Where to start? First HI choice.

Sounds like the kharakhulak is very similar to the khukuri. One of the most basic tools a person would own, for chopping anything that needs chopped.

Also, I wouldn't worry about what type of tang you get. IMO at least, both types of tangs are actually equal in strength. It's the attachment of the wood/horn that's stronger on chiruwas, but the steel parts are equal. And on shock absorption, that really depends on the specific blade. My Tibetan Sword has a full tang, and actually, the bolster rings like a bell if you chop anything, while the exposed tang doesn't transmit any vibration at all. It takes a little getting used to.
 
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karakulaks are the 'villager' yataghans - "karakulak" = "black ears" after the eared black horn grips. karakulak is also the name of a carnivore with black tufted ears - caracal in english.

here's mine:
yat1.jpg

that was as it arrived from bulgaria, it's been cleaned up a bit since then.
21" blade is about 1 1/4" wide x 1/4" thick. sadly no scabbard.

oh, and this is the cat:
karakulak-kedisi_psdG.jpg
 
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C.S. Graves said:
Ahh, what we call a caracal in the west I think.
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yup - see my 1st sentence ;)

apparently they tame easily and can be used for hunting. (cheetahs also domesticate easily)
i wonder how blue and millie would like a cat buddy.

they weigh about 25lb -female, 30-40 lb. male. big puddy tats.

b.c.molin said:
Thank you kronckew for the extra info as my google search got me nothing...
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oddly, if you search google images with 'karakulak sword' the first two that come up are mine :) (at least the search i just did) one of them is actually a khyber knife (salawar yataghan), the google slurp spider picked up the wrong label. have a look on youtube under karakulak and/or bulgarian custom knives - two videos there. there must be a source of new ones in bulgaria somewhere...
 
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Quick, someone convince me that the hidden tang khukuris are just as tough as the full tang version. I want one that I can chop the h*ll out of wood with for a lifetime and NEVER have the handle loosen. I've never trusted hidden tang knives/swords to not loosen at an inopportune moment.
Someone please prove my concerns unfounded, as the 18" Ang Khola really speaks to me.
 
Jaymo said:
Quick, someone convince me that the hidden tang khukuris are just as tough as the full tang version. I want one that I can chop the h*ll out of wood with for a lifetime and NEVER have the handle loosen. I've never trusted hidden tang knives/swords to not loosen at an inopportune moment.
Someone please prove my concerns unfounded, as the 18" Ang Khola really speaks to me.
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My first H.I. was/is a 20" Ang Khola with an internal tang. I've been using it heavily for about 5 years and it's held up wonderfully.

If you were to see one of these khukuris without a handle, the tang at the bolster is nearly as wide as the blade at that point and it tapers sharply to the end cap. It's not a scale tang but it might as well be.

Handle components loosening can happen. Even with a chiruwa (scale tang) handle. With one of the internal tang models you just heat up the end cap or bolster (whichever is loose) with a candle to melt the Laha and then let it harden again. Easy fix. One of my chiruwa khukuris has a pin a bit loose on the handle but it's still holding together so I'm not concerned. If it becomes an issue, then a new micarta handle is in its future.

But don't worry about the blade or tang on either ever breaking. It could happen but it's not too doggone likely. These things are tough.
 
I'll also have to say I have a Camillus 'KaBar' that I've been using and abusing for over 20 years and it's still as strong as ever. That knife just flat refuses to die.

Internal tangs when made properly are plenty strong.
 
I can't argue with any of you on those points. I keep forgetting how THICK these HI Khuks are.
The Bonecutter, M-43, and the WWII are speaking to me, as well. Problem is they all say the same thing. "Buy ME!"

I think if I can get an 18" Bonecutter with a 1/2" thick blade, or an 18" CAK with a 1/2" thick blade, OR an 18" AK, I'll feel much better.

Too bad they can't import the "Nepali epoxy" laha to us. Then we could use it, if necessary, for repairs.

Good point about the USMC KaBar. I have one and love it. I also have an older (about 1983) KaBar Marine Hunter that's been through Hell as well as a 1985 USAF pilot's survival knife that's seen hard use, too. I wouldn't trade them for the world. They're just as tight now as they were when I was an early teen.

SO, does either handle design hold up better (on the HI Khuks), and if so, which one?
 
I think the limitations on strength you'd see with either style of handle would be on the handle material itself and not the tang. Failure such as that could happen with either style handle, but I'd think it would be a bit more likely with the internal tang models.

I have both and the only difference I've noted in use is that the chiruwa (scale tang) style helps balance out a longer/heavier blade. On the other hand, you'll probably feel a little more shock transferred into your hand during using one of those.

As for the laha, you could probably mix up something similar by mixing hot pine sap with wood ash like they used to do in the old days.
 
Yeah, Wolf is right, the handles will fail long before the tang will.

The reason I prefer the Chiruwa style is that my handle making skills suck. I'm pretty sure I could make a serviceable pair of scales, but not so sure I could get a standard handle mounted correctly.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
Yeah, Wolf is right, the handles will fail long before the tang will.

The reason I prefer the Chiruwa style is that my handle making skills suck. I'm pretty sure I could make a serviceable pair of scales, but not so sure I could get a standard handle mounted correctly.
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What I would do is replace the bolster, which in most H.I. models is merely brass sheet metal, with something more substantial - such as a solid piece of brass shaped to have a small guard in front and drilled & filed for a flush fit to the tang and beginning of the blade.

I'd make the main part of the handle with smaller pieces of wood/micarta of about 1/4" thick separated by thin segments of brass of about 1/8" thick, putting them on one at a time making sure each piece fits tightly. And using some epoxy too. In the case of a chitlangi's domed end cap, I'd carve out a piece of wood to fill the hollow area inside. Then I'd just re-peen the tip of the tang, shape the handle with some creative dremel work, and be done.

Or I'd go the route of stacked leather washers, which is tempting too.

This would be a lot easier than trying to drill out a solid piece of wood to fit the tang, and it would look groovy too.
 
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