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I have a D2 skinner, and a CPM-D2 folder. Both have excellent edge holding, but i'd really like to get some CPM-M4
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Which tool steel is the best?: A2 vs O1 vs D2
- Thread starter troller
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Out of the three you listed I put A2 on the top by a good bit.
One steel you might want to take a look at given what you want would be CPM-3V at say 60-61 HRC.
One steel you might want to take a look at given what you want would be CPM-3V at say 60-61 HRC.
As a general matter:
1 - The easiest to sharpen will probably be O1, followed by A2 and then D2
2 - All will get plenty sharp. O1 and A2 would rank above D2. However, D2 will hold an edge longest, followed by A2 and O1.
3 - A2 and O1 will be tougher than D2, although CPM D2 will make up some of that ground.
4 - D2 will be the most corrosion resistant, followed by A2. O1 would be the worst.
But you're getting a whole ton of other recommendations because there is no clear winner among the steels you chose. And you have apparently eliminated a lot of steels that are much better, as many have mentioned.
In addition, there are a lot of other factors that are more important than the basic steel type. Heat treat is critical. Design geometry and ergonomics are also critical. I'd suggest you find a good knifemaker who has built a reputation for making the kind of knife you're looking for. And I'd stick with the steel they are most familiar with. One of the problems with looking for a "bushcraft" knife is that it is a trendy kind of knife now, and everyone it making them, whether they have any expertise with that kind of knife.
1 - The easiest to sharpen will probably be O1, followed by A2 and then D2
2 - All will get plenty sharp. O1 and A2 would rank above D2. However, D2 will hold an edge longest, followed by A2 and O1.
3 - A2 and O1 will be tougher than D2, although CPM D2 will make up some of that ground.
4 - D2 will be the most corrosion resistant, followed by A2. O1 would be the worst.
But you're getting a whole ton of other recommendations because there is no clear winner among the steels you chose. And you have apparently eliminated a lot of steels that are much better, as many have mentioned.
In addition, there are a lot of other factors that are more important than the basic steel type. Heat treat is critical. Design geometry and ergonomics are also critical. I'd suggest you find a good knifemaker who has built a reputation for making the kind of knife you're looking for. And I'd stick with the steel they are most familiar with. One of the problems with looking for a "bushcraft" knife is that it is a trendy kind of knife now, and everyone it making them, whether they have any expertise with that kind of knife.
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Same here. I have a Benchmade Adamas in D2. It was pretty sharp out of the box, but I re profiled it, and now it is shaving sharp, and has a mirror polished edge.
I think D2 sharpens very well, and it's not as difficult as some make it out to be.
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Have you already decided on a maker for for this custom knife? The reason I ask is all 3 of those steels (and others like 3V) could be made into a very capable scandi bushcraft knife, but some makers specialize and prefer working with certain steels and I would factor that heavily into your decision making. The notion of asking a maker who is a master of getting the most out of 01 to make a knife in D2 which he rarely works with, for example, doesn't seem like the best way to go.
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ha ha! I didn't realize it was a necrothread. I guess all those steels have corrosion by now.
1 - the easiest to sharpen
In my experience (and I use all three of these steels regularly), O1 is the easiest to sharpen, followed closely by A2, D2 is the hardest to sharpen and requires skill and the proper tools to get the level of sharpness the others readily achieve.
2 - the one with the sharpest edge when properly sharpened
All three can be made equally sharp, but again, D2 will take the most work to get there.
3 - the strongest (non necessarly the hardest)
A2 and O1 are both very tough, and lend themselves well to a Scandi grind; D2, with it's large carbides, often suffers from edge damage when the carbides are not well supported (as in a thin edge you might see on scandi bushcrafter).
That said, the D2 (with it's large carbides) offers superior edge retention compared to the other two, given a well supported edge geometry and a highly polished edge finish.
4 - the most stain/rust resistant
D2 is the most stain resistant of the bunch, it's chromium content puts it very close to the level of stainless steel.
That said, corrosion on D2, if allowed a foothold, can cause pitting.
A2 is a good balance, enough alloying agents to not rust too quickly, and corrosion is easy to remove if it does get a start.
O1 will rust more quickly the the others, but is still a bit better the simple carbon steels.
What I am looking for is the best steel (given that the knifemaker heats it properly) for a classical bushcraft knife with scandi grind, that has got to be:
1 - easy to sharpen
2 - when sharpened properly it has to be hair-popping sharp
3 - still very robust (doesn't need to be very HRC hard...)
4 - rust/stain resistant
Looking at your stated requirements, I think A2 would be your best option.
I would rate O1 second, with D2 coming in last.
Just one knife user's opinion.
Big Mike
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- Jun 30, 2012
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Nice post, very informative!
Let me say it another way. You do realize that this thread is 3 years old and IT WASN'T TERRIBLY COMPELLING EVEN IN 2010!!!
The fact that this thread has been revived at least three time this year show there must be some interest left in this discussion.
Big Mike
Bigfattyt
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D2 is the most stain resistant out of those. With a polish, in my use, it is pretty "stain less" It will take color, but it takes a lot longer.
A2 is not a stainless steel. It will rust, and discolor. But it it will be better than 01.
01 is also a great steel, but the most rust aggressive of the bunch.
of the three, if edge holding and stainless are higher on your list D2 (CPM D2 if you can find it).
For ease of hair popping sharp, 01 will likely prove the easiest to get hair whittling (though any of the three will get there.).
D2 won't be as tough as the other two, but unless you plan to do silly things with the knife, it won't matter.
I like A2 as well.
No bad steels in that group.
For hard use, and stain resistance, with ease of sharpening I do like INFI by Busse. It won't hold an edge as long as a lot of steels. But it checks the rest of your boxes.
A2 is not a stainless steel. It will rust, and discolor. But it it will be better than 01.
01 is also a great steel, but the most rust aggressive of the bunch.
of the three, if edge holding and stainless are higher on your list D2 (CPM D2 if you can find it).
For ease of hair popping sharp, 01 will likely prove the easiest to get hair whittling (though any of the three will get there.).
D2 won't be as tough as the other two, but unless you plan to do silly things with the knife, it won't matter.
I like A2 as well.
No bad steels in that group.
For hard use, and stain resistance, with ease of sharpening I do like INFI by Busse. It won't hold an edge as long as a lot of steels. But it checks the rest of your boxes.
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So True....