What's the best way to deal with a liner lock that goes all the way to the right?

Depending on the stop pin, you may be able to put it in a press and smash it a little. It only takes a tiny bit to make the lock-up better.

Another good suggestion... wow, the folks here on BF are great! :thumbup: (I already knew that ;))
 
Something you can try also , if the stop pin is pressed in , pull it out , rotate it and re-assemble. Might give you just enough to change the lockup :)
 
I have often found that striping the knife down for a good cleaning, will fix the problem on re-assembly.

I tried this with an old beater Schrade I had laying around. It had developed a lot of play over the years from heavy use at work. It locks up tight as it did when I got it now. Thanks for the advice. I now have my cheap beater back.
 
a well built liner lock is easier to open and close than most other locks out there
Which ones? Other than the ram lock on the pocket bushman, I can't think of any that are harder to open. I find most are easier to close as well - axis, arc, ultra, hawk, cbbl, compression, balisong, rotary, bolt action, etc can be closed in one motion without putting a digit in the blade path.

and just as durable
This thread is about liner locks that have worn across the tang. liner locks have also proven to not handle shock or static loads equal to other locks of similar construction quality

while still remaining simple and allowing for grippy scales on both sides of the handle.
The lock is mechanically pretty simple, though does require precise fitting for best performance. It seems all locks except for the frame lock have scales on both sides. Even then, some frame locks are machined for scales on the lock side.

I personally believe there is nothing wrong with liner locks, but there is also nothing superior about them. Just a solid design and a novel concept of using the existing components of a folding knife in a new way (obviously not new for us today, but Michael Walker had quite the epiphany :))
 
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