Which folder is the Best?

thk2c said:
As you can probably tell by my post, I am a new member to this forum. The question I have for you is this: which folder is the best? I want a folder that is first and foremost a knife. I don't want frills and mother of pearl inlays with a fancy locking system that lights up and sings a song when it is engaged. I want a knife that is unparalleled and unsurpassed in quality and most importantly a knife that has unreal edge retention. I need a knife that will perform day in and day out and last a lifetime no questions asked. Money is no object. I need a knife that works, because when it doesn't, my life is on the line.
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Welcome!

At some point, if you use a knife, the edge will need to be re-sharpened. It is best if you re-sharpen before your knife gets too dull. You can learn to sharpen or have someone else do the sharpening. Some companies like Benchmade have a sharpening service for their customers.

"The best knife" really is difficult to pin down, because which is best partly depends on your needs. Some kinves may be very well made but too large or too small, the wrong blade shape, the wrong handle shape, or weight for your needs. There is also the question of the type of blade lock, or no lock at all that you find is right for your needs.

Even some very inexpensive knives can cut well. Some knives are just more interesting than others. So, which is "best" is often a matter of personal taste as much as function.

There are a huge number of knives available. It would help if you could give us some idea of at least the range of blade lengths you would consider.

I generally prefer frame lock and AXIS lock knives. Most of my folders are from Chris Reeve, Strider, Microtech, and Benchmade. Again, there many more production and custom folders available.
 
I find the Chris Reeve Sebenzas are some of the most "easy to live with" folders. They are sturdy, comfortable to use, not too bulky, and Chris Reeve has excellent customer service. They can replace blades or refurb the finish on the handles.

The Strider folders are well designed, rugged and Strider has a very good customer service. Many Striders have a rugged oxide coating on the blades. But, they also make some with a blade that has a stone washed finish, much like some of the Sebenza blades.

Small Classic Sebenza with black Micarta inlays
Large Classic Sebenza with black Micarta Inlays.
Strider SnG
Strider SMF
 
Here are a couple of my favorite Benchmade folders. The BM 710D2 may well fit your needs if it isn't too long (3.9").
However, there are many more Benchmade folders.

BM 943
BM 710D2
 
Opinions differ. Many of us have a couple hundred folders acquired while looking for the very knife you are seeking.

I have come full circle on knives. While once searching for the perfect knife steel that never goes dull and resharpens itself while I sleep if it does, I now have settled down to knives with good decent steel that resharpens easily. I use my knives a lot and have no desire to spend an hour trying to put a edge back on a knife that just doesn't want it. I like Spyderco, Kershaw, SOG and Buck folders best. The Gerber Gator in 154cm is another great one for people who really use their knives. If you are not going to use it then buy safe queens.
 
That works fine unless you are in one of our great states that frown on offending the sheeple by carrying a fixed blade of any size. Not a problem in the Dakotas but I have been places where it don't fly. Much better a good folder than nothing at all.
 
Twindog said:
Oh, and you ain't fooling me, Allen. That Military looks way more used than the 110.
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That's because I took the picture of the 110 when I first got it...brand new.

But I got the Military just recently in a trade here on the forums.
The scratches were already there when I received it....and it was somewhat dull too.
Obviously the previous owner enjoyed using it quite a bit.:thumbup:
 
Thank all of you for responding so quickly. I had no idea there were so many knives out there. I guess I should have been more specific regarding my needs for the knife. For about four months out of the year I work as a physician for MSF (doctors without boarders) in war torn countries. There the knife would only see light work everyday (i.e. cutting open boxes of medical supplies, etc.). During the six months of winter I work for a search and rescue company (REGA) in Switzerland where again the knife would only see light use on a day to day basis. The last two months of the year I climb. This is were a knife become imperative. Next year I am planning on trying to solo the seven summits (highest peak on each of the continents) in ten months. When you are climbing (especially at high altitudes on extended climbs) and you need a knife, you need it to work. If it breaks, your sunk. So, regarding the environment it varies every year. Also udtjim was right about not carrying a fixed blade. Many countries and states don't look favorably on people carrying fixed blades. Thanks again.
 
Don Powell said:
I would like some clarification. The 110 shown is the S30v heat treated by Paul Bos, is that correct? You say it outcuts the BG 42, that is saying a lot.
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It's not just a matter of one steel vs another steel...
I think the 110 cuts better for several reasons:
The high hollow grind makes it cut a bit smoother through most material in my opinion.
The handle of the 110 is about as perfect as one can have on a folder.
As much as I like the Military, the pocket-clip makes it a little less comfortable to use than the 110.
And, in my opinion, the weight (or heft) of the 110 adds to its cutting performance....kind of the way a nicely weighted putter adds to the putt swing, or how a nicely weighted bat adds to the baseball swing.
The Military is almost too light in weight, and I usually find myself pushing harder in a cut.

