Where/ How to get an anvil surfaced

[Greenberg Woods]

Hey Guys, I just upgraded my anvil to a 290 pound Wright anvil. The face is pretty good, BUt i like it to be as close to dead flat as possible. What would you guys reccomend?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Just remember that anything you take off the face makes the hard steel part thinner, and thus more likely to deform. A machine shop can do the milling.

Unless it is severely damaged, leave it as-is and just clean up with a flap wheel.

 

[Lieblad]

Anvils should not be dead flat anyway. Its a forging by hand surface afterall.

 

[Jonathans]

I had my anvil resurfaced by a large scale machining company that used blanchard grinders.
Came out flat and smooth for $100

 

[Salem Straub]

I'm with Stacy, better to leave it as is if it's in decent shape. I dress mine a little now and then with a flap wheel if dings have gotten out of hand.

 

[oof]

Third for Stacy's fix. Congrats on the upgrade!

 

[Greenberg Woods]

Just remember that anything you take off the face makes the hard steel part thinner, and thus more likely to deform. A machine shop can do the milling.

Unless it is severely damaged, leave it as-is and just clean up with a flap wheel.

How much dip is too much?

 

[oof]

I've got a 145 that has a good 1/4" dip in it. Helps with straightening stuff, and there's plenty of sweet spot left.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

In a well used anvil, 1/8" is pretty normal and 1/4" is not uncommon. That would be over a 12" length.

 

[Greenberg Woods]

In a well used anvil, 1/8" is pretty normal and 1/4" is not uncommon. That would be over a 12" length.

I have maybe 5/32 accross 18 inches