When sharpening your knives do you use honing oil, water or nothing?

Gollnick said:
On my Norton IC6 stone, I use Simple Green spray cleaner. I'm telling the truth. I got it from Wayne Goddard. He swears by it. It seems to work well and is not as messy as oil.

On water stones, water, of course.
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Do you use the Simple Green full strength, or do you use it diluted?

Bruceter
 
Well, that depends.

I use it full strength as it's intended to be used as a cleaner.

But, you can also buy it as a concentrate. I've never done that, but Wayne commented on it and said to dilute it with water according to the package directions before using it to sharpen with.
 
Hard post any addition to Jeff Clark's answer. It was very complete.

I will only add that on my india/silicon carbide combination stone I use thread cutting oil. I use my sharpmaker with no lubricants.
 
I do my sharpening on a dry ceramic benchstone and scrub it off with a wet scotch-brite pad intermittently.
On my coarse aluminum oxide stone ($10 from home hardware) I scrub it off with a toothbrush after use.
It's probably not ideal, but the stones stay clean enough to be quite usable.
 
Gollnick said:
Well, that depends.

I use it full strength as it's intended to be used as a cleaner.

But, you can also buy it as a concentrate. I've never done that, but Wayne commented on it and said to dilute it with water according to the package directions before using it to sharpen with.
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Thanks a bunch!

I am going to try this out.

Bruceter
 
I've used Razor Edge coarse stones for years and they work perfectly. Dry as Juranitch suggests. I just dust them off. I finish on a Sharpmaker.
 
I use nothing at all, on anything. I use water to clean my diamond, ceramic, and Arkansas stones, but I sharpen dry as a popcorn fart.
 
Teague said:
I appreciate the expert opinions here. In the book he doesn't talk much about dimond sharpeners. But, I don't think they were very common back then. I'm still a little unclear of some of his ideas. On page 17, he says that stainless steel is four times better at holding an edge than carbon steel.
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According to some experts on this forum, that is not right. Carbon is supposed to hold the edge longer and better than stainless. I would also very much like to hear what the forum has to say about that.
 
Wow, thanks for the responses. I guess the best method is to try it several ways and go with the one that works best.

I recently bought a couple of stainless steel Moras and a couple of high carbon Moras. I guess eventually I'll find out which holds an edge better.
 
stainless and carbon are too general. plus 'carbon' is often used to refer to non-stainless tool steels that can still be highly alloyed.
 
hardheart said:
stainless and carbon are too general. plus 'carbon' is often used to refer to non-stainless tool steels that can still be highly alloyed.
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That's what I was thinking too. I have some knives in D2 and they hold an edge just as well as most of my other knives.
 
Lately, I've been spraying my DMT diamond hones with water. I spray as little as needed to keep them wet during use. This is mostly to control the dust, to keep it confined to my table and not blowing around the apartment.
 
I don't use a wet diamond hone (except when I flush with a constant stream of running water) in order to protect the hone. I don't want little bits of broken diamond getting pushed back and forth on the hone damaging the diamonds. I want to have the hone dry and dust it off frequently or I want it constantly flushed. I figure slurried diamond dust will accelerate hone wear.
 
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