What's Your Gold Standard Blade Test for Quality ?

Wowbagger

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2015
Messages
8,084
To test not that it is sharp but that the blade is properly heat treated and ground.
That the knife is going to be worth a damb as a user or just a collector's item.

I was going to put this in my thread in the Spyderco Forum on my UK PK but decided to start a new thread here in addition. So . . .

It’s a small task but I cut this stuff most every work day. Very hard rubber with anti wear and I assume components in it to allow it to stand up to frictional heat without breaking down too much.

Due to wear and misalignment these slivers need to be trimmed off before proper alignment and function can be restored.

Thas where my high alloy blades come in to play.

I can tell in a day or two if a blade has been properly heat treated, if the geometry is too obtuse and just generally how well a particular specimen of steel is going to perform else where in the world.

I have had the first example of S110V go from cutting OK to cutting very poorly and then becoming nearly useless in one day. To this UKPK in S110V going for a week or more now and still performing well.

Besides the UKPK other knives that have stood out are the Benchmade Ritter Grip. in M390 and the Gayle Bradley one in M4. They go for a week or more and are precise and predictable the whole time before needing sharpening (and this is with lots of other tasks not just this one).

As a comparison a SAK goes a day or two but that’s it. I used to use a chisel ground exacto knife and that was about the same; maybe a touch better. I would resharpen it to a sloppy mirror finish.





Using all the various alloys on this one chore is, for me, kind of like wine tasting. It is fun and interesting to detect the subtle differences. I am just glad I don’t have to spit at the end . . . or send the knife back or throw it away afterward.

Only you knife nurds can appreciate what I am saying. Most people would look at me as if I had been dropped on my head.
 
I check for blade play, sharpness, touch it up if it's not as sharp as I want, then I just use it.
I don't have high standards or exacting needs in a blade steel, it just needs to be easy for me to sharpen and hold an edge respectably for my needs. Because of this I really don't pay attention to blade steels.

I know some people who have a whole bag of the stuff they cut throughout the week which they test it on to see how it performs and how well the edge holds up.
 
I have found that kitchen use will quickly allow me to gauge the feel of the cut. Cutting on a bamboo cutting board will quickly wear out an edge and is a good indicator for me. I ise my EDCs in the kitchen more than some of my actual kitchen knives. Its just an excuse to use my pocket knife more often. I can admit that. For fixed blades just some whittling of seasoned wood is usually my standard test. Then finally the resharpening takes place.
 
Before sealing the deal on a knife purchase, two of the main things I check for are blade play and centering. A dull blade on a new knife isn't a deal breaker for me since I most likely will give it a touch up anyway. Finding flat spots o the edge would be a different story.
 
After I check blade play and centering I make sure scales, hardware and over all fit and finish is good to go. For the blade itself I cut cardboard and paper. These materials are full of clay and other abrasive material that dull the edge quickly. I then sharpen it up and do it again. If I get excessive or unexpected rolling or chipping I might have a less than stellar heat treat. If everything goes as expected, then it is probably good to go. As far as I know, multiple use and sharpening can tell you what you need to know. If the blade is burnt or discolored I would also be concerned. The trusted brands mentioned here are usually of very high quality.
 
Was interested in that you had vastly differing results in two Spydies with S110v. I know that Sal has mentioned that he buys his steel in large quantities, and that the HT in a large batch of steel will (should be) quite consistent from one knife to another. I also know that some members have not been consistently happy with the PM2's in S110v, although Ankerson was very happy with his Millie in S110V.
Makes one wonder just what's happening... Of course, many "new" blades will not perform well until after they have been sharpened by the owner once or twice. I'm a casual user, so I tend to rely on good "super-steels" that I have personally sharpened...such as S90v and M390. And, I am definitely a big believer in CPM-M4. Great steel.
 
Last edited:
Wowbagger Wowbagger Very nice, interesting subject. Love real world testing like this.

Kind of scary that S110V can vary that much..
 
I check for fit and finish but do not test the blade other than for overall sharpness. From there, I cut things and sharpen as needed.
 
Wowbagger Wowbagger Very nice, interesting subject. Love real world testing like this.

Kind of scary that S110V can vary that much..

No one should be concerned. Spyderco took care of me to my complete satisfaction, makes a top quality product and stands behind it. There was something very subtle happening there but that was quite a while ago. I wouldn't worry about it in any case.
 
I buy a shrink wrapped 3 pack of 24oz Budweiser/Coors/Etc and cleanly sever all 3 beers in one swing.

Charlie Mike . . . always the showman and crowd pleaser !
I know there is a crowd there when you did that 'cause there is no way you are going to drink that.
 
Charlie Mike . . . always the showman and crowd pleaser !
I know there is a crowd there when you did that 'cause there is no way you are going to drink that.
:eek: Back in the day , I'd have lapped it of the ground like a starving mongrel ! :confused:

Well , maybe not DIET beer . ;)
 
I now have drunk lemons/oranges.
 
Back
Top