Which Strider Axe/hatchet should I get?

So how much is a standard SOG Fusion Hawk?

How much extra will it be for a guy like your buddy to make a Ti-handle like that?

Seems to be the do it all axe, cut/chop wood for camping and smash just about everything else.

Why the holes and the para cord through the handle?
 
I believe you can pick up a SOG Hawk for under $50.00. They come with FRN shafts now I'm told. The handle I can't say about cost. The Ti is (6A14V) It was a ti-rod for a race car that was going to scrap. If I were to do it again I think I would go with Aluminum just to save weight. The holes are to lighten it up some and the 550cord is just cool!!! It also creates a better purchase for wet use... And it does CUT/CHOP/SLICE/BASH/and make great holes!!! I would tell you to contact "STR" here in the Makers Forum and see if he will work with you. Feel free to use the photos if you need to... I have more if needed. I have stated many times that the Hawk Head from S.O.G. has been Outstanding! It is a beast! It's just the shafts that fail. Even comes with a nylon head cover that I needed to mod with some pop-rivets so the blade portion didn't pop out and slice me. It's always in my 4x4 and I have had many people ask to use it here and there.
 
babakanoosh45 said:
Skip the Strider and try one of these... I mean, if you gotta have an Axe....

DSC03000.jpg
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As in most "hawks", the abrupt transition between blade and cheek sharply reduces the ability to split wood. If spliting wood is not on your list of functions for an "all around" axe, you won't care.

If it matters, a traditional axe head opens steel drums just fine -- and can split wood -- and other things.
 
i'd reccommend you buy an axe designed for cutting wood and camp chores rather than one designed as an entry tool for breaking doors. Unless you need one for your job etc.

wetterlings and gransfors both make exceptionally good axes for camping and hiking, and if you need to use them as a weapon they're still heavy and sharp.
 
Gransfors and, to a lesser extent, Wetterlings axes are optimised for softwood. That is not surprising considering the woods in Sweden. America, with its eastern hardwood forests, dictated a different pattern for best results. A "vintage" Plumb (or Collins, or Vaughn and Bushnell or Kelly) off eBay would work better here. We used to make excellent axes. :(

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/Fspubs/99232823/
 
The strider with the S7 striking surfaces is for fire and Police applications when your trying to get someone out of a vehicle and the Rescue with the Jaws isnt in scene it will crease a roof or get through a door etc. NOT MADE FOR SPLITTING WOOD!. S7 is what they make air hammer bits out of. I make 3 different Rescue tools one for E.D.C. another for the professional rescuer and another is a Hatchet except the striking faces and entire geometry is designed to get E.M.S. , and or Firefighter either into our out of a burning structure when your carrying someone an Axe is a pain to try and swing. All 3 designs are in preproduction with TOPS I make 2 versions of the Hatchet type tool one with S7 bits and one without. Not good for a campsite. Get one of those Gerber camp axes for like $30 Ive had one for 10 years no complaints.
Peace
 
Nathan Gould said:
i'd reccommend you buy an axe designed for cutting wood and camp chores rather than one designed as an entry tool for breaking doors. Unless you need one for your job etc.

wetterlings and gransfors both make exceptionally good axes for camping and hiking, and if you need to use them as a weapon they're still heavy and sharp.
Click to expand...

Thomas Linton said:
Gransfors and, to a lesser extent, Wetterlings axes are optimised for softwood. That is not surprising considering the woods in Sweden. America, with its eastern hardwood forests, dictated a different pattern for best results. A "vintage" Plumb (or Collins, or Vaughn and Bushnell or Kelly) off eBay would work better here. We used to make excellent axes. :(

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/Fspubs/99232823/
Click to expand...

Out this way I've had very good results using Gransfors and for similar money could have an more than acceptable fleet of Gransfors or Wetterlings to work with. Not much for oak or hickory in these parts. :)
 
cloudrunner0351 said:
The strider with the S7 striking surfaces is for fire and Police applications when your trying to get someone out of a vehicle and the Rescue with the Jaws isnt in scene it will crease a roof or get through a door etc. NOT MADE FOR SPLITTING WOOD!. S7 is what they make air hammer bits out of. I make 3 different Rescue tools one for E.D.C. another for the professional rescuer and another is a Hatchet except the striking faces and entire geometry is designed to get E.M.S. , and or Firefighter either into our out of a burning structure when your carrying someone an Axe is a pain to try and swing. All 3 designs are in preproduction with TOPS I make 2 versions of the Hatchet type tool one with S7 bits and one without. Not good for a campsite. Get one of those Gerber camp axes for like $30 Ive had one for 10 years no complaints.
Peace
Click to expand...

I had a post to this but it seems as it won't be productive. Carry on.
 
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