What's the best edge angle for an Opinel?

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AlonzoMosely

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Aug 18, 2002
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Just got an OP#7, and am wondering what angle I should sharpen it at using me EdgePro. The EdgePro directions suggest that 30 degrees is too acute for a pocket knife with a thin blade. What angle do all you Opinel owners use?
 
Remember that if you want 30° inclusive, 15° per side, then you would set the Edge pro to 17°.

The Edge Pro is calibrated , in regard to angles, from the table surface to the hone/rod assembly.

That does not exactly coincide with the knife as it rests on the table.

The only time this will catch you out is if for some reason you want a very exact angle of a certain degs.
 
OK, I understand inclusive vs. per side, but you've lost me that 15 degrees per side = 17 degrees on the Edgepro??!!

So what setting would you recommend for me on the EdgePro?


Garageboy, what angle did you end up at?
 
AlonzoMosely said:
OK, I understand inclusive vs. per side, but you've lost me that 15 degrees per side = 17 degrees on the Edgepro??!!

So what setting would you recommend for me on the EdgePro?
Click to expand...

Just remember, only when using the EdgePro, that the angles they use are not exactly the same as if you were to measure an actual blade.

Example. After researching the angle that other Opinel users recommend, and lets say that is 15°. To get that exact angle, you would have to set the Edge Pro to 17° for the reason I explain in my post ^^^^. I am not truing to confuse you, I promise. This is just a little quirk of the EdgePro. Its about how the blade rests on the EdgePro table. If you think about it for a minute or two, you will see what I mean.
 
I wouldn't use the Edgepro on an Opinel. Opinels are convex ground. Some sandpaper on mouse pad, or even a phone book will work. Use an angle of around 13 degrees per side.
 
you guys are nuts :D

Opinels do NOT have particular hard steels in either the plain carbon (non-stainless), or stainless steels.

Too acute/narrow an angle means the edges will be damaged so much quicker/easier.

The WHOLE POINT of the Opinel is its convex grind which aids cutting through things -

I use the old "fashioned" tried, tested and trusted final edge of about 22.5deg per side or 45deg inclusive -
which most crock-sticks, V-hones used to come with.
I maintain the convex grind by stropping -
but that final angle is cut in with crock-sticks.

I can attest my Opinels are some of the sharpest knives I have withOUT having to go to too acute/narrow angle bevel.........

Of course YMMV
or you can choose not to believe me.

--
Vincent

http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net
 
Jeez, so i am better off using my $12 Buck mini crock sticks than my $200 EdgePro?? But how do I get a convex grind out of crock sticks? Good thing I am in the process of refinishing the handle with Minwax to give me some time to figure this all out before I try to do the edge. The factory edge is pretty dull on this thing so I gotta do something.
 
Your better off useing sandpaper on a mouse pad, or cardbaord, or a phone book, or leather. Anything with a little give to conform to the convex shape. Don't press down too hard and use a stropping motion. Edge trailling, spine first.
 
OK, have a mousepad, have some sandpaper. What grit should I use and about what angle should I shoot for stropping it over the mousepad?
 
AlonzoMosely said:
But how do I get a convex grind out of crock sticks?
Click to expand...

You don't......

If one looks very carefully (magnifier helps a lot) at any Opinel - they all seem to have a very narrow/slight (<1mm) separate edge bevel - so they are not fully convexed all the way to the final edge - like the blades were convex ground - then finished on a V-hone for the final edge.

We've had a discussion on this sometime back - hold on.... I'll find it.....

starting at post #14 in this thread -

Opinel: Factory DULL


I maintain the convex profile by stropping - but my final edge is obtained with crock-sticks first (then I strop) .....

--
Vincent

http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net
 
Like I said in my first post around 13 degrees per side. The final angle will depend on how hard you press and how soft the mouse pad is. If you do sharpen it with a V stick thingy you will still want to strop with sandpaper before you sharpen it too many times with the V sticks just to keep it from getting too thick behind the edge. I just strop mine to maintain the edge and don't use a v system keeps it convex down to the edge.
 
OOps.. For grits, just like you do with your Edgepro. Start with coarse, then med, then fine, then you can polish more if you want with plain old cardboard.
 
AlonzoMosely said:
OK, have a mousepad, have some sandpaper. What grit should I use and about what angle should I shoot for stropping it over the mousepad?
Click to expand...

I would'n know about the Opinelio-magigger-thingy. But I can tell you about sand paper:

I use DMT diamond stones thru to X-fine (1200 mesh). I then strop my blades with 3M wet/dry abrassive film. I use the 15, 5 and .5 micron stuff sold by www.leevalley.com. It's PSA backed, and lasts forever. I buy 8x10 sheets, and cut them into 2"x5" strips and stick them to a perfectly planned piece of soft maple. That's a little bit harder than the mouse pad and phone books recommended here, but you'll figure out what you prefer. My final step is a good and agressive stropping on leather with green buffing compound.

About the maple: I stick the paper lengthwise along the very edge of the block. After a few pull strokes (spine first) down the edge of the block, the wood starts to compress and dent a little, and some-what conforms to the radius of the concave curve (convex is "to bulge or curve outward, like my gut). I've used this technique on my chives and scallions to good effect.
 
An addition to the above post (edit didn't work for some reason)

** CAUTION ** WARNING ** DANGER

Over agressive or excesive stropping to higher grit sand paper can have undesireable effects on the GEOMETRY of your blade. That crisp 30-40 degree edge can get rounded over. This is always a hazard with freehanding, and is one of the reasons the lanskies and edgepros are so popular.

The stiffer your backing is, the less the hazard. Also, this isn't really a risk with the 5 and 0.5 micron paper. It just doesn't move enough metal.
 
AlonzoMosely said:
Just got an OP#7, and am wondering what angle I should sharpen it at using me EdgePro. The EdgePro directions suggest that 30 degrees is too acute for a pocket knife with a thin blade. What angle do all you Opinel owners use?
Click to expand...

Opinel recommends 40 degrees inclusive. Given that the edge is convex the Worksharp at 20 degrees would seem to be an ideal way to go. I plan to give it a try. : )
 
I had a decent result in putting 15 dps edge on Opinel using Edgepro Apex.
Because of the convex primary bevel, I had to clamp the knife between the metal plate of the small knife attachment and the plastic platform instead of just resting the blade on the platform.
Not recommend this though.
It was awkward.
 
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A few strokes with a ceramic rod and i'm good to go. Passes all the paper/cardboard/fingernail tests with flying colours. I never strop a knife....but that's just the way I do it.
 
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