When did Case start gluing their shields in place instead of pinning them in place?

knarfeng said:
You do realize that all G10 is epoxy? That many Micarta materials are based on epoxy? Very similar to epoxy used in adhesives? Very similar to the epoxy used to make airplane parts? These materials do not "break down".
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Ive used two part epoxy for many many years. It breaks down.
 
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I glued a shield back into my Case Chestnut Bone 6375. I would rather have pinned and wouldn't mind paying a few dollars more to get it.
 
There are different kinds of epoxy. Some are UV resistant, some aren't. Some are more heat resistant than others.
The shield fell off my Boker copperhead. Minimal glue, with a smooth surface on the back of the shield. They just aren't thinking.
 
akadave2 said:
Ive used two part epoxy for many many years. It breaks down.
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If you mean, "the epoxy decomposes." No. Once it's properly mixed and cured it's pretty darn stable stuff.

If you mean, "over time the bond failed and the parts separated." Yes, that can happen. Depends on how the joint was configured, what was being joined, the environment to which the joint was exposed, and the forces acting on the joint.
 
Does anyone happen to know, would it be so difficult, for the home craftsman, to pin a glued shield?
Anyone ever try it?
 
knarfeng said:
If you mean, "the epoxy decomposes." No. Once it's properly mixed and cured it's pretty darn stable stuff.

If you mean, "over time the bond failed and the parts separated." Yes, that can happen. Depends on how the joint was configured, what was being joined, the environment to which the joint was exposed, and the forces acting on the joint.
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I guess not all expoxy is created equal. I have had expoxy get old a crumble on me. Took years yes. I guess everything being equal, all things are affected by environment and time.
 
akadave2 said:
Epoxy works wonderfully for glueing to porous surfaces. I have gued bone to bone (and taxidermists do it all the time) with two part epoxy.
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Yes, epoxy generally works well on most surfaces. Super Glue generally works well too; however, some super glue does not work on porous surfaces.

I for one like Super Glue Black Max.
 
Gel superglues were made for porous surfaces, as well as for easier application (no drips). I used a gel superglue to re-stick a shield on my Case 5344 SS stockman, gluing to the shield's milled recess in a stag cover, and it's been bulletproof since. Two drops of glue, dropped the shield in place, done in about a minute's time. Very convenient. Made me wonder why Case didn't use this in the first place (the knife was brand new when the shield dropped into my lap).


David
 
I've only had one shield come off, it was an early 80s Queen Stockman (with the round shield) in second cut stag, I guess it with epoxy clamped it right for 24 hours and its been fine. Keep in mind it was 15 years ago, prep with the proper adhesive for the application is always the key when using glue.

Did they, (Case) continue to pin their higher end knives through the years?
 
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