What's so good about M2?

Dr.Lathe

Dr.Lathe

Joined
Aug 4, 1999
Messages
2,596
M2 is a tool steel often used in manufacturing to cut other steels. As a knife steel it is an excellent choice. The only drawback is a total lack of corrosion resistance! Therefore it must be coated, like the BM M2 knives.
I feel that if it's an option, it'w well worth the extra$$$
Neil

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For the extra $20 or so you pay for it in a BM, I feel it is far superior to their ATS-34. Takes a killer scary sharp edge and holds it a long time...tough steel. I am not putting down ATS-34 for a blade steel, but BM's heat treat makes it too brittle for me. Other custom makers or companies do a much better job with ATS-34 than BM.
 
I myself dont think that M2 heat treated BM strykers are too brittle
I myself own one and use it for everything, I mean everything
It says not to use it for a punch and pry and stuff but I still use it as those because it still holds up t it, They say it voids the warranty but They will never notice
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because iot is so strong. Anyway It is a GOOD BUY

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My Email is - Hero47@juno.com -
 
Originally posted by Dr.Lathe:
As a knife steel it is an excellent choice. The only drawback is a total lack of corrosion resistance!
Click to expand...

I have asked this before on the BM forums, and didn't get a good answer; maybe I'll have better luck here. Is the corrosion resistance of M2 that bad? Is it worse than 52100, which has about 1.5% Chromium, versus M2's roughly 4 to 4.25%? And how does it compare with 1095, which doesn't have any chromium listed? I mention these two steels in particular, because they are two that I seem to see fairly frequently uncoated. And A2, which only gets up to around 5.5% Chromium, is often left uncoated, right?
So, just how bad IS M2's corrosion resistance? I guess I'll know more soon, since I just did a major sanding job on my M2 Nimravus Cub. Just the "edges" so far, but I'm really considering doing the whole thing.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
Firstly, one should take care of all your blades that take care of you regardless of steel type. That being said, M2 is a very tough tool steel and my experience is that it can take on a very sharp edge and hold it. Decidely better than ATS 34, especially that of the BM manufacture. Their black coating has worked well for me and the edge(s) has shown no signs of rusting. The exception may be if one were in a marine/ harsh environment where corrosion may be more susceptible. (Please refer to my opening sentence).

L8r,
Nakano

[This message has been edited by Nakano 2 (edited 01-03-2000).]
 
Just got back from three weeks in the Philippine Islands, and I carried a M2 Stryker with me exclusively. I carried it next to my sweaty hide the whole time, and I mean sweaty, it was around 30 degrees C most of the time with 90% humidity. I also clipped it onto my trunks immediately after snorkeling several times, though I did not take it in the water. The edge did tarnish, but no red rust. No noticeable degradation in the sharpness due to corrosion. This is exactly like the first impression I got of Benchmade M2 on a rainy camping trip a couple of years ago. Keep it wiped off and you won't have any problems over short periods of time.

It is a little hard to judge because most of the blade is BT2 coated, but the edge of the Benchmade M2 blades seems moderately rust resistant to me. I like it.
 
Well, ask me in about 3 or 4 months, and I will be able to tell you just how bad the corrosion resistance is. After writing my post above last night, I just couldn't take it. I went and did the cleaning treatment to my Nimravus Cub in M2. Now it is completely clean, except for the BT coating under the scales. I plan on trying to keep it fairly well oiled (it has olive oil on it now), but other than that, I don't plan on doing anything special to is.

What I can tell you right now is that it is a b**** to get the BT coating off, and I can't quite get a shiny polish on it. However, I think that is mostly because I used too coarse a piece of sandpaper to remove the coating. YEah, I know, should have used scotchbrite. But, hey, I didn't have any!

YEah, I'm an idiot, but I don't care...
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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
Rockspyder,
All of the common "tool steels" will rust rather quickly. 01,A2,W2 and M2 seem to rust the easiest. D2 developes more of a surface rust that is easier to remove. I feel D2 is the only one with enough chrome to make any noticable difference in corosion resistance.
In my own experience, Renaisance Wax is the best product on the market to apply to knives made of these materials. I often use my D2 knives in a salt water environment. As long as I give them a thorough cleaning and reaply the wax, I have no rust problems.
Neil


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I guess I better buy stock in Renaissance Wax, and stock up on it, because the M2 is naked now, and I have an A2 coming. Just out of curiosity, is the Renaissance Wax OK on a knife that will/may be used to cut food?

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."

[This message has been edited by rockspyder (edited 01-03-2000).]
 
Rockspyder,
On the jar of Renaisance Wax I have, there are no warnings or anything else for that matter. Judging by the way it smells, it might not be good to use around food. The 2 D2 kitchen knives I have are all discolored anyway so I don't use it on them. I use it on my knives I take in the field for cleaning fish and game. I figure that if I ingest any doing this, it might protect my innards
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Neil

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would those who have Benchmade Stryker's in <M2 consider going back to ATS-34 because of potentia lrust problems? Are they that bad?
 
Tuff, you better get that finger fixed it is starting to effect your posts
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I am actually amazed, you have more posts since your accident than I have in 2 months, I've got to get with it. As for the M2 - my Nimravus made with it is very easy to get verrrry sharp and holds an edge better than any other steel I have used. I have not had any problems with corrosion at all, even along the edge. I am beginning to wonder if the bt coat does somehow get into the steel as I have not cared for this knife much at all. Most likely the steel is a little better than some for corrosion as my other tool steel knifes will rust if I even look at them funny. Hopefully, Benchmade will start making all their folders available with M2.
David
 
I had a BM Mini AFCK with a M2 blade. It was a nice knife but I wasn't overly impressed with the M2 steel. I cut a large hole in an acoustic ceiling tile and the knife dulled. It didn't seem to get sharper than my Mini Axis and was not as sharp as my Spyderco Centofante (ATS34). I didn't dislike it, I just wasn't excited about it. I have since sold it.

Danny
 
Acoustic ceiling tile? Doesn't that stuff contain a lot of fiberglass, and/or other abrasives? I know that when an ATS-34 Axis lock was used to cut some, it dulled that thing to the point that it wouldn't even scrape hair.

I hope my Nimravus Cub doesn't just rust away, now. I think it looks really cool without the coating. Plus, IMO, the M2 takes a wicked sharp edge, and holds it at least as well as the 440V that I have encountered.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
Steve, just curious, where'd you go when you visited this country? Boracay?
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Dan
 
I'm confused personally by the latest fashion favoring tool steel. It seems to me that if tool steel were hardened enough to be useful as a tool steel, it would be too brittle for use as a knife blade. If it is hardened in a manner similar to other carbon knife steels then it shouldn't really perform any better. I think it's probably more a function of fashion than of utility. Take care.

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Fred
Knife Outlet
http://www.knifeoutlet.com


 
Fred, I'm confused by your reference to the use of tool steel as "the latest fashion". Hasn't Randall been using O-1 since before WWII?
 
Tool steels can have higher strength, toughness and corrosion resistance than plain carbon steels both at similar RC's. Very few blades outside of regular personal use knives are simple carbon steel for that reason. There is no advantage in using plain carbon steels other than cost.

-Cliff
 
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