Which is stronger corby bolts or doomed pins?

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Jun 30, 2013
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Now I'm guessing that corby bolts are stronger and are allot easier to get right but seeing as many knifemakers use both what I wanted to ask was if I used doom pins on a full tang knife would I be compromising the strength and resilience by using pin? assuming the pin was done right.
Thanks
 
I used pins on straight knives for many years and they weren't domed. When you put six in a hand try to remove the handle without removing the pins. I never had one returned or heard of one that had a problem. I sold a lot of those in the very heavy outdoor recreational area I lived in. Still, I did go to Corbys, but why? I figured they were better. Frank
 
I used Corbys for a little while but ground through the front bolt when shaping the scales near the bolsters...too narrow for the Corby bolt. I drilled out the bolt and finished the knife with a piece of stainless rod but I decided that maybe Loveless bolts would be more trouble free and I have used them every time I wanted to bolt a knife together. I certainly agree with Mr. Niro about multiple small pins. I like the way they look and I have never had a separation that I know about . If you use G Flex, Loctite, Acraglass, JB Weld, or similar epoxies and drill a couple extra holes in the tang and/or grind some cross hatched lines in the tang with a Dremel fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel the scales will not come off in my opinion. Use what you like and what you think looks best is my opinion but use good epoxy also.
 
I don't think pins are DOOMED to fail, but Corby bolts are better. Sometimes DOMED pins help with retention :)

Obviously a Corby will be many times stronger than a domed pin. The difference is about the same as comparing two boards bolted together to two that are nailed together. I use them in every assembly except when mosaic rivets are called for. They also take all the trouble of clamping up the handle during glue-up out of the equation. Just install and tighten snug, wipe off the squeeze out and check for any gaps. Re-tighten if needed, and set down to cure. No box of clamps and discovering that something slipped in clamping and drying.
 
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I love Corby bolts for their very high strength, ease of installation, and clean look. Just be careful about the sizes you order so you don't end up grinding through 'em into the threaded part. As Stacy said, if you measure/drill everything right to begin with, they're pretty much fool-proof.

When a client insists on mosaic pins only, like this:

tumblr_n1wn684bUV1t96crwo1_1280.jpg


... I actually use Corbies and mosaic pins, like this:

tumblr_n1wn6tUSpV1t96crwo1_400.jpg


... for the extra peace of mind of knowing there's a threaded mechanical fastener under the bling. I simply deepened the screwdriver slot and shortened the head on the Corbies, and cut off a little slice of mosaic pin to cap it off. Since I made that particular knife, I've found short-headed Corby's from Pops that make it even easier (they're also handy for trial-fitting/preshaping.)

Having said all that, I'm also pretty confident in properly domed/peened pins, or even straight pins if there's enough of em.

So it pretty much comes down to what you like and are comfortable with. Done right, all those fasteners will hold a handle together just fine.
 
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The question I ask myself... do I need more strength than pins bring? I presume there are many ways to increase strength, and many ways to increase cost. But do the really improve the end product? If not, why spend more?
 
But do the really improve the end product?

Yes.

If not, why spend more?
The bolts I get from Pops cost me between $1.85 - $2.35 per knife... hardly a big cost increase. In fact, considering the ease of proper installment, less hassle in general and the fact that it's almost impossible to crack/split a handle with them, Corbies are actually much less expensive.

Threaded fasteners of all types were invented for a reason. ;)
 
Certainly innovative how you can go to the mosaic overlay, James ! Very attractive , for sure. Frank
 
Thanks! I'd be surprised if I'm the first person who thought of that. :)
 
I completely agree with James that Corbys are not more expensive .... especially when quality and time are figured in the costs.
 
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