Spey, which works better for processing wood for a fire?
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Which Cold Steel Hawk is your favorite?
- Thread starter dogstar
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That answer lies in the hands of the user, and how they choose to "process wood".
Example Considerations:
1) The thicker geometry of that Norse Hawk (photos above) wedges wood more effectively, while the geometry of that Frontier Hawk bites deeper. So, if for example a user likes/chooses to split wood standing on a chopping block the thicker geometry is gonna pop the rounds better with less stick (where I go, never have a chopping block so negates this potential benefit).
2) Same exact principal when cross-cutting, the thicker geometry is gonna pop chunks sideways to a greater degree clearing a bucking V. Easily compensated for by simply initiating a smaller V initially, then expanding.
3) One works better with a baton than the other.
4) One is heavier than the other (better for some things, not for others).
5) Each has strong & weak points when using head removed from haft. Example: pole-less Frontier-Hawk fits comfortably in palm of hand Ulu-style for various push-cutting tasks feather-sticking, etc., whilst the extended pole on a Pipe-Hawk or Trail-Hawk make a nice striking surface for a baton when held as a chisel in hammer grip.
I started daily carrying a hawk on my pack ten plus years ago. Initially began with the Pipe Hawk because it seemed to make sense to have a hammer-pole (obviously makes a good hammer, chisel, and also to balance the energy of the bit in relation to the haft when assembled), but it was not long after I found a Frontier Hawk suited my uses much better. I find the lighter weight (increased acceleration/speed), taller bit (edge length), marginally shorter bit (center of haft to edge), and minimized pole to be advantageous combination to my uses. I would have simply cut the pole off a Pipe-Hawk, except for when you actually compare the other aspects of the two.
A friend of mine prefers the Trail Hawk. However, it is commonplace for him to be disappointed with the performance when using for fire-building, and choose to leave behind for other options. Example: The short edge length really leaves this hawk wanting when it comes to actual work performance I.M.O. (many more strikes required bucking & chopping). Those sexy looks are an energy whore in my experience.
Off the shelf they all kinda suck ..., compared to one that has been optimized for the users specific applications (haft coating removal & treatment, reprofile edge, handle length adjustment, head to haft fitment including loosing that stupid Allen set screw, sheath, etc.). Without these modifications, performance & user appreciation is sure to be left wanting.
Repeat:
"I would suggest buying (or getting into hand ...) any/all of the models that interest you, and making your own observations as there are many differences that many folks ignore, overlook, have no use for, etc."
This would give you multiple handles (replacements for potential breakage, varied handle length options 16"-22"), and heads to compare based on your applications.
"Better" ... ; is best accomplished via the hand of the tool using the tool, than the tool itself.
EDIT: if all you want to do is "processing wood for a fire"
I would look at the Rifleman's-Hawk (beast heavy for a hawk) or Hudson Bay Hawk, and also consider picking up a longer 30" haft from a Viking Hand or Battle Axe.
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Spey, thanks for your detailed reply! It's always great to hear experience from actual use. I have to FH and the HBH. Interested in the TH (currently sold out), but was wary of the small bit. And yes, the TH is very sexy!
I find the HBH good for making a fire, like you mentioned, but I'm always looking to save weight.
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Those last two words so significant to my choice of FH, otherwise I would carry my Michigan Pattern Axe from childhood.
Already owning a FH & HBH I would recommend fine tuning each to application. Some mod's listed above should result in joyful rewards (assuming you've already removed the factory handle coating & seasoned the handles to preference, reprofiling edges to thin them out, and a 30" haft in that HBH would be my focus recommendations. Adding a little texture to the grip portion of haft (FH above) is something I learned many decades ago with my rigging axes on framing sites.
When I get a CS hawk, standard procedure is to
- remove the screw
- deburr the eye
- friction fit the head
- reprofile the bit
- make a 90 degree angle to strike fire steel
They are cheap and require TLC to reach full potential.
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I only have two. Frontier and Rifleman. I transitioned into dedicated hatchet and axes during this period. I like the Frontier as a lightweight tinder preper, and the Rifleman for thicker materials. I sawed/ground off the hammer on the Rifleman, and this hawk was then closer to North American fur trade hatchet/axes then, by size and weight. The Rifleman always looked and felt more robust, in the head, and the shaft/haft, whatever you want to call it. I took the heads off the shafts, sanded the inside of the heads, applied liquid silicone caulking inside them, and on the upper shaft. I seated them with force, wiped off any excessive caulking, then cranked in the set screw. Then they where left in a warm closet for a week or so to set and cure. I have used them both occasionally, moderately hard. Neither has loosened and both are still rock solid on the shafts, after at least 10-12 years. I will slather the shaft up with Linseed oil every few years or so. They always struck me as reliable, good value for the money, fun tools.
Thanks for your reply. I like the looks of the rifleman mod. I see that you put the heavier head on the shorter handle, which is the opposite of what I would do, but I guess it just feels right for your purposes. I agree, CS haws are good, inexpensive tools that just beg to be personalized.I only have two. Frontier and Rifleman. I transitioned into dedicated hatchet and axes during this period. I like the Frontier as a lightweight tinder preper, and the Rifleman for thicker materials. I sawed/ground off the hammer on the Rifleman, and this hawk was then closer to North American fur trade hatchet/axes then, by size and weight. The Rifleman always looked and felt more robust, in the head, and the shaft/haft, whatever you want to call it. I took the heads off the shafts, sanded the inside of the heads, applied liquid silicone caulking inside them, and on the upper shaft. I seated them with force, wiped off any excessive caulking, then cranked in the set screw. Then they where left in a warm closet for a week or so to set and cure. I have used them both occasionally, moderately hard. Neither has loosened and both are still rock solid on the shafts, after at least 10-12 years. I will slather the shaft up with Linseed oil every few years or so. They always struck me as reliable, good value for the money, fun tools.
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Thank you sir. Actually the Rifleman has its original handle. I used to whack firewood with it down by a lake for a year or two.
That's right... I forgot they used to ship with short handles. Ahh, the good old days
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The good old days indeed.That's right... I forgot they used to ship with short handles. Ahh, the good old days
Original Cold Steel products have given me a lot of wonderful memories. 
