Which Edge Pro?

I have been using the Apex for about 8 years, and love it. I still wish I had the Pro, but the Apex is enough for me. I've re-ordered more rough stones than I can shake a stick at, when I re-profile big blades, I usually go through a rough stone in 2 - 3 knives. But I'm leaning on it pretty hard. Come to think of it, as hard as I've used my Apex, I'm amazed it's held up so well. Wouldn't be without it!
 
same here with the 100 stones. I go through a stone in about 3 knives with heavy reprofiling.

I tend to keep a bowl of water and a water swuirter next to the table. that way I can squirt off the stone/steel residue and let it drain into the bowl of water.
 
Last Visible Canary said:
same here with the 100 stones. I go through a stone in about 3 knives with heavy reprofiling.

I tend to keep a bowl of water and a water swuirter next to the table. that way I can squirt off the stone/steel residue and let it drain into the bowl of water.
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I usually set mine up in square casserole dish to catch the run off. :thumbup:
 
MD13 said:
I usually set mine up in square casserole dish to catch the run off. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

thats a good idea...


since I have no where else to post these - heres an example of how to do a fast convex edge with an edge pro:

three bevels, one at 10 degrees, one at 15, and one at 18
attachment.php


heres the 10
attachment.php


the 15
attachment.php


and the 18
attachment.php


after which you just sand out the edges, and you have a nice continuous and repeatably convex edge. this way, you know exactly what your cutting edge bevel is. I didn't want to hijack justabuyers thread, since it was hand sharpening only. I couldn't hand sharpen an edge if my life depended on it :(


this is a thin modified knife, so its a bit easier and faster to do this. I did something similar on a stirder mt, and it took me literally 24 hours of using 2 100 grit stones to get the main bevels set. it was pretty rediculously thick, and TORTURE to sharpen. the metal just did not want to grind off.
 
Last Visible Canary said:
thats a good idea...


since I have no where else to post these - heres an example of how to do a fast convex edge with an edge pro:

three bevels, one at 10 degrees, one at 15, and one at 18
attachment.php


heres the 10
attachment.php


the 15
attachment.php


and the 18
attachment.php


after which you just sand out the edges, and you have a nice continuous and repeatably convex edge. this way, you know exactly what your cutting edge bevel is. I didn't want to hijack justabuyers thread, since it was hand sharpening only. I couldn't hand sharpen an edge if my life depended on it :(


this is a thin modified knife, so its a bit easier and faster to do this. I did something similar on a stirder mt, and it took me literally 24 hours of using 2 100 grit stones to get the main bevels set. it was pretty rediculously thick, and TORTURE to sharpen. the metal just did not want to grind off.
Click to expand...

Good Stuff Man! That is another way to approach the elusive convex edge ;)

I usually just do one acute angle until it is pretty close to cutting edge. I stop there and finish the rest off with sandpaper or increase the angle with a finer stone to get a micro bevel.
 
attachment.php



without sanding it to smooth the transitions, you end up with something like that. I really wish I had more transition stones between 600 and the 3000 grit polish tape. If I could get an 800 stone, 1000 grit tape, and 2000 grit tape, I could actually get a really good mirror polish. not because a mirror/3000 grit polished edge is functional - just because it's purty.
 
I have the Apex model and you can get a nice edge on any knife in short order. I have the complete kit and have yet to use the higher grit papers...
 
Ban said:
I have the PRO model and it is super solid :thumbup::thumbup: I figured that if I am going to spend that much on a sharpening system I might as well get the best one ;) I have been happy with it since the day I got it which is probably close to 8 or 9 years.
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Picked up a Edge-Pro Professional today, should be here in time for the weekend. I figure its about time for me to pick up a beater knife and have at it.

Greg
 
VoxHog said:
Can you fit diamond stones to an EdgePro to speed up the reprofiling?
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In the DVD that comes with the Edge Pro the owner/inventor says that through his experiments, diamond stones do not work as well as the coarse ones he includes. YMMV but that is certainly what he says...
 
VoxHog said:
Can you fit diamond stones to an EdgePro to speed up the reprofiling?
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I don't know about diamond but there is a company (the same that Edgepro gets there stones from actually) that offers stones in more materials than I ever knew existed including ruby, saphire and over 1 dozen more, iirc. Now, if I can only find the link to the place, or at least remember the dang name, I'll actually be able to help you out on that.
 
http://www.timbertools.com/Products/SharpeningStones.html
http://shorinternational.com/sharp&true.htm


Bill DeShivs said:
yuzuha said:
Cubic boron nitride (CBN/Borazon) is recommended instead of diamonds for grinding steels (diamonds burn and dissolve into iron so CBN works better than diamond), but I hardly ever see it in hand or bench stones... only a few touch up tools for tungsten carbide cutters, like these http://www.titantoolsupply.com/tbhh.html

not sure why... maybe because there isn't as much of a heat problem with hand honing? CBN is also harder than things like tungsten, vanadium or silicon carbide so should not have any trouble with high carbide steels either, but I'm curious about the different handling characteristics (a diamond plate should have a different feel and cutting properties to a CBN stone)
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I have been involved with the jewelry business for many years. Diamonds are nearly pure carbon. I have seen jewelry grade diamonds heated to over 2000 degrees with no ill effect. In fact, they are often cast in place. Diamonds don't dissolve into iron- they may chip microscopically, but I don't believe you could dissolve one.
Bill
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Cliff Stamp said:
It isn't heating, but the carbon in the steel and the carbon in the diamonds, see for example "Modern Grinding Process Technology" by
Stuart C. Salmon.

"diamond, being a carbon based material, has an affinity for the carbon
in the steel and suffers accelerated wear by the dissolution of the diamond
into the carbon in steel, producing an iron carbide (Fe3C) with most
unsatisfactory results."

-Cliff
Click to expand...

from http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373943
 
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