which millie next?

A few thoughts for thread consideration ...

Seems to me that the additional grip provided by the fluting is of huge benefit from a working & grip retention standpoint (especially in wet and/or cold condition when Ti is not really at its best from a retention and comfort perspective). Grip retention is why I prefer the RIL-G10 version of the Military so much (Ti frame lock one side with peal-ply G10 on pocket-clip side). Additionally, the weight reduction of half G10 makes daily carry much nicer imho.

Additionally, the fluted version is a fair bit lighter than the full Ti, and the profiled scales (similar to Slysz Bowie) feel nice both in hand and in pocket. Kinda like a CC (concealed carry) mod. that other mfr's do to some of their better selling models. I could however see how some may feel the fluted version is perhaps a bit too narrow for a hard use working knife ...? (Possibly what Sosa was eluding to in post above?) I am very curious to hear another fisherman's posting of view on this (Surfringo and/or ?).

Hi Spey, I can comment on the grip aspect. I used to use the regular ti version all the time cleaning fish and filleting mackerel. (I have nice fillet knives, i just like excuses for playing with my folders) I never felt any issue with the grip being slippery, even when covered in blood or fish goo. I guess the fluted version might have felt secure but I just don't thing its much of an issue. The regular ti is plenty grippy, and doesn't really seem to get much more slippery when wet. (unlike micarta, wood and g10) The excellent ergonomics of the millie also help a lot making it feel secure in most any conditions.

 
Thanks, still strongly drawn to this knife after recent conversion to the Military after 3 weeks of using a camo/DLC one.
 
Is the current fluted Ti knife hand anodised or as-is? I saw some older vids. showing them hand anodised.

The first production run of Fluted Ti Millie were heat (torch) anodized, and they had issues with warpage of the scales which resulted in dropping this production process as they turned to electro-anodizing which last about a year (I've seen a number of factory seconds of the heat -ano for sale in past years). It's my understanding they had some type of issue with this process also (possibly just that this was an additional process and may have been too costly ...?) and from that point forward it was natural Ti finish on all Fluted Ti Millies. To my knowledge, non-fluted Ti Millies have always been natural Ti finish.

Got to hand it to Spyderco CQI (Continuous Quality Improvement). The Military history is an interesting illustration of decades of incremental CQI. I wish "other" production manufacturers had similar self improvement standards.
 
Hi Spey, I can comment on the grip aspect. I used to use the regular ti version all the time cleaning fish and filleting mackerel. (I have nice fillet knives, i just like excuses for playing with my folders) I never felt any issue with the grip being slippery, even when covered in blood or fish goo. I guess the fluted version might have felt secure but I just don't thing its much of an issue. The regular ti is plenty grippy, and doesn't really seem to get much more slippery when wet. (unlike micarta, wood and g10) The excellent ergonomics of the millie also help a lot making it feel secure in most any conditions.

Thanks for the updated comments. Perhaps the issue I mentioned is more related to "cold" conditions ("wet and/or cold"). It appears you are in a more temperate climate. For me when it's cold out, smooth Titanium scales are much more slippery that textured. Perhaps this is actually more related to the cold skin on my hand producing less traction than the Ti scales (skin becoming less pliable when cold). And I definitely agree, the ergonomics of the Military play a huge roll in high performance of this package in field use :-)

Regards,
 
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Thanks for the updated comments. Perhaps the issue I mentioned is more related to "cold" conditions ("wet and/or cold"). It appears you are in a more temperate climate. For me when it's cold out, smooth Titanium scales are much more slippery that textured. Perhaps this is actually more related to the cold skin on my hand producing less traction than the Ti scales (skin becoming less pliable when cold). And I definitely agree, the ergonomics of the Military play a huge roll in high performance of this package in field use :-)

Regards,

Yes, I could indeed see the fluted making a difference in cold weather. Certainly none of that here on the Central American coast. :)
 
Spey - many thanks for taking time to write the text and produce the graphical illustrations. It is guys like you and several others in this thread that make this a welcoming, friendly, and informational site. Much appreciate it. I guess I was thinking that a screw on the lockbar would be there just like my ZTs.
 
The first production run of Fluted Ti Millie were heat (torch) anodized, and they had issues with warpage of the scales which resulted in dropping this production process as they turned to electro-anodizing which last about a year (I've seen a number of factory seconds of the heat -ano for sale in past years).

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this.

With the electro-anodizing, what happens after a year?
 
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this.

With the electro-anodizing, what happens after a year?

