Where to "out source"

Bruce Bump

Bruce Bump

Joined
Dec 2, 1999
Messages
9,910
I am taking on a 100 knife order for a slip folder. They will need to be cut out and a silver logo inlayed into the handles. Which methods and who could I have cut out the parts? They will also be numbered so I need 100 stencils made? Ive always done "one of a kind" so this will be very interesting for me.

Any and all suggestions are welcome. I would really like to keep all this in the USA if possible.
 
Bruce; As far as the stencils get a roll of the stencil paper from McMaster-Carr and a old manual typewriter and make them up yourself. :)
 
IG, maybe it just my cheap typewritter but the numbers dont look very good. Isnt there somebody that makes affordable stencils. I could use the stencils for the next 100 knifes.

Michael, It is an old design so the materials will be carbon and nickel silver.
 
Marking Methods of Alhambra CA makes machines and stencils, that is a pain to acid mark that kind of numbers. You get 6 stencils for about $30 plus artwork charge. You get about 10-50 marks per stencil, depends on depth of etch.

I have a card for a lady named Terry Sleeper in Royal City that has a business called Eagle Eye Lasering. 509-346-1804, 509-989-0785. I haven't talked to the person but I think that would be a possibility. Spyderco nests ten to 12 pieces on a templet board for the model and burns a board full at a time. about $3-5 a mark.

Larkin Percision in Kent will grind a minimum of 200 pieces but has a list of vendors that they deal with for heat treating, laser. and waterjet cutting. They did advertise in Blade for a while. I don't have their number. They also have polishing availible. They do work for several major name companies...Good Luck...Ed
 
Bruce Bump said:
IG, maybe it just my cheap typewritter but the numbers dont look very good. Isnt there somebody that makes affordable stencils. I could use the stencils for the next 100 knifes.

Michael, It is an old design so the materials will be carbon and nickel silver.
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I assume you mean carbon steel not carbon fiber?

If you send me a pattern i can get a quote for lasering the blanks for you. I also may be able to laser etch the serial number on each blade before it cuts out the profile. There is some considerations as far as the depth of the etch and the steel you are using, I can give you more info if I have the particulars of the design.

You could also engrave the serial number with a Hermes Engraver. They have the manual ones on ebay all the time and they are sometimes very resonable. I have one and it works great. There are no stencils to screw with. I can post a pic later of an engraved logo that was done on the machine that i have if you need to see it.

Edited to add.....

The revolver model on my web site has an engraved logo. It is on the Available page, second from the top.

Let me know?
 
The cutout could be done with a waterjet, depending on the hardness of the material, cut tolerances of .005" or better are possible.

Laser cutting would be more accurate but is more expensive.

Sandblasting the pocket for the inlay would be possible but tolerances could be a problem.

Using an engraver with a pantograph setup or computer controlled will handle simple shapes like script and depth can be controlled easily.

Casting the inlay from lost wax or stamping it from sheet would be my method of choice. The stamping however has a tooling cost associated with it, usually substantial where lost wax is primarily labour involved in reproducing the logo in wax and preparing it for casting, material cost will be involved in either case.

Send the stencil makers a sheet of numbers 1-100 with adequate spacing to allow them to be used individually and let the stencil maker make up as many sheets of stencils as it takes or ask for one very large sheet with all of the numbers on it.

Laser etching of the numbers and your logo gives a very clean sharp mark and is flexible as far a programming and sizing. Having both done at the same time will improve appearance of the finished product. I have some laser work done at the local sports trophy supply house, they have a laser on site.

Good luck with the project.
 
Mark Williams said:
Can the same laser be used to do the logo/serial and cutting?
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Absolutly, all in the same program at the same time. Cut the internal holes, etch the serial number and the logo and cut the outside profile. Cutting Stainless with nitrogen will give you a burr free edge that looks like it was machined.

Programming time to draw and sequence would be very expensive....If I didnt know how to do it myself that is.
I also do the programming for the 2 lasers and an Amada Punch press. It comes in very handy when i need a real quick piece for say... a forging press Im making. :D
 
adammichael said:
Absolutly, all in the same program at the same time. Cut the internal holes, etch the serial number and the logo and cut the outside profile. Cutting Stainless with nitrogen will give you a burr free edge that looks like it was machined.

Programming time to draw and sequence would be very expensive....If I didnt know how to do it myself that is.
I also do the programming for the 2 lasers and an Amada Punch press. It comes in very handy when i need a real quick piece for say... a forging press Im making. :D
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dang Mike I hope I didn't get on your bad side talking about things like
press'es or something like that :D

I think I smell something on the end of my nose :eek: :D does it look ....brownish :)
 
Dan Gray said:
dang Mike I hope I didn't get on your bad side talking about things like
press'es or something like that :D

I think I smell something on the end of my nose :eek: :D does it look ....brownish :)
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So your saying you like my design now and I was right?? HMMM?:D

let me know if I can help Dan, I owe you for sending me that extra ruby. I never did find it but when I do...It coming back atchya!
 
adammichael said:
So your saying you like my design now and I was right?? HMMM?:D


let me know if I can help Dan, I owe you for sending me that extra ruby. I never did find it but when I do...It coming back atchya!
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never said I didn't like it Mike..on the contrary, it's a dam nice piece of work. :D it was a terms / misunderstanding issue, the 2x4 explanation and lack of lag bolts through me big time.. :D

I have some diamonds and CZ's here too if in need Mike :)
 
Dan Gray said:
dang Mike I hope I didn't get on your bad side talking about things like
press'es or something like that :D
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Thats how I like to see my girls. Play nice you 2 :D :D
 
blgoode said:
ahh man!!! touche' :D :thumbup:
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buttcheeks.gif

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Hello,
I was a shop superviser until 3 years ago. The company I worked for, (Lynndale Stainless Prod.) have a couple lasers. I also ran the programing. we cut knives for a few popular knife makers and depending on your drawing it isn't always expensive on the programing. they charge a flat fee for basic programing. they can work with .dwg, dxf, or even scan in a drawing, or business card. With a nice .dxf the program for the laser, depending on how complicated it was (peirce points, head raises if needed, geometry of the part, etc.) maybe a half hour. after that on reorders you only pay for cutting time. cutting is fast.
I don't usually post too much but I have run the lasesrs cutting liners, blades, bolsters, etc and at least know a little on the subject. jmho don't want to step on any toes :)
 
I've been looking for some time
to have some done too
the last place I checked for water jetting wanted me to pay for their unit all at once I think..
like $8.00 for each part and that was a simple blade back bar and liners.
and I wanted 400 parts,, 100 hundred of each..I told them I could hire a man and to it at that rate.. :rolleyes:
$3.00 each sounds like a reasonable price to me for watter jetting.
what pricing are you guys seeing? TX
 
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