Whats the best way to sharpen a knife?

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brian321

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Jan 31, 2010
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Hello, I am new to knives but i have recently bought 2 that i would like to keep as sharp as possible, I have bought a diamond sharpener and a few other sharpeners but im not exactly sure the best way to keep my knives razor sharp. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
Welcome.

It may help if you give a little more info - model of knife and blade steel.

Several different ways - you'll find everyone has their favorite way.

I prefer the Sharpmaker followed up by stropping.

On my D2 blades I use an Arkansas stone (med grit and fine grit).

I touch the blades up with a hook sharpner that contains ceramic rods.

I try not to let any knife get dull.
 
welcome your question is pretty broad, the tinkering & maintenance will give you lots of info. i like to do a combo of freehand & also some angle aids. remember the less you depend on the gimics the better you will be in the woods & lakes.
 
Defintiely research in the maintenance and tinkering forum as well as online. For new people I think a fixed angle system like a DMT aligner or the Lansky system would be helpful and not too expensive. The Spyderco Sharpmaker is also good but there is slightly more room for error.
 
Between the different mediums and apparatuses, not to mention the different techniques from person to person, there really is no best way. You have to experiment, and eventually settle on what you like.

Freehand on benchstones or handstones is often said to produce the best edge, but the evidence to support that sentiment is mostly anecdotal. Freehand also takes the most skill, and much practice is needed before you can do it properly.

The sharpmaker is popular, and with good reason, since it takes a lot of the guesswork out of freehand sharpening. Most of the time it's what I use.

The Lansky system is wonderfully effective when it works. It's not friendly to recurves or tantos, and the first time you use it on any knife takes time to establish a new edge bevel.

Stropping can be done no matter how you sharpen your knives; when the edge is already razor-keen, running it over a strip of leather (or even a piece of cardboard) can help make it even sharper.

One thing that many people will tell you is to stay away from the little (often pocket-sized) sharpeners with v-shaped carbide bits that you simply draw the edge through. These devices sometimes work, but barely, and often they can completely screw up the edge.

You should also get familiar with the different sharpening mediums out there;

Natural stone is cheap and effective, comes in all different grits, but wears out the fastest.

Silicon Carbide is very abrasive and will remove material quickly, but for some reason has a hard time putting a fine, fine edge on a knife. Finish off the edge on another medium in a finer grit.

Diamond-impregnated metal is similar to silicon carbide - great for removing material but hard to really polish an edge with. Also, excess pressure in your sharpening motion may dislodge the diamonds and make the sharpener useless. The advantage of diamond sharpeners is that (unlike stone and silicon carbide) they can be used dry, without oil or other lubricants.

Ceramic sharpeners (my favorite) can also be used dry. They are very effective and long-lasting, easy to clean, and they come in all different grits. The only real drawbacks is that they are expensive and fragile. They shouldn't be cleaned in the dishwasher, and may even break if you drop them.

Good luck.
 
Arkansas Tri-Hone Sharpening System & Ceramic File Set by Spyderco.
 
The sharpening method that's "best" also depends on whether the knife is already sharp.

If a knife is sharp, you can keep it sharp by regularly using a leather strop loaded with compound.
 
I don't know how much you want to spend but I like the DMT diafolds. They work great at home and are easy to take into the woods as well.

If you are going to do kitchen knives as well and you don't need the portability, Look at the Apex edge-pro.
 
Well i would like something that i can take into the woods with me(while im hiking) That will help get my knives back to being sharp, The 2 knives i have are the USMC Ka bar and the RAT Izula. I will be getting more but im afraid to try and sharpen these because i dont want to make them dull. Also thanks for all information so far.
 
As rifon2 alluded to, the best way I have found to sharpen a knife is to never let it lose it's edge in the first place. I carry a Sharpmaker, an AG Russell Ceramic Sharpener and a KnivesPlus loaded strop in my BOB with me everywhere I go. It's always in the truck at least. I touch up my EDC about 2 times a week. Doing that I find that I spend about 3-4 minutes on my EDC each time I touch it up. No time at all. It's so easy that way that I hardly have to use the Sharpmaker. The AG Russell Ceramic Sharpener is what I use most of the time for touch ups. A few strokes on the sharpener then the strop block brings my EDC's to hair popping sharpness in minutes.

Conversely, I have a work friend who carries several cheaper knives except for the Browning Ice Storm I gave him and I happen to be his personal sharpening lackey :) He uses his knives until the edge is lost. I spend 20 - 30 minutes or more on each of his knives whenever he drops one or more off and I confess I still don't get them as sharp as mine stay with regular touch ups. I'd need twice the time on each of his knives to get them as sharp as mine stay.
 
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brian321

There are some good advice on sharpening systems and ways given already the most important thing to realize is that it takes PRACTICE no matter what type or make system or stone you use. Just keep at it!!!
 
Paper wheels and belt sanders give THE BEST edges, they do take a ton of practice though.
but there is no doubt they give the sharpest edges.
heres some proof:
this is richard J theese knives were sharpened on paper wheels
http://knifetests.com/kII.html
I guarantee you will not find a sharper knife made that way by anything but paper wheels or belts+compound
 
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brian321 if your knives are sharp now you can hit the boonies & use your belt to touch up the edges often so they do'nt get too bad. stropping is the least invasive process for a newbie. while the leather helps alot true use of a stroup is a learned process & takes a good 'feel to become super profiecient. if you get to know some ole timers at the hardware & feed stores they can probably show you some freehand techniques.
 
I bought a spyderco tri-angle sharpener (about 15 years ago?) it came with a video how to use it. Great for a noobie sharpener, best $50 spent ever. I have to say, I've never found anything better (for my limited skills, I'm sure you pro's use much better kit).

I'm looking to get a 1"X30" belt sharpener for refinishing edges/stropping.
 
Greetings Brian321: Perhaps the sharpening system with the shortest learning curve and least opportunity to screw up an edge is the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It is probably the easiest to use without prior sharpening experience. The Sharpmaker is excellent for maintaining a sharp edge. It can also be used to reprofile but is very time consumptive. You are however, limited to two preset sharpening angles of either 30 and 40 degrees. The complete system stores in a compact hard plastic case and is about the size of two packs of cigarettes. By itself, it can take a blade from very dull to pleasingly sharp. Used as per the included video and printed instructions it will get the job done and produce a consistently even and sharp edge. At about $50.00, it comes with medium and fine grit ceramic rods, a DVD and instruction booklet. OldDude1
 
Thanks for all the advice i think im gonna go with a Spyderco Sharpmaker. And then try to learn to freehand. Then if i mess up i can just sharpen it with the spyderco.
 
I use a combination of paper wheels and the Sharpmaker. Between the two, I've been able to do everything I need - folders, fixed blades, kitchen knives, axes, garden shears, recurves, hawkbills, serrations, you name it, they can handle it.
 
If you're worried about messing up the knives you have by learning to freehand, I suggest picking up an opinel or a mora to practice on. They're inexpensive and they sharpen up relatively easy. They also have decent steel so they're not a waste of money like other cheap knives are.
 
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