The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
You should always replace the used primer when you reload.
Look at the cartridges you didn't try to shoot. Is the primer seated flush? If it's protruding even a tiny bit it isn't seated, and when you try to shoot the firing pin has to push it the rest of the way in first, and that takes up enough energy so it doesn't get crushed properly. The primer goes off but so weakly it doesn't ignite the powder. If you look close and hold a straightedge to it and shine a light on the other side of the straightedge you'll see it isn't flush -- it can be hard to see. It doesn't take much.
I have seen that in hand-loaded ammunition and the factories can make every mistake a hand-loader can make.
It's also possible the primers are bad or the powder is bad, but I think it's more likely that the primers aren't seated. The advantage of knowing that is you can sort out which are the bad cartridges once you know what to look for, and when you send them back the manufacturer can see they're bad without having to test-fire any. (They'll probably look for that without being told.)
A different gun that strikes the primer harder might fire the bad cartridges, but that gun probably isn't as accurate -- heavy trigger and heavy strike to throw you off your aim. I wouldn't blame your gun, unless you just got a trigger job done -- he may have overdone it.
What's Wrong With This Picture?
WD-40 and other penetrating oils have been known to ruin primers.