what's the mystery oil that khuks come slathered in?

cognitivefun said:
baby oil

mineral oil

different?

Is there a difference? Which is better?
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One and the same, just one has a nice smell usually associated with babies. Since they are the same there is no difference. I just prefer my khuks not go around smelling like babies.:grumpy:

But I prefer the Ballistol-Lube anyway. I have found it works for the whole rig and not just one part of it.
A Tru-Oil, Tung Oil, Linseed Oil, Ballistol-Lube treatment makes for a nice satin finished wood handle. Keeps horn from splitting and cracking. Keeps leather supple and pliant and prevents rust on steel. What more could you ask for?:rolleyes: :p

To not go overboard here I also use Sno-Seal on much of my leather goods. It's cheap And effective And easy to use, again what more could you ask for?;)
 
I used to treat all the new sheaths coming into my house with Snowseal. I got out of the habbit.



munk
 
cognitivefun said:
Is there a difference? Which is better?
Click to expand...
technically
you can get mineral oil (white oil, parafin oil .............)
in specific or general viscosit8ies

heavier often used for laxitive
lighter often used for external/skin protection/emmolient
different hydrocarbon weights, or weight mixtures

as laxative
I'd gues heavier weights are less likely to be absorbed by intestines in any way
or to have fractions that are

I prefer using the lightewr mineral oils whn i use them
just seems that the thicker oils are more difficult to remove excess
& lighter ones might 'fit' iinto microscopic scratches & holes better
to better protect steel
& maybe penetrate pores better if used for non-metal materials

-----------------

last year while discussing with Yvsa & others here
and doing a lot of reading online re leather & other material preservation
(which was consolidated in a thread here,
then lost during the upgrade crash a year ago)
I became convinced
that the -best- leather treatment is to seal the surface with a wax
& stick it in a glass case
In the real world
use wax & probably ballistol prior & inside
my mind in convinced re ballistol
but not enough experience myself

Also,
depends on whether you're happy replacing leather down the road
or whether you'd prefer the leather be passed on to the next generation.


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-tWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
QUOTE=munk
I got out of the habbit.


Did it squeal while you were squeezing it out of it?











:D :eek: :p
 
I really like mineral oil on my carbon steel knives. I use a combination (mixed together) of Kiwi shoe polish and Saddle soap on the leather of my sheaths.
I am not sure if those are the best choices but they work for me. ;)
If I could figure a way of properly treating the wood in the scabbards I would feel I had completed the task properly. :confused:
 
get a cloth, coat it with wax (beeswax, carnauba, etc) and jam it all the way down into the bottom of your wood scabbard. Do this until you coat the inside with wax. Probably only need to do it once and you'll be doing your knife and your scabbard a favor.

Just so you don't think I'm pulling this out of my butt.....it's common for sheathmakers (especially good ones) to treat the inside as well as the outside of a sheath with moisture protection (ie. wax).
 
fits Bruise's requirement of "FREE"



:barf:
 
today it was palm oil...it doesn't go rancid very quickly and it does a good job sticking to my AK Bowie.

I am waiting for the Ballistol to come in.

Meanwhile, I chopped some chicken backs and hacked turkey carcass bones. What fun!
 
Break-free CLP. Anybody else use it, too? Seems to work very well. I've used it on guns w/ great results. (I don't put this on the handle.)

Nam
 
Daniel Koster said:
wood scabbard. Do this until you coat the inside with wax..
Click to expand...
I'd be curious if a wax-based
wire-pulling lubricant might do the job here
thick liquid easy to pour/blow into sheath
wipe out excess
need to check into various available formulations

Like:
http://www.jhlarson.com/brn_spec/lube_table.htm


~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<>call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-tWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
namaarie said:
Break-free CLP. Anybody else use it, too? Seems to work very well. I've used it on guns w/ great results. (I don't put this on the handle.)
Click to expand...

I used to. I still use it on firearms...old habits die hard, but I'm slowly making the transition to Ballistol for those too. About a month back I wound up completely submerged in a drainage ditch during a hunting trip and my poor Taurus was dunked. Immediate action upon returning home was a good spraydown with Ballistol until I could get it. Problem solved. In my experience, with CLP there would've still been a bit of rust...nothing serious, but something. The Taurus remained spotless.

It's not often that I use khuks as cooking or eating utinsels but we all have our episodes sometimes. CLP tastes absolutely awful and is not safe for consumption. (Hasn't hurt me yet, but that's what the label says.) Ballistol is food safe and doesn't have a discernable taste. I also tend to get a bit messy with oil; slopping Ballistol all over the scabbard and handle is not only harmless, it's actually beneficial.

CLP still gets the nod (from me, anyway) for rust removal. My "rust-busting" kit on the ship was a bottle of CLP and paper towels. It wouldn't remove pitting but worked fine on everything short of that. Good stuff, but they've got to do something about the flavor...
 
cognitivefun said:
today it was palm oil...it doesn't go rancid very quickly and it does a good job sticking to my AK Bowie.
Click to expand...
By using any vegetable oil you are letting yourself in for buildup in the scabbards which lead to the khuk sticking and sticking badly.:barf:
The best thing would be to clean it off immediately and use even something as cheap and nasty as WD-40. At least the WD-40 will help, or should help, to dissolve the fatty layer you've already started building up inside your scabbard.

When I first became aquainted with khuks I was very high on olive oil as a protectorant but it built up quickly and even to this day my 18" AK is still sticky in its scabbard.:rolleyes: :( :grumpy:
 
One of my main hobbies is racing RC 1:8 scale offroad cars.

The $200-$400 engines drive on nitromethanol, which attracts moisture and if left unattended, rust.
We protect the internals of the engines inbetween racing with "afterrun oil".
I doubt it's foodsafe, because it's synthetic.
But if it's good enough to protect my 40000rpm 2stroke race engine, I'm sure it will protect my khuk from rust.
 
Yvsa said:
The best thing would be to clean it off immediately and use even something as cheap and nasty as WD-40. At least the WD-40 will help, or should help, to dissolve the fatty layer you've already started building up inside your scabbard.
Click to expand...

Makes sense. Will do. The palm oil is sold by Whole Foods as organic shortening so it is more like lube than oil, but still...
 
ddean said:
I'd be curious if a wax-based wire-pulling lubricant might do the job here thick liquid easy to pour/blow into sheath wipe out excess
Click to expand...
I do this very thing when making new sheaths. Pour wax (or whatever sealant I'm using) down inside the sheath to seal it from the inside out. If it's thin/runny, not much clean up needed.
 
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