What's the deal with recurve blades?

Recurves are easy to sharpen. I really don't understand why people have a hard time doing it. Their are many sharpening tools that will do it and they are very easy to find. If you use them often enough more uses will be found for them. The Vaquero designs will cut just about anything when properly used. True the longer the recurve blade the more cutting power it generates but smaller blades can also be used in the same way. I like all my recurves, and drop points, wharnies, sheepsfoot, spear, speys, clip point, trailing point, hawkbills etc. Some do most things well, others do specific things well. None of them are hard to sharpen with the right tools and a little patience and practice.
 
I remember sharpening a 710 for someone in college. I used his EZE Lap diamond rod and a ceramic crock stick for finishing. It was deceptively easy, especially since this 710 was one I sold him because I didnt like sharpening it. Crap, now my only barrier against getting another one is gone. Thank heavens for Christmas bonuses. The Congress Tools round rods are cheap, and go all the way down to 60 grit or less. I used the Sharpmaker and belt sander for my Vapor. I'm not making my case any better am I?
 
Recurves are no more difficult to sharpen than a straight edge. They just take different tools. I've found that other than the sharpmaker, a recurve can be easily resharpened on the rounded edge of a table using aluminum oxide sandpaper.

But playing with belt sanders and paper wheels is a lot of fun!
 
Taking the advice of Joe Talmadge I have "differentially" sharpened my BM710D2 so that the first 1/4 of the blade nearest the handle is slightly toothy and beveled at about 20 degrees per side. The second 1/4 transitions from toothy to polished and the bevel changes from 20 degrees to 10 degrees per side. The last half of the blade is all 10 degrees per side with a hair-splitting polished edge. This is a seriously powerful slicer that can be used in many ways. The first half of the blade starting from the handle can be used almost like a saw to cut hard materials like clamshell packaging. The toothy part is great for starting cuts on things like tomatoes and then following through on the slice with the rest of the polished edge. The 20 degree per side area is also where the most leverage can be applied and is perfect for very hard use that would otherwise compromise the thin edge on the rest of the blade. I've found I can cut things in one quick draw of the blade that a similar sized knife would require more work from.
 
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