which drill bit do you like for drilling out hidden tangs?

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standard drill bit but just a longer length?
brad point? or ....?

just curious what the pros here use.

thanks
 
Yes. "Aircraft" length. I usually start the hike with a jobber length.

I'm thinking about trying to design a drill guide fixture that you could use with an extended length endmill to work out the material between two drilled holes.
 
Gonna follow this cause I just got some blocks of wood and no way to cut them into scales unless I decide to use a hacksaw. But I think this would be interesting to learn
 
Not sure I understand your question...
Anyway, typically I use standard splitpoint twist drills, jobber length for just about everything. Sometimes extra length, Aircraft length, almost never.

In your query, you mention "bradpoint", not sure what that is.
But fwiw, a huge amount of my extra length drills are stepped point (and QC shanked too) as they were surplused from Boeing back in the day when you could buy their surplus tooling at 10$/lb.
 
Forstner bits and Brad points. Twist bits will too easily deflect in hard or burly woods. Brad points get extra dig and let's you actually drill where you want to.
 
Lieblad said:
Not sure I understand your question...
Anyway, typically I use standard splitpoint twist drills, jobber length for just about everything. Sometimes extra length, Aircraft length, almost never.

In your query, you mention "bradpoint", not sure what that is.
But fwiw, a huge amount of my extra length drills are stepped point (and QC shanked too) as they were surplused from Boeing back in the day when you could buy their surplus tooling at 10$/lb.
Click to expand...

2u9ptee.jpg
 
I use a really small drill for my pilot hole, it usually goes pretty close to where i want it, Then I use a drill about .02 smaller than what my finish size is. I space these holes far enough apart that they will not wander into each other. Usually it is about 3 separate holes. I break out the webbing and use a modified sheet rock saw as a broach. It has taken me about 20 handles and a couple years to get proficient at it.
edit to add: harbor freight 115 pc drill index was like 40$. This is using a little crappy drill press. The brad points work well but without accurate equipment it can be a pain getting it to spin true.
 
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The angle for a wood bit is different than a metal bit. Brad point bits are made for drilling wood, as are specifically made wood bit sets from places like Woodcraft. Brad point is easy to start and they don't wander like a metal bit can.

Here is a trick that really makes drilling a through hole in a handle block simple with a bit that is shorter than the block.
It works especially well for drilling Bowie blocks where the hole may go at an angle through the block, and where the ends are not parallel. The same trick works for drilling long pieces of turning stock for the lathe. Even on blocks that are short enough for the bit to drill all the way through, it assures the hole goes from end to end as desired.

Take a 2X4 and clamp it in the drill press vise or on the drill press table with some C-clamps.
Put a 1/4" brad point drill bit in the chuck and drill a hole an inch deep in the wood.
Take a 2" piece of 1/4" round stock and grind one end into a point, then stick it in the hole with the point up. This point will now align with the drill bit.
Back the table down until there is room for the handle block to fit between the bit and the point. If your table moves from side to side when lowered, remove the bit and place a long piece of round stock in the chuck to adjust the alignment so the point of the lower pin aligns with the long rod.
When the table is aligned and locked, remove the round rod and put in the drill bit again.
Mark the spot you want the hole to be on each end of the handle block.
Place one mark on the lower point, and the drill bit ( brad point is best) on the upper spot.
Drill a little past half way and then reverse the block.
Place the pointed pin in the hole you drilled and drill from the other end, aligning the mark with the drill bit.

This will drill a near perfect hole through a longer block that the drill bit.
 
thanks for that Kevin, Those look very ideal for the way I have been doing it too.
 
Pen drills. 6mm or 7mm from Colt or Fisch in my case. Designed for hardwood and acrylic end grain drilling. Use a home made 3-tooth broach to key hole top and bottom of the single central drilled hole.
 
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