what's the sturdiest fixed blade design?

Joined
Jul 13, 2015
Messages
47
i admit it, i'm a serial knife abuser. i work my blades into the ground and i really wanted opinions on the toughest blade type, i'd like opinions on the most durable:
1. steel types
2. point type
3. blade shapes
4. handle materials
5. overall knife designs (bowie, dagger etc.)
6. models (your recomendations would be helpful)

so in short, help a brother out, need a big strong blade that's going to keep up with relentless outdoor use (don't worry about the outdoors thing, i maintain my knives religiously, they need not be stainless).
 
More than willing to help chief, just a few questions first:
how much you looking to spend?
what are you going to do with it? ie: survival, bushcraft ...rappelling off the handle? lol.

steel: something along the lines of 3V or 80Crv2, L6 or the like.
point type: spear or drop point.
shape: not sure what you're asking, but a convex grind is built for taking a beating.
handle: Micarta/G10.
overall design? simple and no frills
Models: custom or production?
 
i'm not a rich man i confess, i'd rather not spend for than £50 (around 100 canadian dollars, noticed you were from ontario) and also i use my blades for everything but food prep, i camp with them, open boxes with them, practise blade-based martial arts (never really minded what knife it was to be honest, i'm sure that certain blades are better for fighting but for the life of me the only difference i ever feel is weight, length, sharpness and balance), open cans with them (it's bad i know but sometimes you just can't find a tin-opener) and even whittle with them, thoughts?
 
FN SLR bayonet.
B1376-1.jpg

Its illegal to carry over 3" blade in public in UK. Don't get arrested.
 
don't worry there are ways to legally have such things about your person, such as in a sheath, which is in a toolbox which is in a bag.
 
size range?

Look at condor and cold steel. They make some really good carbon steel blades under $100. Becker as well. Those would be my pics in your price range. You are not likely to get a high speed steel for less than $100. So look at a solid carbon steel blade.
 
also ESEE's smaller blades might fit your style and they have the best warranty out there
 
I'd hate to use a good civilian cutting blade to repeatedly punch it thru baked bean can lids, the emergency technique.
 
Last edited:
Cold Steel GI tanto. There is nothing tougher in it's price range

80PGTK_m.jpg
 
Becker BK9: clip point, 1095 cro-van steel, high-saber grind, grivory handle scales. If you don't like some part of it, they're very customizable.
 
The BK2 is quite the brute. The guy in this thread ran his through a barrage of harsh trials, and the knife held up fine. The pics aren't loading in that thread at the moment (not sure if just a temporary issue with the server hosting those images, so might check back later).
 
I gotta go with the Tanto.
 
For a good all round beater under £50 . take a look at the Glock 78 field knife ..
 
Last edited:
i admit it, i'm a serial knife abuser. i work my blades into the ground and i really wanted opinions on the toughest blade type, i'd like opinions on the most durable:
1. steel types
2. point type
3. blade shapes
4. handle materials
5. overall knife designs (bowie, dagger etc.)
6. models (your recomendations would be helpful)

so in short, help a brother out, need a big strong blade that's going to keep up with relentless outdoor use (don't worry about the outdoors thing, i maintain my knives religiously, they need not be stainless).

If you work your knives as much as you say you do, then take off the price limit. You can get one hell of a knife for about 350 USD that'll last a lifetime. That's 3 or 4 nights out with your wife or buddies. Not bad considering you want a good tool to withstand some pretty severe abuse. If it's something youre going to throw in a drawer and forget about, then yeah, keep it cheap. If you're going to use it all the time then spend some extra money and get something good.

Your question is like a race car driver asking which car is the fastest that he can buy for 5,000 dollars. Well, sure, there are a couple of mediocre options at that range but not many and even those options arent great. If you'd open your price range up a little you'd get some real options and not have to compromise such an important tool. It's up to you, but if you really use that knife as much and as hard as what you say you do, you owe it to yourself to consider something at a more reasonable price range.

If you don't really want to open your price range up then I'd suggest getting a bench grinder and belt sander for 200 bucks and making a lawn mower blade into a workable knife for yourself. Wrap the handle in paracord and call it done. Go out and beat the snot out of your cheap knife. If you want something better, then open yourself up to better stuff. Most of these knives that can handle rough work for about 70 USD are basically lawn mower blades with handles, that's why I mention what I do. I don't advocate taking a lawn mower blade and grinding out a handle, but for that price you might as well, that's what the companies are doing and selling it as a rough use knife for cheap.

Here, I know you want stainless but stainless and rough work don't normally mix. The best you can do is coat the blade with something:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...alworks)-52100-Hard-Use-(Updated-with-results)

And
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1305088-ZT-0180-Hard-Use

Both of these are over your stated price range but are completely capable of handling the type of work you state you do. And when you're talking about a work knife, does appearance matter over pure performance? If I was a race car driver I'd take the ugliest, most beat up looking car if it won races for me over the prettiest car that didn't.

Rust can be an issue, no doubt, but with regular use like you say you do rust likely won't form as long as you keep it wiped down sometimes. And most times if you're out somewhere and you see some rust forming it's minor enough to where you can take some dirt, rub it where the rust is, and it'll come off. You have to ask yourself which is more important, continued pristine looks or continued pristine performance. You sound like a guy who probably want performance. Show me a carpenter's hammer or a plumber's wrench that isn't beat to hell after a year. On the same token show me a carpenter's hammer or a plumber's wrench that's been used for a year that can't do what it's supposed to do.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top