which is stronger, the Chinook or the Gunting?

B

Blizzard

Joined
Jun 29, 2001
Messages
20
Hi everyone, I am thinking of buying either the chinook or the Gunting after eliminating other choices like the SOG vision. I want to use it as a general purpose utility knife, so blade shape is not that important to me, I prefer a fixed blade for hunting anyway.

Is the compression lock on the Gunting just as strong as the lockback on the Chinook? Which knife do you think is the better bang for the buck?

Am I comparing vastly different design characteristics? IMHO, both knives looked like they were designed for defence.
 
They were both designed for defense as they are both part of the Martial Bladecraft (MBC) line. This means that both of their locks are rated at over 200 in/lbs per inch. You would have to be pretty evil to destroy the lock on either one. With that said, I would say the Chinook is stronger because of the beefier blade. Handle both and you'll see the difference in blade mass very easily.
 
Stronger Lock would be the compression lock on the Gunting
Gauge (thickness) of steel, the Chinook
BOTH are rugged.
The Chinook can achieve deeper penetration.
The Gunting is more adept at shallow stabbing.

IMHO, the Chinook is a tool. The Gunting a weapon. Though I've read from alot of Forumites of their everyday use of the Gunting.
John
 
Thanks guys. I have handled both knives before at the local gun shop, and the Chinook feels really stout. The Gunting, on the other hand, felt funny to me, the first time I saw it, I thought the hump was some kind of a tool adaptor. Thank goodness for the internet.

I like the Chinook but don't like the weight, I like the Gunting but don't like the hump, then again, without the hump, it won't be a Gunting. Actually, the choice is becoming more difficult, the more I think about it. I could buy both knives but then, I wouldn't know which one to carry.
 
Spyderco makes some other great knives. Strong, real functional . Maybe look at the Starmate, Military models.
John
 
Handled both, actually used a Gunting for a while. Unless you're a lumberjack and you want a backup to your axe, I'd go with the Gunting -- the ramp is actually really useful when you choke up on the blade, and you don't walk around tilted toward your strong side because of the weight.

One caveat: My advice will vary based on your carry method. I'm giving up on the Gunting because I don't like any of the available carry methods; I wear jeans without a belt, I don't like pocket carry (too much sticking out of my pocket), and I don't want to lay out the cash for an in-the-pocket sheath.
 
the lum tanto is hard to beat imho - but of the 2 mentioned i would take the gunting, the chinook is too heavy, might as well carry a SIFU, weigh about the same.......the chinook is a tool, the gunting more of a weapon imho - though the lum tanto has the only blade/grind any good for EDC (tanto blade) so if ya want a tanto, go w/the lum for sure......


sifu
 
Hi guys, thanks for all the comments. Well, I haven't had a look at the Lum tanto yet, will try to find it. I agree about the Chinook's weight, it feels very solid in the hand, part of the reason is the weight. It is going to be tough lugging it around everyday. The Gunting, is now my current choice, only thing that I am worried about is that the short blade may reduce its utility. I will consider the other models brought up in this topic. I am not familiar with Spyderco knives although I used a friend's military model for fishing before.

It looks like I got to do more research, the only thing I am sure of is that I want a tip down carry clip.
 
Ok..I've read this for a bit..
Guntings do not fall out of pockets..ROFL..
they stick in far enough..2/3rds are in the pocket.
They stick out so that they can be grabbed in tomahwak position..not as any other knife is accessed..and no they are not your stealthy hidden concealed pocket cutters..weren't meant to be..
Of course I don't care if my GUNTING is seen..
I can safely say its not a concealed tool..

You can use a TopR-Deployment holster on your pants without a belt..
of course I don't understand anyones not wanting to spend money on alternative carry systems..
I have multipul systems to accomodate what I'm wearing.



too small a blade? for what?
We've dressed down a deer with it..
butchered-dressed down a full size pig..
used it for daily stone crab work..cutting claws off , cutting trap lines..
people like Hugh Fuller use it as EDC carry for evey day tasks, such as in an office..
Used it on game fish here in Florida..We have some BIG fish here..
sail fish..sword fish..groupers etc..
its used by EMT-Paramedics to save people by cuting seat belts..breakig out window glass etc..


As for the ramp it gives great holding ability when skinning..
it allows for opening with slick or gloved hands..
it holds the blade away from the surface cutting..

and of course its self-defense applications..
I call it a self-defense tool..a full force continuum tool..
but first and foremost its a SPYDERCO KNIFE.

thanks for all the great comments!

PS: theres nothing wrong with a Chinook..its pretty cool tool..and if thats too much for your pocket..Skunworks has different carry systems for that as well....
 
While I can't wear my Chinook on my gym shorts, it's still lighter than any handgun I own. And much more versatile. All you can do with a gun is make a hole. A knife is a matter separator!
 
I use the Gunting for a utility blade.

I see the ramp as an advantage in utility use. One of the common injuries associated with knives is the stubbing accident, where the knife tip sticks in something and the hand slides up on the sharp blade. the ramp of the Gunting helps to prevent this.

