Whats The Best Oil For Knives?

imho the best is tuffglide, next is militech.

the little plastic bottles of rem-oil arent bad either, its what MT reccomends for OTF autos, & cost is ~$1.50 at walmnart.
 
I actually use some finish line teflon lube. I can grab like half a gallon from work because i'm a bike mech :). Its actually a cable/pivot/chain lube. People buy gallons of it to use around the house but the teflon dries on, doesnt collect dirt or grit and makes the action smooth.
 
I've used Tri-Flow from work (bike mech too) and found it likes to build up in joints and form teflon 'crystals'. I've had good results with prolink but lately I've used White Lightning wax on my Native and my sak manager and really am digging the results. The wax picks up NO dirt and such, though I don't know how long 1 application will last...yet.

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The DX
 
I'm not too crazy about the white lightening lube, i like it on chains but not so much in my knife. It's parafin based so it cruds up. I have never had a problem with the finish line but its probably because the knives i did over i haven't used in a while. I dont lube up my SAKS at all. Just found that i never had to.
 
My experience comes from guns...which I feel are much more prone to rusting than knives. (At least I have to fight much harder to keep MY guns clean than I do MY knives)

As domestic and unexciting as it is the Rem-oil you pick up at wal-mart is the best I've found.

I've tried:
Break-Free
Sheath Rust Prevenative ( by Birchwood Casey...it does make a good bore solvent!)
WD-40 (Boooo...don't be dumb like the younger version on me)
Olive oil
Canola
Clean Motor Oil
Automotive Wax (Several kinds, works good....where you can apply it)
And a whole host of generic "gun oils"

I've stopped looking...Rem-oil is it for me.

As far as eating from the knives...I just wipe them off and go. I figure the all the preservatives in my foods from the stores, the aluminum pots I cook pastas in, and the diet cokes I drink are going to do far more damage than cooked meat with trace levels of petroleum products.
 
i dont worry about oil on knives getting in food either.

now of course i dont want it dripping oil lol, but a normal amount on a pivot or the blade imho poses no health risks at all.
 
If you're talking about oil for the pivots and other moving parts of a folder, then there is nothing better (IMHO) than Quicken Nano-lube. It is a solution of nano sized synthetic diamond that fill in the little micro sized pits and make a bearing surface. It's in a solution of synthetic oil, so after you use it and work it in, you can wipe off all the synthetic oil part and the diamond nano stuff stays in place.

I've had it bring back to life two SAKs that had been relegated to the junk drawer. For some reason, after 2 or 3 years in my pocket, SAK's will stiffen up and become hard to open. It almost feels like the steel has galled. A good oil would loosen them up a bit for a few days and then back to stiff. They'll get so stiff that they tear up my finger nails getting them open. The nano-lube stuff has brought them back to life. After a few minutes of working the stuff into the pivots, they loosened up to feel like almost new when opening and closing. I've been carrying one of the SAK's in my manual labor work-around-the-house-lawnmowing-and-maintenance pants for a month now and it still opens easily. Since then, I've put it on all my pocket knives.

If it's to keep your fixed blade tool steel knife from rusting, then I don't know. (I'd suggest getting a good stainless steel to solve that problem.:D)
 
Because the forces on a knife's pivot are pretty low, lubrication isn't nearly as critical as it is with a firearm, gasoline engine, etc. Plain mineral oil, as well as mineral based oils like 3-in-1 and light machine oils are probably more than adequate for routine use, so long as you keep the knife clean and dry, and routinely oil it.

If both superior rust prevention and lubrication are priorities, Break Free CLP is an excellent product. If you're happy with it, stick with it.

Modern, premium lubricants like FP-10 and Militec-1 can sometimes give a bit smoother operation, but it kind of depends on the knife. All around, FP-10 is my favorite and seems to work best on a variety of different materials commonly used in knife construction. Militec-1 seems more specific and just depends on the application, but does have the advantage that you can essentially remove all excess liquid after heating with a hair dyer and get good lubrication but without the tendency to collect dust and grit.

I generally use FP-10 on my stainless folders, Break Free on carbon blades. IMO to really get full advantage of Militec-1 you need to completely disassemble the knife to apply and "cure" it with heat -- works very well for non-liner FRN folders that you don't expect to get any real maintenance.
 
