When Does The Shape Of A Knife Make A Difference?

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BuckeyeBushHippie

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Apr 5, 2011
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So I've had this in my head for a few days and wanted to know what you guys think.
Does the shape of a knife really make a difference or does it not matter as long as it cuts?

Obviously the shape makes a difference at SOME point and I also wanted to know where you think that point is.

Thanks!
 
Do you mean the blade profile or the edge/bevel grind? They definitely make a difference, but it's really more about efficiency and the best possible solution. A drop point CAN be used do do intricate scribing work, but a wharncliffe is easier because of where the tip is. A kitchen slicer/carver CAN eventually cut through wood, but it'll possibly break, and an axe will do it much more quickly.

So... it's really about optimizing, which is still a good reason in my book. Keeps the knife healthy, too, to let it do its intended job(s).
 
uyotg said:
Do you mean the blade profile or the edge/bevel grind? They definitely make a difference, but it's really more about efficiency and the best possible solution. A drop point CAN be used do do intricate scribing work, but a wharncliffe is easier because of where the tip is. A kitchen slicer/carver CAN eventually cut through wood, but it'll possibly break, and an axe will do it much more quickly.

So... it's really about optimizing, which is still a good reason in my book. Keeps the knife healthy, too, to let it do its intended job(s).
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+1
Basically it comes down to using the right tool for the job. But, I think there are some blade shapes that are best at one thing. Generally I find knives with a pointier tip and shorter blade (1"-4") are good for carving. Longer blades that are thicker (Ontario Rat 5, Becker Campanion, ESEE 5) are battoning blades. Longer knives 7"+ blades I use for chopping. But this is just me. I hope this will help. Just dont take a 4" blade to out chop a machete. And don't take a machete to out-slice a slicer.
 
The names of knifes are often the key to their intended use, bushcrafter, hunter, caping, fillet, bird and trout, etc...
Sure every knife can do other tasks, and some are general use profiles. If you want a knife, and don't know what tasks you will be doing with it, well there's still plenty of choices.
Make a list of the things you never do, or rarely do, and see what you have left. I don't hunt, maybe I will sometime, but I go camping. I need a general camp knife, a way to split wet wood open to get to the dry stuff. I can narrow down my choices by looking at my activities and hobbies. Even with that, there's lots of choices, and sometimes you just gotta try something. Cheap junk may not be the best example of a certain style, the Condor Nessmuk is not a good Nessmuk, IMO, and should not be the guage of the style.
Can you go to a knife store, and handle some knives? Lots of younger guys get into the tactical folders, with SD in mind. I for one have never been in a knife fight, but need to carry a blade for cutting rope, packages, and wood when camping. None of those tasks are "tactical", so I carry EDC type fixed blades and a Case Canoe in my pocket.
 
One example of how the shape makes a difference is in how hawkbills and recurves cut rope better in draw cuts because the shape of the curve pulls the edge through the rope.
 
I like a drop point or a small skinner for field dressing game. For hunting I usually carry a knife combo of a field dressing and a small skinner. i also use a blade such as the "sharp finger" design when hunting. My EDC is usually a folder with a drop point or clip type blade in a 3 to 3 1/2 inch length, more of a general purpose knife. Good steel and a comfortable grip tied with quick easy openning.
 
Hawkbill and Straight edges work best for cutting line or rope , especially thinner hard synthetics. On a drop point or other curved edge those will tend to slide off and make it difficult to cut.

Doing detailed scroll cutting or opening blister packs is best done with a straight edge.

Cutting something relatively soft on a flat surface is the domain of a curved edge, also handy for for general purpose use as it usually presents a higher contact pressure at the edge which lets them cut easier, they're also the easiest to sharpen on a field knife.

Recurves (like the BM 710) IMO are the best all around design, their only real disadvantage is they're a pain to sharpen on my favorite benchstones due to the inside curve.
 
Certainly does matter.
A straight edge, like a wharncliffe or a sheepsfoot, or a blade with some recurve to it, will cut through rope & cord better.
An upswept blade, or a blade with lots of belly, will be much easier to use for skinning & butchering.
There are many more such examples...
 
Even the thickness of the blade behind its edge-bevel is a significant factor for cutting performance -depending on the task at hand.

These little details can make a huge difference when you consider long term knife use. Say you have to use your knife for hours at a time. If a thinner edge makes it just a little bit easier to make one cut, multiply that by a thousand cuts and apply those savings in power to muscle fatigue, hot spots, etc.
 
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