What's the best ratan?

E

EQUALIZER

Joined
Aug 14, 1999
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254
I've tried a handful of sources for ratan sticks for my Arnis class. I still have one that has outlasted nearly half a dozen sticks from other various sources. There's no way of finding out where it came from so many years later.

On the other hand, I've gone through one class and some robust sinawallies and have already started to shred another one after this first hard use. Since there is so much variation between ratan, does anyone know which species/source has been the most durable for them?

Best regards,

eq
 
I've heard that Manau rattan is supposed to be more dense and durable. Not 100% sure though.

I bought some sticks from Kombat Instruments: www.bloodsport.com and they seem to be pretty tough. They are reasonably priced and you can choose length and diameter.

Aaron
 
+1 for Kombat Instruments... it's the only place I buy my sticks from, be it rattan or kamagong. Good prices, EXCELLENT gear!!!
 
I use sticks from Kombat Instruments (www.bloodsport.com). I think his sticks are good. The best part about it is you can pick your size (width/length) and actually get consistency. The owner is also a decent guy to deal with. IMO, don't order his ugly sticks, if you want to go cheap....

If you want to go cheap, go with www.iisports.com sticks (plain rattan with skin). They are cheaper than many out there. Drawback, you don't get to pick width and length like you do with K.I. sticks.
 
Do the Kombat Instruments sticks still have the nodes on them? I've heard that sanding these off like most companies do weakens the sticks.
 
K Williams said:
The best that I've used are made by Kombat Instruments Limited. http://www.bloodsport.com
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I think we are seeing a pattern here!?! They are good sticks. Just a little more expensive than some.

The Dog Bros. use his sticks. They even have their own signature sticks now.
 
We bought quite a few poles in 8 foot lengths several years from Frank's Cane and Rush Supply out of CA.

They were so cheap it was not even funny.

We have since beat the snot out of them. The skin has shredded in many cases, but the sticks are still good to go.
 
I'm going to add on to the list of KIL / bloodsport.com's supporters. I've dealt with nick for a few years, he's a stand up guy and he's very into customer service. He trains in FMA and he's a great filmmaker
 
You guys might already know this, but for anyone who needs to straighten their sticks, I've tried a few methods. The one that I found to be the easiest and quickest method is to heat the stick at and near the bend then use presure at that point to bend it in the opposite direction. A gas stove, torch, or any flame on the spot and at a lesser extent beyond until the vine is not burnt, but just heated clear through. Then put your knee on it and gradually pull both ends until the stick bends beyond straight the opposite direction. You may have to heat it several times and put a folded cloth between the stick and pants to keep from heat. As the stick gradually cools, it will relax and tend to go back toward its previous bend. Be patient and it will be less trouble than sending them back to the supplier and paying shipping. Hope this helps.

BTW, the recommendations help too. I'll be placing an order for more sticks this afternoon. Thanks guys!
eq
 
Just to get back again for closure. I plan to go with bloodsport.com when it comes time to get a pair for competition, but have gone w/another cheaper source, but good, for everyday use and practice.

Thanks alot for all of the good responses!

Best regards,

eq

ps: Do the extra nodes on ratan really make a difference for durability? I've never noticed. I've always liked them for the extra grip it gives w/sweaty hands near the puno.
 
ps: Do the extra nodes on ratan really make a difference for durability? I've never noticed. I've always liked them for the extra grip it gives w/sweaty hands near the puno.
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I think it's more about leaving the outer skin of the rattan intact. If you sand off the outer skin, the life of the rattan for training is usually reduced. The nodes just sort of "prove" the skin is still there. I like the nodes on my sticks to be trimmed so there are no splinters.

Similar to your question, I'm not sure of is the real significance of higher numbers of nodes. Does this imply slower growth and more density? Aesthetically, I like more nodes because it does look interesting.

If your not a traditionalist, you can get those rattan sticks to last for a long time. Just wrap them in electrical tape or duct tape.
 
Pahtoocara said:
I think it's more about leaving the outer skin of the rattan intact. If you sand off the outer skin, the life of the rattan for training is usually reduced. The nodes just sort of "prove" the skin is still there. I like the nodes on my sticks to be trimmed so there are no splinters.

Similar to your question, I'm not sure of is the real significance of higher numbers of nodes. Does this imply slower growth and more density? Aesthetically, I like more nodes because it does look interesting.

If your not a traditionalist, you can get those rattan sticks to last for a long time. Just wrap them in electrical tape or duct tape.
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I was taught that sticks with 3 to 4 close nodes are much stronger or durable than just two, one, or none. It makes sense IMO depending on the length, especially up to 30 inches. Burning in wax to the skin can help temper the stick and reduce the chances of peeling and sometimes helps with longer life. The wax IMO also helps with the grip. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I don't claim to be an expert. They can break pretty easy no matter how you treat them. BTW, I don't mind splinters :D so I usually don't knick the nodes as much.

S/F
 
PTKstockton said:
I was taught that sticks with 3 to 4 close nodes are much stronger or durable than just two, one, or none.....

They can break pretty easy no matter how you treat them. BTW, I don't mind splinters :D so I usually don't knick the nodes as much.
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I think you are right. They can break pretty easy no matter how you treat them, it just depends on each individual stick.

If you don't mind splinters, you must have the condition known as "Kali-Calluses" otherwise known as rough hands from using sticks all the time. :)
 
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