You should not only ask about the strength of the lock, but its reliability. If the lock on the Gunting engages it is very strong. I have, however, had it fail to engage. In this case it is like no lock at all. It appears to happen if gunk glues down the movable liner. I have had many Spyderco knives, and the Gunting is the only one that has ever given me concern about the lock. I check my liner frequently now to make sure it has freedom to move.

Notwithstanding the lock, the Gunting is my favorite Spyderco. I just got a large Sebenza and am trying to figure out which knife I like better, the Sebenza or the Gunting. It's not an easy decision.
 
it seems like a matter of style to me. Personally, i fell in love with the chinook when i handled it. It's just so BEEFY
no offense Bram, i like the gunting too, but it's not worth it to me to learn the specialized techniques.

- Pete
 
Quote "no offense Bram, i like the gunting too, but it's not worth it to me to learn the specialized techniques."

Achem, Me thinks someone don't knows his maker history!!!

James Keating, who designed the Chinook is also some kind of self-defense specialist. He also designed an MOD folder. There are definely advanced fighting techniques that can be learned using the Chinook also. (can you say "back-cut").
Don't ask me for any more details, I don't know them, but don't think that this is just a nails tough knife, I mean, it is, but it can be much more also, if you take the time to learn.

:cool:
 
The chinook might be better as a camp knife for chopping things, skinning things.

The chinook is more discrete to wear, the gunting rides very high and is not meant to be concealed.

The gunting is the best small folding self defense knife I have ever handled, because it can be used as an impact weapon...a small knife may have killing power, but stopping power? You may need impact for that.

IMO, the gunting is designed to stab as well as cut. I believe the chinook is not designed for stabbing.

Stab the upper arm, rotate-cut out then smash the butt into the face, then cut something else again. It flows easily. Or use it closed to strike like a mini-hammer, then open it on the other guy.

Both knives are so strongly built that emersons seem flimsy by comparison, and the locks feel really strong.

I have no knowledge of JAK's style but I personally prefer the gunting to the chinook for self defence purposes.

But if I wanted a knife to take with me into the bush, I would choose the chinook.
 
I use my Gunting as a utility EDC, as I have said many times, and I will do so again as soon as things calm down enough for me to carry it in downtown Washington, DC, again. Right now, everyone, and especially the cops and the security people in my federal office building, are just to keyed up to want to risk a confrontation over a knife that, while legal, looks so intimidating. I have a Meerkat for "in-town" purposes, as well as the fact that it is a neat little toy.

We have worked the theories of Bram's design of the Gunting to death by now, so I shan't rehash them, but it surprises me that nobody here seems to know much about James Keating and his theories. He is the prime modern proponent of the Bowie Knife school of fighting, and has a number of tapes out on how to use a Bowie in a fight. Many of his demonstrations are done with Bill Bagwell's Hells Belle Bowies, and one of his best techniques is the "back-cut". I'll try to describe it from what I have seen in films and read, but it requires a really sharp tip and works best with a clip point, such as on the classic Bowie Knife. After you make your forward cut, using the regular edge, the knife is sort of cocked forward in your hand and your hand and arm are swung across to your off side. To affect the "back-cut", as you bring the knife back, snap your wrist so that the knife is cocked back toward the wrist instead of forward. As you do this, the point should rip across the target, causing considerable damage. From pictures that I have seen of what it has done to practice dummies, the Chinook, as it comes from the factory, will do truely terrible damage with a properly done "back-cut". If I remember correctly, according to an article that I read, Keating says that the technique is an effective surprise move, because most opponents will have no idea that you can do that with a knife.

To answer the question that those of you who have followed my posts are about to ask, "Why should a Quaker be interested in Keating's Bowie Knife fighting techniques?" Blame it on my childhood. I fell in love with knives when I saw Allan Ladd in The Iron Mistress and then the old Jim Bowie Show, so I have a fascination with the knife, with the man, and anything about them.
 
The problem I have with a back cut as you describe is that with an unsharpened back edge, the clip point will hang up if you encounter leather or even heavy denim.

The best back-cutter I have is a Jerry Hossom Millenium Duelist with a double-edged drop point. It slices just as well going back as it does on the initial cut, and it won't hang you up. Of course, that blade is 14" long, but...
 
Brian, the pictures to which I referred were in the test of the Chinook that was in Tactical Knives a couple of months or so back. I have never tried it personally, as I had thought that I made clear, as I am not into blade martial arts. As I said, what I am into is the Bowie Knife, and I have been for some 40+ years.
 
I can dig it, Hugh. I wasn't picking nits with your description, which I believe to be pretty much correct. It was more a comment on the back cutting style as it relates to clips and drop points.

I've just always preferred a blade that slides through the cut, relying on the edge, rather than one that relies on the point for a tearing action. It takes less muscle to be effective, and you have less chance of losing the blade in a snag. All of the force of a small blade snagging goes straight into your wrist, which, at least in my case, is not the strongest joint in the body (Limp wrist bastid!). On a longer blade, like a Bagwell or Hossom, it will travel up the arm more, into the forearm and elbow.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top