Where do you buy materials for an axe head?

TigerBlades said:
how do you upload pictures?
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Look in the stickies for the thread "all the good info in one place" at the top of the Shop Talk page. The first post should be instructions on how to post pictures.
 
Forgot to mention it, but thank all you guys for all the info and tips. My knife hobby is less of a business, and more like "I heard (my name) makes knives, what's his etsy shop?" type of deal. Yes, my knives will improve. Yes, I like feedback, and Yes, you should go to- wait, that's not allowed.
 
TigerBlades said:
It gets heated up to non magnetic. . . The heat treat is good.
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How do you know this? Have you broken any of your blades to check the grain structure?
Have you read any of Dr Larrin Thomas's articles/book on heat treating? If not, I'll suggest starting there so you can at least be sure you are getting the best steel properties you can if not the best shape, design, fit and finish, etc...
 
1080 heat treatment isn't rocket science. While I respect your advice, I am sure my knives are fine. I also normalize them before the quench. Nice dog by the way.
 
I answered you in the other thread. With respect, I don't think you're really listening to the advice you've already gotten....

1080 HT isn't "rocket science"......but neither is it as simple as you apparently think. 500 temper is likely too high for one.

The book recommended above is WELL WORTH THE $...especially for someone starting out...

Bill
 
Explaining this to actual knife people is harder than I thought. One temper of 500F according to my knowledge gets it to around 60RC, and another gets it to around 57-58rc, the hardness of my favorite knife. Not to be ignorant, but I don't see anything wrong.
 
weo said:
Those numbers seem a bit high. I'm remembering that tempering at 500F will yield around 55.
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Yes, I'm thinking of 1095. This is why I'm here. Also, further talking should be done in my other thread, as this doesn't go into axe heads anymore.
 
billf said:
I answered you in the other thread. With respect, I don't think you're really listening to the advice you've already gotten....

1080 HT isn't "rocket science"......but neither is it as simple as you apparently think. 500 temper is likely too high for one.

The book recommended above is WELL WORTH THE $...especially for someone starting out...

Bill
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Also Mr Bill. In a year or so, when I'm a 150 dollar knife guy, how do you sell one bladeforums?
 
TigerBlades said:
Yes, I'm thinking of 1095.
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Well, for the sake of this conversation, this is is significantly closer to rocket science than 1080. Just heating to non-magnetic and quenching in canola oil is not a great way to HT 1095. IIRC, you need to get 1095 something like 175F hotter(?) than non-magnetic...


TigerBlades said:
how do you sell one bladeforums?
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Purchase a knifemaker/craftsman/service provider membership. Then you can talk buying & selling all you want.

Also, perhaps reading the forum rules in the stickies would be a good idea.
 
Tiger blades is right that in 1080, a 500°F temper will yield a hardness of Rc59-60. The second temper should not drop it more than one more point. This is assuming a full as-quenched hardness of around Rc64.
However, he is leaving a lot on the table with that temper. A 375-400°F temper is what I recommend. This will give a harder and longer lasting edge around Rc61.
Many folks assume that a small amount if increase in tempering range will cause a large drop in hardness. This isn't true for most simple steels until you cross 500°F. From as-quenched to 500°F most of the simple carbon steels drop only 5 points.

Of course, all his numbers are just anecdotal if he is not actually doing a proper hardness test.

I do agree that 1080 is not rocket science for HT. As the eutectoid steel, it will harden just fine with the minimum of effort. 1080 takes a little more than non-magnetic, though. It needs closer to 1475-1525°F to harden fully. That is a full shade redder than non-magnetic.

On the subject of "if you aren't breaking your blades you don't know if the HT is good", I will have to say that I disagree. I know many excellent makers who have never deliberately broken a blade to see if it is good. Proper testing and real-world use will also tell you if a blade is good.


Tiger, to sell on Bladeforums you need a Knifemaker member level membership. There is a sub-forum called The Exchange where things are sold.
In shop talk, only knifemaker level and higher members can discuss selling, customers, and show photos of the knives they are selling. Anyone else is free to post photos of knives they make but can't discuss selling them.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Tiger blades is right that in 1080, a 500°F temper will yield a hardness of Rc59-60. The second temper should not drop it more than one more point. This is assuming a full as-quenched hardness of around Rc64.
However, he is leaving a lot on the table with that temper. A 375-400°F temper is what I recommend. This will give a harder and longer lasting edge around Rc61.
Many folks assume that a small amount if increase in tempering range will cause a large drop in hardness. This isn't true for most simple steels until you cross 500°F. From as-quenched to 500°F most of the simple carbon steels drop only 5 points.

Of course, all his numbers are just anecdotal if he is not actually doing a proper hardness test.

I do agree that 1080 is not rocket science for HT. As the eutectoid steel, it will harden just fine with the minimum of effort. 1080 takes a little more than non-magnetic, though. It needs closer to 1475-1525°F to harden fully. That is a full shade redder than non-magnetic.

On the subject of "if you aren't breaking your blades you don't know if the HT is good", I will have to say that I disagree. I know many excellent makers who have never deliberately broken a blade to see if it is good. Proper testing and real-world use will also tell you if a blade is good.


Tiger, to sell on Bladeforums you need a Knifemaker member level membership. There is a sub-forum called The Exchange where things are sold.
In shop talk, only knifemaker level and higher members can discuss selling, customers, and show photos of the knives they are selling. Anyone else is free to post photos of knives they make but can't discuss selling them.
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Oh. Thank you. If it costs money, I might back off. Thank you for that. This is my first time being right in the discussion.
 
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