When to strop?

Op, this is generally a controversial subject especially with the sharpening "masters" ;)

I would suggest you take three or for of the same knife (like a cheap edc knife or one you use every day.) Put a polished edge on one, a "medium" edge on the other; so go to 400 grit and then strop, and a coarse finish on the other; I'm talking use the 120 or 240 and then LIGHTLY strop.


I'm sure you'll be able to draw your own conclusions from that little experiment. Don't forget a control though, use the same knife as it was from the factory.

I say buy 3 or 4 because if you use the same knife, there will be a lot of variables that you will be unable to control.

I've used all of the edge finishes you can imagine and loved a coarse edge for a while. After I had my first truly mirror polished knife, I will only create that type of edge from now on. A proper mirror edge will IN MY EXPERIENCE outlast a coarse edge (no mountain peaks to be ripped off).

Unless you need the microbevel, I say lose it. Like knifenut said, going from 50,000 grit to 1200 grit doesn't make sense; it's just a lot of wasted work. If you want a coarse edge, use the coarse belt. Most factories leave a very coarse edge NIB, so I'm sure you know what one feels like.

Good luck!
 
zyhano said:
after seeing people fly into each other's hair in the previous posts, I guess my advice would be to do what most of us do or have done:
experiment for yourself and check the statements made here on the forums for validity and for things you can use. Your experience, use and common sense will make you progress rapidly. Try seeing what happens to the edge with a magnifier when you do different things and in the end you'll achieve the things YOU want to achieve.
Click to expand...

+1 :thumbup:

It's a lot more fun this way, too. :)

I believe there are specific elements in everyone's 'toolbox' that work well. I have never believed there's only ONE way to properly sharpen a knife, nor is there any such thing as ONE AND ONLY ONE EXPERT. There are just too many variables involved, and an infinite variety of differing situations requiring different methods/tools/philosophies. I find it much more valuable to sift through the reported methods & techniques of as many enthusiasts as I can, and then try it for myself. People have been making & sharpening knives for thousands of years, using countless different techniques. And depending upon the situation, I bet each and every one of them has done it RIGHT, to fit their own needs.
 
theonew said:
What are you a cross between Sharp Phil and Josh K?
Click to expand...

I get it, you like to "sever" cardboard with your dull knife. You can do that because you are "the one":rolleyes:

And I always fancied myself as a cross between Ben Stein and John Rambo:p:D
 
To all responders to the posts questions thanks.
Knifenut, I strop of course not only the very edge but the whole bevel to reduce drag.
I began sharpening using Ben Dales method and he recommended steeling on ceramic,I also use Spyde Uf. I sharpen mostly 10" cheap kitchen knives that get steeled 1 hour after I'm gone ,and I'm hopping that the micro bevel helps determine the angle.On fish and meat knives I strop again. My problem is not with sharpness but with edge retention.
 
Heiheit said:
Op, this is generally a controversial subject especially with the sharpening "masters" ;)

I would suggest you take three or for of the same knife (like a cheap edc knife or one you use every day.) Put a polished edge on one, a "medium" edge on the other; so go to 400 grit and then strop, and a coarse finish on the other; I'm talking use the 120 or 240 and then LIGHTLY strop.


I'm sure you'll be able to draw your own conclusions from that little experiment. Don't forget a control though, use the same knife as it was from the factory.

I say buy 3 or 4 because if you use the same knife, there will be a lot of variables that you will be unable to control.

I've used all of the edge finishes you can imagine and loved a coarse edge for a while. After I had my first truly mirror polished knife, I will only create that type of edge from now on. A proper mirror edge will IN MY EXPERIENCE outlast a coarse edge (no mountain peaks to be ripped off).

Unless you need the microbevel, I say lose it. Like knifenut said, going from 50,000 grit to 1200 grit doesn't make sense; it's just a lot of wasted work. If you want a coarse edge, use the coarse belt. Most factories leave a very coarse edge NIB, so I'm sure you know what one feels like.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Heiheit great idea I SELL knives and I never did that:D
 
Heiheit, I've already done the test you recommend and posted my results in the Buck forum sometime back . You'd be suprised at the results . DM
 
mordi said:
To all responders to the posts questions thanks
Click to expand...

