What's the deal with Busse's INFI steel?

420J2



















:p
Only kidding of course! The only type of steel I've seen come close is SR101 (SRKW, a Busse subsidiary), and that's 52100 with an outstanding differential heat treat.

Best wishes,
3Guardsmen
 
There are literally thousands of posts on this subject---search through and have fun. :)
 
Lots of hype but also - INFI .50 C, 8.5 Cr, .36 V, .95 Co, .74 Ni, 1.3 Mo, .11 N .
 
FliGuyRyan said:
So, are you saying the INFI is good? If so, how and why?

Busse has demonstrated the cutting ability, edge retention and toughness of the blades both with pictures and videos and *live* demonstrations as well as open performance. There are those that spread hype and then they are those willing to speak clearly and openly about performance and guarantee what they say. It is a solid performing steel with no real weakpoints, it can be outperformed by various other steels in individual aspects, but its combination of abilities make it very nice for a blade which requires a mix of corrosion resistance, high durability and edge holding in general.

-Cliff
 
Infi is the same as some companies' "A8 mod." According to the composition as far as I can tell, it will have very high toughness and adequate edge retention, and the corrosion resistance will be the similar as other tool steels, non-existant. With how thick Busse's knives are, it will be extremely tough, and be very difficult to sharpen.
 
Larrin said:
Infi is the same as some companies' "A8 mod." According to the composition as far as I can tell, it will have very high toughness and adequate edge retention, and the corrosion resistance will be the similar as other tool steels, non-existant. With how thick Busse's knives are, it will be extremely tough, and be very difficult to sharpen.

Here we go again. :jerkit: INFI and Mod A-8 are not the same steel. Do a search and read all about it before posting erroneous info that has already been discussed in the past.

Mod A-8 as used by Johanning is a great steel in of itself (in part due to Johannings HT, I am sure).:thumbup:
 
And the corrosion resistance far exceeds most tool steels, and the thickness is matched with wide, flat-ground blades which cut very well, and it is not hard to sharpen or to reprofile the edge if you want even higher cutting performance (at the expense of some toughness).

And once again folks, experience triumphs over theorizing from afar. Can I get an Amen? ;)

Edit: WOW I can't spell today.
 
Of course now, come to think of it, I've never actually come across a steel that was hard to sharpen.
 
t1mpani said:
Of course now, come to think of it, I've never actually come across a steel that was hard to sharpen.

I had a Buck 110 that was so soft, the bur wold fold over and I could never get it to be sharp. I have better luck with my Carbon Steel blades and the better Stainless steels as well. The cheaper SS blades are a little harder to sharpen. But I agree, I never even had trouble sharpening my 440V blades
 
Larrin said:
Infi is the same as some companies' "A8 mod." According to the composition as far as I can tell, it will have very high toughness and adequate edge retention, and the corrosion resistance will be the similar as other tool steels, non-existant. With how thick Busse's knives are, it will be extremely tough, and be very difficult to sharpen.

Jockohomo said:
. . . Although I believe Cold Steel call it Carbon V...

Where do you guys come up with such nonsense? Do you actually believe your own misinformation, or are you just trying to deceive people?:confused:
 
Okay if you took kryptonite and blasted it with rays from a cosmic storm, and then brought it back to earth and hypermutated it with Gamma radiation, and THEN let John Fitch forge it, you might get something close to INFI.
Otherwise.....
You can't touch this.
mc_hammer.jpg
 
Okay, I could have gone my whole life without seeing that picture again...
 
Cobalt said:
I had a Buck 110 that was so soft, the bur wold fold over and I could never get it to be sharp.

On the softer stuff, I've found that moving the edge in a sawing fashion (or like playing a violin) across the stone helps reduce rolling and wire edges. Seems like it is easier to maintain a consistent pressure this way. Also, I generally stick to coarser grits on soft steels and just use light pressure to hone.

Of course, the other option is to send it back to Buck and have 'em put a BG-42 blade in there. :D
 
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