Which stainless for guards?

Wow, I'm glad the OP brought this up. Thanks for all the replies explaining the machinability thing. I haven't worked with either series yet, but want to keep the option open for certain projects.

It seems I have a bar of 303 I'd be willing to let go cheap... :o
 
Dang I have been using 304 and 306 and thought (all) stainless was just a pain. I guess I will have to get some 416. :)
 
300 series seems to "chip" when you machine it, whereas 416 comes off in the litle ong twisty spirals almost like aluminum. I find 416 to be about as easy to work with as 1018. When you use 410 remember that it is not quite as "free machining" It will knock a tooth or two off of a bandsaw blade that has seen a lot of use.
 
John M Cohea said:
416 will not harden enough for use as blade steel. What Nick Is refering to is when you heat treat 416 it toughens up a little and increases the stain and rust resistence while still being easy to work and machine.Some of the linerlock makers will use it in it's hardned state for the lock side liner.It is cheaper than titanium,and easier to work:D
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John, how do you go about heat treating it for toughness and stain resistance?
 
Heat to 1000*F for 5 min and oil quench, temper 350 for 2hrs. thats how I do it anyway, there may be other ways.(do not temper above 400)
 
I forgot to add, that 416 is magnetic, which is a big plus because you can hold it with a magnet to surface it on a belt grinder or disc sander... and slap it on a surface grinder when you get one :)
 
When I was working as an engineer in the boating industry I learned that there are several grades to each stainless type in the 300 series. We were have problems with 316 hardware rusting in the field. Later, I found out we were buying the lowest grade 316 and 304 from China, 304 being the worst. I don't use much stainless on guards, but I would go with 416 if I had my choice.
 
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