Being that the 110 is a lock back and the Spydie is a frame lock, perhaps the OP would appreciate some opions on the common locking mechanisms and and if they could be expected to last a lifetime.
I personally have difficulty imagining a linerlock or framelock lasting a lifetime, being used each and every day opening and closing several times.
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I somewhat agree, but nothing lasts forever.
And as noted above by Carrot, the Military is not a frame-lock, it is a liner-lock.
Regardless, either lock should last a long time with regular useage.
And both companies have a 100% rock solid warranty service department.
So, if the lock does become compromised over the years, I'm sure that either company would make things right.
 
The last two months of the year I climb. This is were a knife become imperative. Next year I am planning on trying to solo the seven summits (highest peak on each of the continents) in ten months.
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I'm glad that you elaborated on your knife needs.

Since you will carry your knife while climbing, I will no longer recommend the Buck 110.
I think that while climbing, easy one-hand access to your knife is a must!

Check out the Spyderco waved Endura 4.
You will not find an easy to open knife anywhere.
 
It sounds like you're looking for a real slicer. I think I'll have to recommend the Spyderco Military, in your choice of PE, SE, or CE blade styles. It consistently receives favorable reviews, and like I've mentioned earlier, there are Military's over 10 years old and still going strong. Obviously you may find at some point that you have either sharpened the blade to nothing or that the lock has traveled all the way over the tang and has no more room to "self-adjust" for wear and have to replace a knife at some point, but you can rest assured as long as Spyderco makes knives there will be a Military. But I wouldn't call any of that sort of thing "failure." The knife would still work fine, but the blade may be a little short and it may exhibit what we call "vertical play," where it wiggles a little, but the locking mechanism would still hold the blade in place. Honestly in your situation, despite my preference for folders, I would pick a fixed blade, just to eliminate the problem of lock wear and quick, easily accessible draw. To alleviate any lock issues, you could commission STR to make you a Spyderco Military with a Ti framelock and it would make the knife even safer, albeit more expensive.

The G10 handles make it excellent for use in all weather conditions, as it is grippy and tough -- I've yet to hear of someone breaking G10 on a knife. It resists most chemicals and the handle design makes it easy to clean -- the open backspacer allows you to rinse out the knife with ease, unlike many models -- none of Benchmade's models and few of Spyderco's models have this feature.

The blade is designed with a large opening hole for gloves, and the pocket clip ensures the knife rides high enough to get a solid grip on the knife whether you're wearing gloves or your hands are stiff from the cold. It is easy to open without much manipulation. The design of the liner lock also makes it a simple task to disengage while wearing gloves and it is pretty difficult to accidentally unlock the knife. Despite being such a large knife, it doesn't feel like one in your pockets, as it is light and relatively thin. It is truly, as the Spyderco website description says, a "survival knife," and should provide many years of hard usage, if not a lifetime. Besides, I think plunking down $120 for a knife every 10 years is not unreasonable? At the price the Military goes for and its light weight you can afford to carry a spare in a pack. I doubt there is any way you could destroy two Military's in a day.

At some point I had also considered recommending the Chris Reeve Sebenza Large Regular to you as the locking mechanism (framelock) is considered as fail-proof as you'll get on a locking folder. It features an open backspacer that again would provide for easy cleaning and the Ti scales are nearly indestructable (as if G-10 wasn't enough). My only concern is that the Sebenza was designed by someone accustomed to a warm climate, and so there are two issues: Ti handles are not the most fun thing to grip bare-handed with cold fingers, and the thumbstud won't be the easiest to use with gloves on (I'm sure it can be done). Fortunately the former is rectifiable by getting a model with Micarta scales and if the latter doesn't trouble you I would recommend it wholeheartedly.

I don't know exactly what climbing entails but if you need to cut stuff while dangling from a rope midair then you absolutely need a fixed blade, laws be damned. A tiny one such as a Spyderco SPOT, Emerson LaGriffe, or Hideaway Knife Utility. It is all too easy to drop a folder, either when you pull it from your pocket or when you draw it. A fixed blade has none of those problems. The Waved Endura or Waved Delica come very close to offering a proper solution as far as folders go but I'm not totally convinced I wouldn't drop one while drawing it. The only other solution for this using a folder is to get a special Kydex or Concealex sheath that allows you to stow your knife in the open position. Most any maker can do this, but you might want to consider the River City Sheaths (rivercitysheaths.com) Drawpoint.

