones? With my DMT Aligner & extra course stone it would never take 3 or 4 hours work to get excellent results (i.e a sharp knife) and the only knife I've ever spent hours on is my Endura that I ground the saber grind into a scandi grind.
You SHOULD be able to grind away on one side of the knife until you feel a definite burr on the other side, then turn it over and grind away until you can feel a burr on the opposite side. Once you have done this then you have hit the edge on each side and can lighten the pressure, refine the edge and work through the finer stones.
You SHOULD be able to grind away on one side of the knife until you feel a definite burr on the other side, then turn it over and grind away until you can feel a burr on the opposite side. Once you have done this then you have hit the edge on each side and can lighten the pressure, refine the edge and work through the finer stones.