Ooops, sorry, got caught up arguing with Rambostein :D

I'm against stropping altogether. I don't like the idea of using a soft backed abrasive that can slide over the apex of the edge. I prefer to finish my edges using a very light stroke on lapped ceramic. This in my experience has produced the longest lasting edges.
 
knifenut1013 said:
So before you go putting thing's in BOLD get your story straight.
Click to expand...

*FACEPALM*

He actually didn't put anything in bold.....so before you going smarting off to a respect member perhaps you should know what you are talking about.

This is bold

*THESE ARE CAPITAL LETTERS*

See the difference? No wonder paper wheels stumped you and you're trolling several threads Richard J posts in.

knifenut1013 said:
Sometimes sharpness is not even a factor in a knifes ability to cut.
Click to expand...

Interesting I tried cutting with dull knives.....didn't work.
 
By definition, stropping is the final step in the sharpening process. We as knifeknuts have taken stropping a bit further by breaking it down into several more mini-steps using various grit compounds before the final strop on bare leather. I think we do that more for fun than anything else. The end results will always be the end results... :D

To answer your initial question; when should we strop? The answer is; when ever you want to. Not trying to be a smart ass here. The fact is, if you want to strop for a long time, you can get results going from a 400 grit stone to .5mic diamond compound on a piece of MDF and get a very good edge. It's just going to take you a LOT longer than if you went from a 4000 grit tape to that .5mic strop.

The result you are after is removing the scratch marks from the previous larger grit. The smaller the steps between each grit, the less time needed to remove those scratches. Regardless of the number of steps, if at the end you have removed the scratches, you wind up with a very good edge! :thumbup:

Personally, I like to use stones up to about 1200, then tapes up to 10,000, then CrO2, and finish with a bare horsehide strop. That gives me a perfect mirror finish, and takes about 20-30 minutes to go from dull to perfect edge. Most of that time is spent changing stones and strops. BUT..... I only do that with some blades.... :eek:

For my kitchen paring knife I prefer a slightly toothier edge. For the way I cut tomatoes a toothier edge works better. But for sushi, I want the most polished edge I can get! Other folks cut differently.

For my EDC I get better cutting action (cutting the sorts of things I generally encounter during an average day) with a polished edge on a very thin angle. For my bushcraft knife I prefer a thicker sharpening angle and a toothier edge.
EVERY KNIFE IS DIFFERENT. EVERY ITEM TO BE CUT REQUIRES ITS OWN TYPE OF EDGE. There is NO 'one best edge or angle' for everything. some folks always try to push cut while other folks always try to slice. Each requires a different type of edge. How do you cut?

Stitchawl
 
KarlMaldensNose said:
Sounds like a Jewish action hero.
Click to expand...

rambosteintheposter.jpg
 
Nice try bill....

mordi, cheap knives will get sharp but will never stay that way for long. Better knife steel would help.
 
Bill86 said:
*FACEPALM*

He actually didn't put anything in bold.....so before you going smarting off to a respect member perhaps you should know what you are talking about.

This is bold

*THESE ARE CAPITAL LETTERS*

See the difference? No wonder paper wheels stumped you and you're trolling several threads Richard J posts in.



Interesting I tried cutting with dull knives.....didn't work.
Click to expand...

Are you kidding me? You're calling him a troll? Both are very respected members who both know what they're talking about.
 
Heiheit said:
Are you kidding me? You're calling him a troll? Both are very respected members who both know what they're talking about.
Click to expand...

Nevertheless they do have some love/hate thingie going on...
I can see where the remark is coming from
 
like all storys you hear you only know the half of it.

The "silent comments" are that part of the story, I don't bring my personal issues with others out but I will defend myself against such comments.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top