When it comes down to buying your knives, you should check out New Graham Knives. Excellent customer service, great prices, and a good selection to choose from.
 
thk2c said:
Thank all of you for responding so quickly. I had no idea there were so many knives out there. I guess I should have been more specific regarding my needs for the knife. For about four months out of the year I work as a physician for MSF (doctors without boarders) in war torn countries. There the knife would only see light work everyday (i.e. cutting open boxes of medical supplies, etc.). During the six months of winter I work for a search and rescue company (REGA) in Switzerland where again the knife would only see light use on a day to day basis. The last two months of the year I climb. This is were a knife become imperative. Next year I am planning on trying to solo the seven summits (highest peak on each of the continents) in ten months. When you are climbing (especially at high altitudes on extended climbs) and you need a knife, you need it to work. If it breaks, your sunk. So, regarding the environment it varies every year. Also udtjim was right about not carrying a fixed blade. Many countries and states don't look favorably on people carrying fixed blades. Thanks again.
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Congratulations on all the good work you are doing! It's really outstanding. I hope you don't get too much frostbite on your climbes.

Maybe you should get a second, different knife just for climbing? What type of jobs will the knife be doing when you are on a climb?
Will you be using the knife while wearing gloves? Which knives do other climbers use?

If you like the Chris Reeve Sebenza one of the options available is to have Chris Reeve fit a second blade to your Sebenza.
You might want a part serrated blade for climbing trips.

Thanks,
Rich
 
thk2c said:
Thank all of you for responding so quickly. I had no idea there were so many knives out there. I guess I should have been more specific regarding my needs for the knife. For about four months out of the year I work as a physician for MSF (doctors without boarders) in war torn countries. There the knife would only see light work everyday (i.e. cutting open boxes of medical supplies, etc.). During the six months of winter I work for a search and rescue company (REGA) in Switzerland where again the knife would only see light use on a day to day basis. The last two months of the year I climb. This is were a knife become imperative. Next year I am planning on trying to solo the seven summits (highest peak on each of the continents) in ten months. When you are climbing (especially at high altitudes on extended climbs) and you need a knife, you need it to work. If it breaks, your sunk. So, regarding the environment it varies every year. Also udtjim was right about not carrying a fixed blade. Many countries and states don't look favorably on people carrying fixed blades. Thanks again.
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Sounds like you're looking for a single knife to be an every day carry, rescue knife, and climbing knife - tall order. Take a look at Spyderco Endura with a combo edge. Lightweight enough for climbing and everyday. It's also easy to open with one hand which I would think is important for climbing. Plus the blade shape is a compromise between a clip point and sheepsfoot - allowing you enough point to open boxes of life saving medicine but not so much that you couldn't use it for rescue.
 
Welcome to the forum thk2c! A lot of good advice here and nice folders, you could pick any of them and it should do the job. If you can go to a store that has these in stock, then you could feel them out for yourself, every hand/feel is different, I'd really suggest that. I hope you find what your looking for and good luck.
 
The two kives in this picture, along with everything else, are part of my EDC.
The kinves are the Benchmade full size Rukus and the small Rukus. The full size is my right hander, and the small my left hander. And yes, I am ambidextrous. I have a lot of knives, including the afore-mentioned Military. All of them are side-lined and the Rukus are my EDC. Possibly another type will take their place, but don't know. I really like these knives.
70d9ec2af5a431c41aed7f1ea7788be40_large.jpg
 
imo for your task I think the ZT0200 would best fit your needs. First of all, it is a TANK It has the strongest and thickest line lock I have ever seen! It locks up like a vault. It has 3D milled g10 scales that are nearly impossible for you hand to slip off if you are holding it right and the scales are not pointy so they don't hurt you hands. To top it all off the plade is insanely thick, sharp, and holds a good edge for a long time. Out of the knives I own I would without a doubt trust my life with it. It also has fast 1 hand opening with its fat thumbstud or flipper

Hope that helps :D
 
Q. Which folder is best in life, Conan?

A. One that cuts your enemies down, so you can hear the lamentations of their women!
 
This guys head is gonna be spin'n. Take your time, knife Bro. There is no rush.
Dogs of war, very funny quote from Arnie in Conan!! Outstanding acting!
 
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