Whats the deal?

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Sep 14, 2010
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I have been making fixed blades for a couple years now and now have started working on my first frame lock. While researching methods and styles I kept noticing that many of them are using 154cm for their blades. At first I just took note of it and kept researching, however it seems to be everywhere and I would like to know why? I normally work with high carbon steels 1084, O1 and 52100 and achieve great results with those steels and planned to use them in my frame-locks but with so many using 154cm I must wonder if I am missing out on something. So whats the deal?
 
Shane, in my opinion you are not missing anything. I would stick with the steel you get good results with. That style of knife is a lot of work and I would want it to come out right. As far as all the other folks using it, I guess its just what they feel comfy with. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Most people use stainless for folders since pockets tend to get a little sweaty and the high carbon and tool steel blades start to rust a little more readily. As for why 154CM specifically, I'd say it's because it's just an all around great steel, not TERRIBLY expensive or overly difficult to heat treat.
 
For those that dont know me please know that I am not putting 154cm down as I really know nothing about it. Just wanting to learn why its so popular.
 
I have been making fixed blades for a couple years now and now have started working on my first frame lock. While researching methods and styles I kept noticing that many of them are using 154cm for their blades. At first I just took note of it and kept researching, however it seems to be everywhere and I would like to know why? I normally work with high carbon steels 1084, O1 and 52100 and achieve great results with those steels and planned to use them in my frame-locks but with so many using 154cm I must wonder if I am missing out on something. So whats the deal?

Galvanic Corrosion - the steel and Ti will slowly corrode, using a stainless steel really slows this process down

Performance - you have to try it to believe it but 154cm is a great performer. I don't want to debate carbon vs stainless but try it, I bet you will be amazed like I was.
 
On the other hand I've heard a lot of people complain about the relatively few number of good folders available with carbon steel blades. 1084, O1 and 52100 are all highly respected and I bet folders made from them would do very well sales-wise.
 
I think you see a connection between style and blade steel.

I think the people that buy traditional styles are sometimes more interested in carbon steels and the patina they have.

However a safe queen traditional needs much more care than a stainless too.
 
As mentioned above, it's sweaty in most pants pockets and a high carbon blade would rust much more quickly. If properly cared for, the high carbon wouldn't rust but instead would leave an oil/wax stain on your pants. Who want's oily pants?

As for 154cm, I've seen a lot using S30V and S35VN. I made mine from S30V. Glad I did, finishing it was a pain but it is still sharp from it's initial sharpening two years ago.
 
CPM154CM is a very nice stainless to work with, it's very fine grained and polishes great. Also, it takes and holds a very keen edge. I was talking to Ken Onion about a blind test he did at a bear hunt in Alaska- he made I think five of his "Unusual" model hunters, blaze G10 scales and identical in every way except one was stainless damascus, and everyone dressed bears with them. Only Ken knew how to tell them apart. The CPM154CM noticeably beat the others in the field. I'll not mention what the other steels were, but they were well known custom grade stainless cutlery steels.

Also, the cost is comparatively reasonable.
 
I did some more checking and see that cpm s35-vn is comparable in price to 154cm but it also mentioned that cpm s35vn was better across the board than 154cm as well as having it mentioned that it can have a thinner edge than normal. Would this not be a better choice for a folder? I wont be hammering it through car doors or batoning logs for fire wood, just everyday task for a fire fighter. You know like opening a bag of chips, cutting rope, a seat belt or two, cleaning the nails, cutting paper and hair to wow the masses lol just everyday fire fighter stuff lol!

I have a comp controlled oven, fast and medium speed oils, but no quenching plates. The HT info mentioned doing an interrupted quench to get below 1000*f then air cool and the temps were similar so I will still be using 321 foil. What else do I need to know about quenching cpm s35-vn properly ?

I also did some searching on a couple companies that use Ti almost exclusive in design and application and in all 3 they mention having a coating or electro anodizing the ti to bring galvanic corrosion to zero.
 
If you want to get the most even HT and the least warpage I'd suggest using quench plates- a couple plates of 1" thick aluminum. Some guys freeze the plates first for faster quench.

One respect in which you will find 154CM preferable is that it's easier to hand sand after hardening. High vanadium steels can really wear a guy out in finishing. That said, my experience is more with S30V, S60V, and CruForge. Don't know if S35VN is as bad as those for finishing.
 
After all the time I am putting into the blade aI really dont want to jack and short change my work with a shotty ht. looks like I need some plates and learn how to use them!
 
CPM154 is not the same thing as 154CM and CPM154CM is a common misnomer. (One that I've made too.:o)
CPM154 is the powdered-metalugy version of 154CM that boasts noticable benefits. It's also somewhat more expensive than 154CM which has been around a very long time.

IMO, 154CM is a great material. CPM154 is a really great material. As you know, optimal HT for whatever you use is of utmost importance. A lot of guys don't get the most out of their "supersteels."
 
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