which Sharpening System ?

Joined
Jun 20, 2002
Messages
96
Hi,

I have decided that it's about time I got some kind of decent sharpening system. Over the years I have had a go at using arkansas whetstones freestyle (with varied success!) and have used a butchers steel to touch up a flagging edge but have yet to be able to put a nice mirror edge that is hair popping sharp on my blades. I know there are some great posts on the forum about how to sharpen. What I am interested in is peoples reccomendations for which system / combination they think is best.

I see a lot of Lansky products and there are lots of combinations. Diamond, Ceramic, Arkansas etc... does anyone have any experience with these ?

Also theres the Sharpmaker.....

Various Smith products.....

etc.

Any comments or advice would be very welcome.

K
 
I just got a sharpmaker. I think its great. I have never been able to sharpen a knife. Period. With the sharpmaker, I can make a relatively dull knife sharp to slice paper and shave hair off my arm in just a few minutes. Its also pretty cheap at less than fifty bucks.

I think probably its a bit difficult to sharpen big blades on it and from what I've read here, you can't really "reprofile" a blade but I wouldn't know how to do that anyways. I know that some folks here can make their knives scary sharp and I don't know if the sharpmaker does that, but it makes them really sharp and functional.
 
G'day,
I bought the DMT 4 Diamond Aligner system and really like it. Note that it is not suitable for very thick blades--the clamp doesn't open much past 1/4 inch.
I suspect that any of the clamp systems will work well although I highly recommend the diamond stones, especially on the newer harder steels.
Greg
 
I'm another sharpmaker advocate. Easy to use, quick to set up, no annoying clamps.

As far as reprofiling goes, it's just like sharpening, only more so. If your blade is currently ground at, say, 55 degrees, and you spend a lot of time on the sharpmaker until you eventually regrind the secondary bevel to 40 degrees, you have reprofiled the knife. Coarser stones make this take less time (because they remove material faster) and that's the only gripe I commonly hear about the Sharpmaker; the dark stones aren't coarse enough to reprolife blades quickly. Therefore, if you want to reprofile with a Sharpmaker, you gotta get some sandpaper or the diamond stones.
 
FoxholeAtheist said:
I'm another sharpmaker advocate. Easy to use, quick to set up, no annoying clamps.

As far as reprofiling goes, it's just like sharpening, only more so. If your blade is currently ground at, say, 55 degrees, and you spend a lot of time on the sharpmaker until you eventually regrind the secondary bevel to 40 degrees, you have reprofiled the knife. Coarser stones make this take less time (because they remove material faster) and that's the only gripe I commonly hear about the Sharpmaker; the dark stones aren't coarse enough to reprolife blades quickly. Therefore, if you want to reprofile with a Sharpmaker, you gotta get some sandpaper or the diamond stones.


Don't mean to thread jack. But how do you attach sandpaper to the stones of a sharpmaker. Thanks!
 
When I need to quickly re-profile, I stand a coarse benchstone (I use a Razor Edge Systems coarse stone) in the 204's V so that it is held with the long axis parallel to the stone it's leaning against. Works perfect for me!
 
I am another fan of the Sharpmaker.

I attach sand paper by wrapping the 4.5" x 11" sheets around the white Triangles and using the heavy spring type Paper Clamps to hold it in place.

Scott
 
I have most all the different systems and all have their pros/cons, however, IMHO the Edge Pro is the best and will sharpen basically any knife blade.
 
I used these plastic clip things to attach strips of sandpaper (aprox 1.5" wide) to the stones. I'm sure the metal binder clips would work just as well.
 
The Edgepro Professional is the best non-motorized sharpening system I have ever used.

The Sharpmaker is good because it is versatile and portable.
 
If you want the very best, get an Edge Pro Apex or Professional. The Sharpmaker is a very good system as well but the Edge Pro works better on straight blades, and allows you to get a set of perfectly even, polished bevels. It takes some practice, but once you've learned it you can put a razor edge on just about anything.
 
As a full-time maker I've used a lot of methods/tools to arrive at a sharp edge.

