Where to Get belts sander wheels?

chknifemaker

chknifemaker

Joined
Jun 30, 2013
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I looking for a 6" diameter drive wheel serrated and about 80 durometer...any ideas where to find one? how much it cost to have one made custom?
Thanks
 
when I built my grinder I put a 6" wheel on one end and an 8" on the other with a horizontal platen in between and i'm still kicking myself for not using a rubber 6" wheel, putting a piece of duct tape on the steel wheel works however
 
What sort of belt sander/grinder are you talking about specifically? Size of its belts? Type of motor, etc? How is it driven? By belt or directly mounting the wheel on the end of the motor shaft?

You've also confused me by asking about a serrated DRIVE wheel. Drive wheels (in my experience ymmv) are plain, slightly crowned metal. Contact wheels have rubber, felt or polyurethane coatings on them to cushion whatever you're grinding. Serrated contact wheels run cooler and can be worked harder then smooth wheels btw. So are we talking a contact wheel or a drive wheel here?

Hopefully you can be more specific about EXACTLY what you're needing and, communally or even individually, point you in the right direction.

For example (and I'm not trying to diss you at all here): A 2" x 72" GRINDER would be one thing. A 3" x 21" is another altogether. (Regardless of size: Sanders are, normally, thought to be for working wood. Grinder refers, most often, to working metal.)

Maybe some pictures are in order to help us help you here.

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
chknifemaker said:
I looking for a 6" diameter drive wheel serrated and about 80 durometer...any ideas where to find one? how much it cost to have one made custom?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Have you tried using goggle searches.?

This particular answer is not to hard to find - several times over.
 
Sorry for some of the confusion......
I'm making a horizontal machine(grinder)(like what Beaumont metal works had but I can't find it now...why?) and I want a wheel that can be ground on for fast metal removal and it will be mounted directly to the motor
I want to use 2x72" belts....I have done some Goggling but all I have found have bearings in them.
Thanks guys.....
 
So let me see if I've got this right. You're building a horizontal grinder.

You're going to use the serrated contact wheel as the drive wheel too and we're not worrying about the other wheels at all.

I think we need some pictures of what you've done so far. Or, alternatively, a list of the parts you have in hand now. The motor for example........... what are you using and what's the diameter of the shaft? That would be a good place to start. I think you're talking some serious coin here myself but maybe I'm just clueless.

Yuppppppppppppp pics. Post them...............

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
It will be easier on you if you change your design to include a separate drive wheel, of if at least the contact/drive wheel does not need to be serrated. Serration does not make that big a difference, especially in hard durometer rubber.

Sunray I'm sure could make it, either way- but you might not like the cost.

Another way of doing it would be to use all free-coasting wheels (bearings) for the belt to run on. Then, position your motor with a standard metal drive wheel so that it drives your contact wheel directly by friction from the inside- like a tire hammer. I guess this would help, if you are wanting all of the wheels the belt rides over to be contact wheels.

Also, why do you want your drive wheel to be 6"? I can only see that being very desirable if the grinder will be single speed, with a 1725 rpm motor. Which to me, is not that desirable. If that's the case, I'd say save the money it would take to order a custom drive wheel, buy a cheaper standard drive wheel, and spend the extra money on a VFD.

Or, a local machine shop, if they are any good, should be able to discuss options for fitting an idler style contact wheel to fixed operaton on your motor shaft.
 
Just to clarify for those who don't know, in several type of grinder/sander setups the drive wheel is a contact wheel...and is rubber coated.

Serrated vs smooth would be an entirely different discussion.
 
Why use a metal drive wheel over a rubber coated one?

I haven't started one(sorry if I implied that) but I am designing one and trying to decide: how much it would cost, what would I want it to do....

This what I was thinking of

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee396/DanielFairlyKnives/044-13.jpg

It has a rubber Drive/contact wheel(at least I assume?) and I wanted it to be a serrated.....

Is there something radically wrong with this?

Thanks Guys!
 
Thats a great looking grinder, It looks like it lacks in tool rest height adjustability, If you used 4 inch wide wheels you could solve that problem
 
Maybe Daniel Fairly will check in and tell us which wheel is the drive wheel. Dandy looking horizontal grinder but I can't tell if it's the rubber clad wheel or the metal wheel doing the driving.

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
Thing is, in that picture the drive wheel (which has a rubber surface, and serves for contact as well) is smaller than 6" and is not serrated. It's an altogether easier wheel to find with a solid bured hub, and cheaper to buy. You have found out for yourself that a solid/bored hub wheel with a rubber tire, in a 6" diameter, and furthermore with a serrated surface, will be much harder to find/will cost you a lot more.

I'm just saying, you will save yourself some trouble if the tire at least does not have to be serrated. You can save more trouble yet, if the wheel can be 4" in diameter instead of 6", and the path of least resistance would likely be to go with a non-contact drive wheel.

If you want a grinder like the one pictured, but with a 6" serrated rubber tire drive wheel, you will have to pay more and/or be more resourceful is all.
 
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