Where to get metal?

Cauldra said:
I was just at Lowes for other things when I came across this small area of different metal bits. I noticed amoung the metal that is heat rolled, perfect shape and dimensions, and I could pick from what was there. I couldn't find what kind of steel it was. It was advertised mainly for welders. Is this good, or should I just order stuff from online? I would rather just go back and get that stuff if it is decent.
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No good for knives. It is likely mild steel that will not harden.
 
It's most likely just mild steel - probably 1018 - and does not have enough carbon content to be heat treatable. You should really contact one of the many suppliers mentioned and get real blade steel. Most of the heat treaters, like Texas Knife Supply, will heat treat air quenchable steels like A2 and 440C.
I heat treat my own, so I can't recommend a person or company that does oil quenchable. But, if you go that route O1 and 5160 are 2 popular steels. The 5160 is a very popular 'beginners steel' if you're going to forge your blade.

Good luck -
 
I've never had a problem with Jantz .

I get nearly all my steel from Kelly Cupples, he has great service and prices.
 
When i order on line i have found that www.flatground.com is the cheapest and fast to deal with. but most of the times I just order straight from crucible but thy do have a minimum order amount which is like 75 bucks. but I have a local place that is just amazing to deal with and he supply's all the steel to our shop. i was talking to him and he has tons of drop offs in all the steel i like that he will sell to me for cheep as i forge and can work with most any size. very good prices to, better then online and i don't have to wait and pay shipping.
 
I noticed flat stock at Home Depot and asked the person working what kind of steel it was. He had no idea. I bought some, 4 feet at 2" wide for like $13. Wil this harden? Sure is easy to grind/file...
 
Shinglowping said:
I noticed flat stock at Home Depot and asked the person working what kind of steel it was. He had no idea. I bought some, 4 feet at 2" wide for like $13. Wil this harden? Sure is easy to grind/file...
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It has already been stated in this post that it is NO GOOD for knives. Some people buy it to practice grinding as it is cheap but that is it.
 
It makes ok guards/buttcaps etc if you blue it real good. You got enough for a heckuva lotta guards, Shinglowping :D
 
as to the "lowes" idea: If your going to be a knife maker you have to get out of that "hurry" mode. take a couple of more days , get ahold of Kelly Cupples as suggested and get started right.

Just a thought.
TCovel
 
Thanks guys. I feel like an ass now lol. I ground out a nice full tang. Live and learn. I will not hurry. I shall enjoy the journey as much as the destination.
 
Sounds like you have a great attitude. Take a long hard look at that blank you ground. See what might have been better, enjoy all you did right. Revel in the fact that you started something most never even try. Balance it in your hand... try drilling or grinding out the tang to make the balance more lively. If you wreck it, so what? You learned something ;)

Now grind another one from that bar, what the heck, it's paid for, and you have plenty. Make it better than the first.

Meanwhile, order some cutlery steel :D
 
As for the mild steel you have, you might try making a few letter openers. It requires all the same skills as making a knife except for the heat treating. Good practice. I notice you are in Canada. I have a friend in Victor BC who has told me that there are few problems shipping from there to the US. But, from the US to Canada, there seems to be some customs problems. You may need to find a steel supplier in Canada. Crucible Steel may have a Canadian outlet. And you could try Admiral - they have a blade steel department that may be familiar with shipping to Canada.

Good luck and welcome to the addiction!!
 
OK so I found a place online that is inside Canada. Close enough to me to make a roadtrip even. They offer a whole variety of different metals in different dimensions. They offer "Hot Rolled" steel in 1018, 1045 and A36. Are any of these acceptable for knife making? I have 2 blanks I've ground out now and would like very much to make a blade that isnt a dud.


Here is a link to the site. Thanks guys.
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/msc-company.aspx
 
I'm not seeing anything in their "alloy" and "stainless" sections that I would recommend.
In the "tool steel" section, they have 01, A2 and D2, all of which are well-known proven cutlery steels. :thumbup: Heat-treating insctructions for all 3 are readily available.
 
Thank JT. Looking into it now. Which of the three do you believe is best for starting out?
 
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Well, that depends, :D For stock-removal, all 3 should work fine. If you were forging, I don't think you'd want to start with higher-alloy steels like A2 or D2, 01 would be the way to go.

The main difference is that 01 (a high-carbon tool steel) wants to be quenched in oil. To be honest I've never used it , but many experienced smiths recommend 01 as being easy to HT well without a lot of fancy equipment. You can finds plans for a small forge to heat it up on these forums somewhere. 01 is not very corrosion resistant, but if you take care of your tools, that shouldn't be a big factor.

A2 and D2 are air-hardening steels that require a longer soak at higher temperature. Generally this means you'd want a proper furnace or kiln. But if you only make a few knives, you can send them out for heat-treating. Check your phone book, there may be a machine shop nearby that would HT them for you.

All three are highly respected for various reasons; I would choose based on your heat-treating plans.
 
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At point of purchase will they be in a workable state? Or will they need to be softened? Thank you for your help.
 
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