Which SE spyder to buy

P

phil000

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May 21, 2006
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I own all plainedge knives. Spyderedge really intrigues me however the only time I think I'd ever need it is for slashing the heck out of rope (I'm in technical theater and the issue came up yesterday to cut a one inch thick rope, I was rolling with my Native I and was nearly upstaged by a half-serr. dull gerber). So I certainly HAVE to have a Spyderedge blade (have to! :rolleyes: ). In lieu of the recent rescue style 2007 I figured I should ask this question...

So the question is: Which is better for slashing rope: Hawkbill SE, Curved SE (like Endura), Rescue/Flat edge SE? And which steels are the best for that?

I'm really liking the look of the new waved rescue and I know I WILL be getting one of the new spyderco autos, so please nothing TOO expensive...

I have the following spydercos:
Native I
Tasman
Centofante 4

I'm split between the Tasman and the Native, the centofante is just too thin for my work.

Thanks for the help,
Phil
 
From Spyderco's site:
The hawkbill blade shape originated in the marine/fishing industry where severing rope, line, webbing and netting is done at arm's length quickly and efficiently.

So, I'm going to say Tasman.
 
I want to keep branching out and learning more and more about different types of knives...maybe a harpy then?
 
Harpies are pretty sweet. I have a friend that packs one for boating chores. However, I have been very pleased with my Tasman. It's light, thin, and will breeze through 1/2" thick nylon safety rope with one swipe. Also, I opted for the yellow one. It seems to say "tool" more than weapon. Plus, since it is a not a "nice" knife like the Harpy, I have no problem in using it hard. As a bonus, that H-1 steel is amazing stuff:thumbup: If you keep it stropped often, then sharpenings come few and far between. I'm looking forward to Spyderco's new line up of H-1 offerings:)

Jake
 
I think everyone should have a fully serrated Endura, and with it coming out in ZDP-189....well....that should cut through anything. :)


Blades
 
Tasman Vs. Harpy, hmm, tough choice, do the easy thing and get both ;)

seriously though, it basically comes down to edge retention and corrosion resistance when deciding between the two....

Harpy pros;
VG-10 steel sharpens easily *AND* holds a killer edge for a long time
blade is slightly thicker than the Tasman
SS handle gives it a good solid heft
Cons; VG-10 steel can rust, it's rare, but it can rust (it took 8 days for rust damage to occur in my fog chamber test)
SS scales can be slippery when wet, and cold in winter climates

Tasman pros;
Thinner blade than the Harpy, more efficient cutter
lightweight FRN handles, available in nice freindly "I'm a TOOL!" yellow
WILL NOT RUST**!, PERIOD, END OF SENTENCE!
H-1 is *incredibly* easy to sharpen, and can get to an almost *monomolecular* level of sharpness
H-1 work-hardens, the more you use it and sharpen it, the harder the cutting edge gets, H-1 *improves* with age
completely maintenance-free, a true workhorse of a knife, can safely be abused, and used hard, no need to baby this one, use it hard and ignore it, it can take it
Cons;
H-1 scratches very easily, it's a working steel, not a "pretty" steel
H-1 does not hold an edge for as long as other "supersteels", it dulls quicker, but is dead-easy to resharpen, edge retention is around Aus-6/Aus-8 area
FRN scales are less forgiving of twisting loads





**I had an H-1 bladed Salt 1 survive *TWO WEEKS* in my *Saltwater Fog* fog chamber completely unharmed, not a speck of rust, the salt fog in the test chamber was so saline that it rusted a common "stainless steel" knife in a *half hour* (half hour for the first spots, visible rust patches in an hour, total knife failure in 6 hours), the salt water was created by hypersaturating *ROCK SALT* in water until the water could not dissolve any more rock salt, this stuff is *nasty*, and the Salt 1 shrugged it off without a complaint
 
For rope, I would think that a hawkbill blade would be most effecient. But they're not as well rounded for overall EDC IMHO. I'd go with the Tasman SE over the Harpy. Sure the SS handle on the Harpy might be stronger, but not so much that it would matter IMO. I'm the kindof person that wants different blades though. I would be hesitant to get another Tasman if I already had one version, especially if my budget limited me to one knife. Hows about an SE Military???? ooooooooo... awwwwwww....
 
SE Tasman all the way. Your rope cutting needs are exactly what the hawkbill was designed to do. Get the yellow handled version. Less likely to freak out sheeple since it looks less tactical. That is until you open the thing up and a Velociraptor claw pops out.:eek: It's an easy EDC due to its light weight and you will be amazed at it's cutting power.
 
I just picked up an Endura 4 SE and am very impressed. If I cut a lot of rope, I'd probably pick up a hawkbill. For sheer cutting power (plastic pipe, rope etc.) it's hard to beat an E4 or the Police model. Pocket chainsaws they be.
 
I have an E4 and would suggest that over 95% of other knives on the market (Spyderco or not). It is a fantastic knife and serves its purpose better than most. Good steel and a flat out reliable lock. I am never on/off duty without one. Now the wait begins for ZDP !
 
Great question. I had a SS SE Harpy and I found it lacking in many ways. One thing is, I work with oil sometimes (elevators) and the SS handles get so slick that it is really unsafe. The handle is not quite large enough for me. I wear gloves sometimes and with gloves, the handle is even smaller. The blade shape was good for a few things but not for the majority of things I needed it for. I need a tip that will puncture as well as slice. There is little if any puncture ability with the Harpy or any hawkbill.

The Hawkbill is one of the most specialized knife blades out there. Since it is curved inward, you don't get a slashing action when cutting rope or rags. If the rope is less than 1/2", it is not a problem but a Harpy is going to have a hard time getting through 1" rope with one cut.

I suggest getting whatever you want though, that is what I did. That is really the only way to see what works for you. I know that someone may have different needs from their knife. What is perfect for me, may not be very good for someone who does a different job.

I carry a CE BM 921 Switchback at work with grip tape applied to the handles to keep it secure. I have a Centofante 4 that works almost as well. I prefer a CE in my work knives and I prefer the Axis lock to the back lock. The funny thing is, this is my only Benchmade other than another 921 that I have as a spare and a Vex that I got because it was cheap. I have about 30 SPydercos and I generally prefer them for most tasks but in a work knife, I haven't found a better one than the 921 Switchback. I love how it not only opens fast but closes fast. That is where most back locks are slow, on the close.
 
I have not seen a pic of the new Rescue but I love the old Rescue. Anyone got a link?
 
Well you just can't go wrong with any of Spyderco's fully serrated Hawkbills. Also I have a few to recommend. First and foremost you just can't beat Spyderco's C-44 big Dyad which is a double bladed knife with one plain edged blade and one fully serrated blade. The reason I mention the Dyad right of the top is because that particular fully serrated blade has just the right amount of "belly" on it for great slicing/ripping action.

There are 5 other Spyders that I love in the fully serrated version and they are:
C-36 Military
C-54 big Calypso
C-14 & C-45 Stainless handled Rescue models
and the good ol' flagship Spyderco Police model ( G-10 Police would be best)
Good Luck and let us know how it turned out. JD
 
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