Maybe you have misinterpreted what I wrote ... regarding Spyderco discontinuing the electro-ano process. Nothing really "happens after a year" to electro-ano finishes (at least in my experience of the processes I have used). The electro-ano finish actually "seals" the exterior of the Ti from oxidation and adds durability from the process of growing a TiO (Titanium Oxide) coating on the surface with Titanium nanotube arrays that are the result of anotic oxidation. The thickness of the crystalline layer is what determines the color(s) of light that is/are reflected (the color our eyes perceive/see). I say "perceive" because the surface color does not actually change ..., just the color of the reflected light. A thicker layer of the crystals reflects a differing color than a thin layer. Think about the light from a crystal in sunlight, same principal (does the crystal have color? No, what you see as perceived "color" is the reflected light that escapes the crystal. The reflected light is part of the color spectrum of what the crystal(s) is/are shown (the spectrum of light cast on the surface).

Color anodized aluminum, by contrast, has colorized die added to achieve a color change (different process than for Ti, Niobium, etc.).

Below is a picture (just taken now) of a Millie I put together back in 2013, and also a image of generic examples of crystalline nanotubes under magnification. I electro-anodized this Millie Ti scale in early 2014 and have left-front pocket carried since I finished it. The scratches you see are from a zdp189 Dragonfly that I carry in same pocket as a money-clip and wear from general daily carry. The variable color spectrum you see is the result of variable surface crystalline thickness of the TiO. The bronze area (near the pivot) is thinner than the ice-blue & greens approaching the lanyard tube. The blues & purples near the middle are in-between (TiO crystal thickness vary from thin to thick on this scale based on how I applied the crystal structure across the surface). So, as you can see (in the reflected light) as the crystal thickness increases (from pivot down to the lanyard tube) the reflected color spectrum changes. Electrical input voltage, surface finish (b4 anodization), electrolyte solution, temperature of solution, water content in solution, anodization time, flouride and chloride content in solution, ph level & amount of dissolved oxygen in electrolyte, etc. all play a part in how the crystals are formed, their resultant thickness & configuration results how ultimately light is reflected (a few of the variables when anodizing Titanium).

In general the finish is quite durable. AND, after the finish develops (after some pocket-time and use) I think it nice to re-anodize at a lower voltage to "color-fill" any scratches, etc. This color-fill process can also be done after a stone tumble to produce a more varied finish. I am by no means an expert here and would appreciate anyone's corrections to my understanding of these things). In my mind, like a knife/tool design should be approached on intended use (handle design/ergonomics, blade shape & edge profile, etc.), so should the finish treatment of blade/handle/hardware. I suppose there are some who only car about looks - and that's what makes us all individuals ;-) Regards,

Ti Finish 2-yr Old-1 (image taken today 2016-01-27)
Previous picture (1st page of this thread) was taken 2015-01-10 when the finish was about 1-yr old (images fairly illustrate progressive change in surface appearance over time).
Ti%202-yr%20Old-1.jpg


Crystal1
Crystal1.jpg.png


Crystals2
White%20matter%201.jpg.png


Spey - many thanks for taking time to write the text and produce the graphical illustrations. It is guys like you and several others in this thread that make this a welcoming, friendly, and informational site. Much appreciate it. I guess I was thinking that a screw on the lockbar would be there just like my ZTs.

Actually, there are two screws and an indexing pin securing the lockbar insert to the Ti lockbar. Spyderco just chose to do a relatively clean job of not making the change visible on the outside of the knife (blind tapped fastener holes are an extra level of production finish that is appreciated by me :-)
 
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I have truly fallen in love with my M390 Military model>> i have the one with the digital camo which really grew on me as I used it>> and believe it or not I've gotten a ton of compliments on it :thumbup: I've had several Military models over the years and most recently I've had and used the XHP model which is a good one>> but there is something special about the M390 version that just takes one super wicked edge and holds it for a long time>> and it's not too difficult to keep it by just hitting it occasionally on my Spyderco 302 Ultra-Fine or even 302 Fine stone.

I'm hoping that Spyderco will make a Military model in this CPM 4V I've been hearing so much about. The C-36 Military has been around for many years for a valid reason>> it's just one helluva rugged folder and dependable and easy to maintain. I agree with SURF and I do hope they also cave in and do a SALT version of the Miltary in either H-1 or LC200N.

I think they should do the C-36 Military like they do the MULE fixed blade model>> they should make the Military model in every new supersteel that comes down the pipeline.
 
Personally I plan for my next purchase to be the 52100 Carbon Fiber whenever it comes out. While personally I'm a fan of Crucible's steels I'm looking forward to this one. While it's supposed to be more prone to corrosion it should hold a pretty good edge.
 
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