I just bought a Sharpmaker a few days ago and love it.

Several of my friends have the EdgePro. It is a wonderful system and definitely allows one to put a scarey edge on a blade. However, it's cost prohibitive for many folks...enter the big plus for the Sharpmaker. Since it's about $50 delivered from many knifesites...it's not too much for somebody to get one and try it out.

I wanted to get the Spyderco ceramic stones, but the Sharpmaker was cheaper than buying the different bench stones. I'm glad I did, because now I can see from using it that even someone with zero sharpening skills could use one to make a knife very sharp.

In a using blade, I prefer some tooth anyway (over a very polished edge).

Just my $0.02 :)
Nick
 
Another vote for the Sharpmaker - just very easy to use.
 
I've tried a kazillion systems!

First read the Razor Edge Book of sharpening. Keep what you like don't use what you don't like. The "Burr" part is the important part to understand.

EdgePro is great. Takes a little bit do dig out and set up and you wouldn't want to pay what one cost... but some day you'll buy one. For reprofiling NOTHING is better. Those stones cut like crazy with just water and they're not even diamond stones!

The Gatco/Lansky Diamond systems are great if you use the diamond stones and throw the oil in the trash. Finish with one of their fine non-diamond stones and leather strop.

Sharpmaker is fine as long as the angle of your knife is equal or less than the angle of the sticks. If it's steeper forget about it. You'll be rubbing those sticks until the cows come home and the diamond rods only help if the blade is thin and it's already close to the right angle.

Go to Razor Edge System's website (you'll have to search for it) and check out their guide that clamps to the spine of a blade. It's a decent method! Even though I have all this stuff, sometimes just using that clamp and a stone is easiest.

I must warn you. I used to be pretty good at freehanding it but after years of using these guided systems I'm not worth a crap freehand anymore. So if you're good freehand you might just consider buying nicer stones and enjoying/developing your talant. Sometimes I wish I had.
 
Your best overall bet would be a really coarse hone and a Sharpmaker. I'm a huge fan of the EdgePro, but the Sharpmaker will handle everything the EdgePro does and even more (potato peelers, nail clippers, fish hooks...).
 
thombrogan said:
Your best overall bet would be a really coarse hone and a Sharpmaker. I'm a huge fan of the EdgePro, but the Sharpmaker will handle everything the EdgePro does and even more (potato peelers, nail clippers, fish hooks...).

That's exactly what I do. I bought a DMT extra coarse diamond bench stone, and DMT's angle guide. It's sort of like the lansky guide, but designed to use with a bench stone. You clamp the knife, and slide the blade on the stone, while the guide slides on the table, maintaining the angle.

When I need to reprofile, I use the DMT combo to give it about 30 degrees total, then the Sharpmaker works fine to give the final edge.

Guy
 
Another vote for the Sharpmaker + coarse stone.

However, I really have to agree with Fulloflead: Sharpening free hand with really good stones is a wonderful experience and a skill you can take pride in. It can also give the very best results, but it is not the fastest or most efficient way to go about sharpening.
 
One more vote for the Sharpmaker and a coarse stone (I use a DMT coarse diamond.) The Sharpmaker has been my number 1 for years, so practice and familiarity has a great deal to do with it, but having a minimal set-up time and predicatable results egts me to take that extra minute or two to touch up whatever I'm carrying before I go out.

Chris
 
Denix said:
...and DMT's angle guide. It's sort of like the lansky guide, but designed to use with a bench stone. You clamp the knife, and slide the blade on the stone, while the guide slides on the table, maintaining the angle....
Guy

Guy,
Do they still make that? I was looking for one just a couple weeks ago and couldn't find one - even on their website.
 
Shann said:
Don't mean to thread jack. But how do you attach sandpaper to the stones of a sharpmaker. Thanks!
I have not tried this, but the big paper clamps somewhat like the ones on clipboards, could be used to pinch the paper on the back of the stones.
Use some 80-120 grit and it should go VERY fast.
 
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