When do you NOT use a Sharpmaker?

[Sal Glesser]

MarK - the rounding of the tips is caused by sliding the tip of the blade off of the radius. If you stop the sharpening stroke on the flat side of the stone and avoid sliding the tip off of the raius when using the corners, you can get a "pointy" tip.

We have however noticed that the "rounded" tip has some advantages in strength and slashing cuts.
sal

 

No kidding! I can do it on a brick.

And I'd only add (as I've written at length elsewhere and elsewhen) that I have seen a lovely two bladed custom folder utterly ruined by one of us forumites using one of these jimcracks. Then he gigged the maker into a refund by sending it back with the claim that it was undamaged -- honest maker sent refund before getting the remains in the mail.

------------------
Regards,
Desert Rat

 

[Frantium]

Desert Rat,

You seem to be very concerned about all of us using these 'jimcracks.' While I generally sharpen all my knives freehand, there are times when I want to use other sharpener systems. Whenever time is short, like in the morning when I realize that my knife is not sharp enough, I can use my Sharpmaker with one hand while making my coffee with the other hand. I could get an excellent edge by freehand sharpening, and bricks for that matter, but this needs a good hand coordination. In the said scenario (and yes, it really did happen in case you're wondering), I wouldn't want to sharpen it on my benchstone simply because there was no time. I could get the edge I wanted in shorter time with the Sharpmaker.

Now don't get me wrong. All I'm saying is that it is certainly necessary to build a freehand sharpening skill. Once you master that, of course you can try to sharpen your knives on various surfaces, using other materials. Like you said, flat rocks, bits of leather, smooth bricks, pieces of cardboard, etc. But there are other issues, at least for me, that make it not always desirable.

I understand that your intention is good, and I agree that we, especially knife enthusiasts, should learn our basics. And I also agree that we shouldn't limit ourselves to manmade sharpening rigs. Here's a proposal from me: why don't you submit a Sharpening FAQ, of course with Spark's permission, and post it as an addition to Joe T's Sharpening FAQ. We can put it under the header "Practical Sharpening," or "Field Sharpening." That way I'm sure forumites can learn a trick or two. How about it?


------------------
Reynaert


[This message has been edited by Frantium (edited 12 August 1999).]

 

[MarkK]

Thanks for the info Sal. It makes perfect sense.

Mark

 

[Dirk]

You mean you actually sharpen your knives when they get dull? Heck, I just throw mine away and get new knives.

Of course, if I did sharpen them, I would save a lot of money. And, if I did sharpen them, it would ALMOST always be with a Sharpmaker.

Never say never and never say always. Good advice!

 

[Cougar Allen]

I never sharpen my knives either -- I only buy the ones that say in big letters on the bubblepack "NEVER NEEDS SHARPENING!"

-Cougar Allen :{)

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Frantium :

Once you master that, of course you can try to sharpen your knives on various surfaces, using other materials. Like you said, flat rocks, bits of leather, smooth bricks, pieces of cardboard, etc.

The next time you are in a pro. woodworkers shop take one of his better chisels and suggest sharpening them on a brick. There is a reason that DMT , 3M and other makers of coated hones go to great length to insure that the coating is even in consistency and that trueness tolerance is very low.

While you can "sharpen" a knife on anything that will remove metal from it, and of course remember Arkansas stones are basically just that, stones, artifical hones have significant advantages over natural ones.

When I was looking at the A1 awhile back I severely blunted it digging a hole. After that it could not cut through fabrics very well. I experimented with "sharpening" it on a rusty pick , a brick and a rock. All of them would remove metal and thus make it sharper. However I would quickly reach for my DMT benchstone if the choice was there.

-Cliff

 

[Frantium]

Cliff,

The next time you are in a pro. woodworkers shop take one of his better chisels and suggest sharpening them on a brick.

No, I won't. He'll probably slap me in the face.

However I would quickly reach for my DMT benchstone if the choice was there.

So would I. There's a reason why they make practical sizes: so you could carry them around. In my case, it's the DMT 6" X 2" in my backpack. I don't want to sharpen my 420V knives, for example, on bricks either, as it would take a very long time. The issue is when and where you should use other materials to sharpen your knife, ie. when you don't have a choice.

And of course, without freehand sharpening skill, the said affairs of sharpening knives on various materials will be non-existent. All the more reason for Desert Rat to spread his knowledge don't you think?


------------------
Reynaert

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Frantium :

He'll probably slap me in the face.

Likely with the chisel if he was related to me.

All the more reason for Desert Rat to spread his knowledge don't you think?

I would love for someone to teach me how to obtain a sharp edge on a knife using a bricks, rocks etc. . It would save a lot of money on hones.

-Cliff