I seen that one, it’s supposed to be an improved version of 5160. What is it like to work with?
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Which blade steel do you enjoy working with the most?
- Thread starter TheEdge01
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2006
- Messages
- 541
I have been trying out a variety of steel including O1, 1084, 80Crv2, 15N20, 52100, AEBL, 440C, Elmax, 1095. 8670 has been my favorite for a few reasons. It machines great for me. Drilling is a breeze, and pre-heat treat grinding is also smooth. For what ever reason, 1084., O1 and 80CrV2 were harder for me to grind pre-heat treat. The 'feeling' I got was that they were sticky on the grinder. Post heat treat just seems to click easier for me.
The patina after acid etch is lighter grey compared to 80CrV2 and O1 which seem to get darker to me.
I have a simple old Paragon kiln that only gets to 1600F max, so it fits within my capabilities. It comes out tough.
Stromberg Knives
strombergknives.com
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- Jan 3, 2015
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- 856
These are my thoughts on the subject.
8670 (high carbon)
It's a very tough steel available in most thicknesses, I use it for hunters, machetes, daggers and fighters. It's also easy enough to work when heat treated.
52100 (high carbon)
It's a pretty balanced steel I use for high carbon kitchen knives (and kiridashis). It's not the worst when it comes to stains and you can get it rather sharp. It's also a treat to work with when heat treated, and it finishes well.
14C28N (stainless)
Like 52100 I think it's a balanced steel, not the greatest in any discipline, more of a jack of all trades. According to Larrins testing it scores pretty well in the stainless discipline, it gets rather hard, holds a pretty fine edge and finishes great.
1095/420 or O2/420 (stainless San Mai)
This is my go to for San Mai, depending on the availability of thicknesses I tend to use them interchangeably. The stainless 420 cladding will give a nice contrast to the 1095 or O2 high carbon steel when etched.
8670 (high carbon)
It's a very tough steel available in most thicknesses, I use it for hunters, machetes, daggers and fighters. It's also easy enough to work when heat treated.
52100 (high carbon)
It's a pretty balanced steel I use for high carbon kitchen knives (and kiridashis). It's not the worst when it comes to stains and you can get it rather sharp. It's also a treat to work with when heat treated, and it finishes well.
14C28N (stainless)
Like 52100 I think it's a balanced steel, not the greatest in any discipline, more of a jack of all trades. According to Larrins testing it scores pretty well in the stainless discipline, it gets rather hard, holds a pretty fine edge and finishes great.
1095/420 or O2/420 (stainless San Mai)
This is my go to for San Mai, depending on the availability of thicknesses I tend to use them interchangeably. The stainless 420 cladding will give a nice contrast to the 1095 or O2 high carbon steel when etched.
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2013
- Messages
- 3,227
I don't know if "enjoy" is the right word, but for the past several years I have been using quite a bit of CPM S110V. It is a pain in the rear to profile, a beast to finish. But I find that it works well with ceramic belts and sharp files. I grind relatively thin and hand sand to high grit BEFORE sending it to Peters' for HT with (so far) no warps or wiggles, saving end finishing time.
For me it is a known entity and the rust resistance and cutting ability at RC 62-63 is worth the effort!
On the flip side, AEB-L is a absolute joy to work with
For me it is a known entity and the rust resistance and cutting ability at RC 62-63 is worth the effort!
On the flip side, AEB-L is a absolute joy to work with