I typically use 3 in 1 oil for most of my knives. Anything that is not detergent based should work just fine.

Frank
 
Dogs of War. Where do i get FP-10 it sounds like some good stuff.

Thanks for all the Info
I have another qestion what do you all clean the blades of your knives with? Example...say if you just cut through a branch and it left gunk all over the blade what would you use to clean it off?
 
Try WD40 to clean the blade. I have used Mil-Tec, Breakfree, Tuff Glide, Ballistol, Blue Lube by Benchmade, and years back 3 in 1 oil. The Blue Lube is very good but it appears to be a wet lube and may attract lint and dust. I really like Ballistol as it has many use besides it use as lube and it is bio-degrable and contains no carcinogens. I have not used White Lightning but many people on the forums like it. With the Mil-Tec you need to heat the area treated with it for it to be effective and it is not rust preventive. Good luck and have fun finding the right lube to go with that "perfect knife".
RKH
 
knivesanonymous said:
Dogs of War. Where do i get FP-10 it sounds like some good stuff.

Thanks for all the Info
I have another qestion what do you all clean the blades of your knives with? Example...say if you just cut through a branch and it left gunk all over the blade what would you use to clean it off?
Click to expand...
FP-10 is very popular with shooters, I haven't had to buy any for years (a small bottle lasts a very long time) but I see dealers with it at just about every gun show, and imagine many local shooting and sporting goods dealers would have it.

Or lots of good places online, like Midway:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=189955

Agree with RKH, WD-40 is great for cleaning blades, and a lot of other things. It's kind of my standard cleaner/solvent for knives, guns, or any mechanism that's gotten a little gummy or gritty.
 
I haven't had much experience with any other oil, but unlike a few posters in this thread, I really dislike RemOil.

It's cheap and very accessible, but man is it messy. The little bottle has a rounded head that makes it hard to apply a precise drop where you would want it to go, and the oil also gets all over the entire bottle somehow. No, I haven't shaken it, it just kind of got that way after enough use. I suppose it penetrates too well.

It's not bad if you apply it with a cloth or q-tip, but applying directly is messy and it goes everywhere. It also attracts dust like no tomorrow. I find that soap, water, and optionally, a can of air do the job much better. The sole exception to this rule is my new small Sebenza, which may just have tolerances too tight for dry operation.
RemOil actually worsened the action on my Camillus EDC and made it less smooth after applying a drop and working it in. Maybe it doesn't like nylon washers. Washed it out, dried it and it was back to normal.

I'll have to pick up some CLP or Tuffglide sometime to see what the supposed "dry" lubes are like.
 
knivesanonymous said:
The title says it all. I use CLP Break Free. Is there anthing better?
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After too many years of messing with firearms, motorcycles, bicycles, tools and sporting goods of many types, Breakfree CLP has become my lubricant of choice.

I did send for a free sample of Militech oil once and keep it with my knife-sharpening stuff. I use it on the pivots of my folders and it works very well, although I really believe it would be impossible to discern the difference in effectiveness of lubrication between various lubes in something like a knife pivot.

What would probably be most noticeably different is rust preventative ability.... There have been plenty of published tests on that that you can find by some Googling, or better yet, you can perform a comparison test very easily yourself.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
Dog of War said:
FP-10 is very popular with shooters, I haven't had to buy any for years (a small bottle lasts a very long time) but I see dealers with it at just about every gun show, and imagine many local shooting and sporting goods dealers would have it.

Or lots of good places online, like Midway:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=189955
Click to expand...

Midway, that's where I bought mine.

Just recently bought my second bottle, first bottle lasted for years and lubed a _lot_ of knives.

IMO, it's the best pivot lube around.
 
desmobob said:
After too many years of messing with firearms, motorcycles, bicycles, tools and sporting goods of many types, Breakfree CLP has become my lubricant of choice.

I did send for a free sample of Militech oil once and keep it with my knife-sharpening stuff. I use it on the pivots of my folders and it works very well, although I really believe it would be impossible to discern the difference in effectiveness of lubrication between various lubes in something like a knife pivot.

What would probably be most noticeably different is rust preventative ability.... There have been plenty of published tests on that that you can find by some Googling, or better yet, you can perform a comparison test very easily yourself.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
Click to expand...


Do they still send out free samples of militech?
 
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